Adapt belt to sheave clearance
- Thread starter 98xjroks
- Start date
Cat new adapt is liking around .010
You can pull / add shims in the secondary to get the correct tolerance
You can pull / add shims in the secondary to get the correct tolerance
Unless I misunderstood the Question how will changing the shims in the secondary change the clearance in the primary?
9
98xjroks
Member
At about the 30-35 mile mark I started to get a little belt chirp at engagement, also the primary and secondary were very hot. This was mainly on the ‘18 800 as I was out in the powder.
The other Adapt is on my wife’s ‘17 800 with fewer miles and no issues but she doesn’t leave the trail.
After I got home I pulled both clutches to clean and inspect. This is when I discovered the belt to sheave clearance wasn’t as tight as I’m accustomed to. Clearance on both Adapt clutches are the same…
I had the sled over on its side panels a few times and noticed a little oil coming from the breathers on the clutch side which could have contaminated the belt and clutches causing the belt to slip.
I can continue to run them the way they are for further testing… I’m not seeing anything in the ‘23 service manual indicating the clutch can be shimmed?
The other Adapt is on my wife’s ‘17 800 with fewer miles and no issues but she doesn’t leave the trail.
After I got home I pulled both clutches to clean and inspect. This is when I discovered the belt to sheave clearance wasn’t as tight as I’m accustomed to. Clearance on both Adapt clutches are the same…
I had the sled over on its side panels a few times and noticed a little oil coming from the breathers on the clutch side which could have contaminated the belt and clutches causing the belt to slip.
I can continue to run them the way they are for further testing… I’m not seeing anything in the ‘23 service manual indicating the clutch can be shimmed?
Last edited:
Secondary shims are for belt alignment.
Belt to sheave you have to take the primary apart and add or take away shims under the spider. I usually try for .010-.030”.
You are correct I provided bad information- On the adapt it's easy to remove the spider to adjust sheave clearance... I had a blonde moment
I provided bad information- thinking belt alignment./ Ya shims under the spider - tough to do on the Team vs. the adapt.
F
favoritos
Active member
I wonder is something else is happening?
Belt to sheave should not make much difference in clutching temps. Have to admit that the chirp at engagement is a surprise. That usually means a pretty good clearance gap.
There currently isn't a simple method to swap a bushing and change the belt to sheave.
What breathers are you talking about with oil dripping?
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firecat225
Member
Im pretty sure its not as easy as one thinks to set clearance on the adapt. If your in need of less belt to sheeve, you actually have to machine the bearing upper collar to do this.
I do not know how these can be shimmed either, the spider base that threads to the post is an odd design and simply adding shims will do nothing but adjust belt clearance.
Only thing i could think of would be to make a shim to put under the actual spider between it and the base. But you would lose strength being there would be a space between the 6 bolts holding it to the fixture.
May need a custom fixture machined with certain amount of shim increments that would attach back to the spider with the 6 bolts
I do not know how these can be shimmed either, the spider base that threads to the post is an odd design and simply adding shims will do nothing but adjust belt clearance.
Only thing i could think of would be to make a shim to put under the actual spider between it and the base. But you would lose strength being there would be a space between the 6 bolts holding it to the fixture.
May need a custom fixture machined with certain amount of shim increments that would attach back to the spider with the 6 bolts
