Acceleration inquiring

[slighwilly49740]

Hey New here but reaching out for some advice. I just bought this 03 Polaris 800 Edge X long track. My last sled got from a snow cross buddy mode out and acceleration monster.
I'm looking to improve my acceleration without crazy or a expensive overhaul. Been looking up Helix's and clutch kits. Could use some guidance.

 

[BILTIT]

What gear ratio is in the chain Case?



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[slighwilly49740]

What gear ratio is in the chain Case?



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I have the new fluid I havent poppedmit apart yet but its fast just not pulling up the skis like I figured it would. Feels like it's set up for more middle and top end.

 

[whoisthatguy]

The picture looks like a short track 121" track that normally has at most 1" lugs on a stock track. If you want acceleration then you long track it with a 159" x 2" camoplast extreme track that requires new slide rails and a tunnel extension. I am not sure what kind of coolers are on that sled, but they may get in the way of longer lugs. Then you will have so much traction that you will need extroverts to engage the track with it ratcheting.

 

[slighwilly49740]

The sled has the cooler rails in the belly the tunnel. My buddy has a 2001 polaris 800 and the track is definitely shorter. It's not a edge not sure if that's why. As for hookup it looks like a 1" maybe 1 1/4" track with significant amount of studs. I still have to check what it has for gears. Was thinking change the gears or Helix.

 

[slighwilly49740]

 

[BILTIT]

The picture looks like a short track 121" track that normally has at most 1" lugs on a stock track. If you want acceleration then you long track it with a 159" x 2" camoplast extreme track that requires new slide rails and a tunnel extension. I am not sure what kind of coolers are on that sled, but they may get in the way of longer lugs. Then you will have so much traction that you will need extroverts to engage the track with it ratcheting.

A 121"?? Are you kidding me?? That does not look like a 121 at all. This is a 121".

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[BILTIT]

You can see the rail extensions in the second pics. My guess is its a 144", according to what was available for extensions. If they extended it but didnt change the gearing, that would be a big change in acceleration and feel.

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[slighwilly49740]

You can see the rail extensions in the second pics. My guess is its a 144", according to what was available for extensions. If they extended it but didnt change the gearing, that would be a big change in acceleration and feel.

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Literally just got off some power line rips. She gets it still. I've been looking online, 1 site referred to a 136 but I'm thinking it's one the 2 for sure the second 800 Polaris I picked up my buddy buying is a regular track.

 

[slighwilly49740]

Literally just got off some power line rips. She gets it still. I've been looking online, 1 site referred to a 136 but I'm thinking it's one the 2 for sure the second 800 Polaris I picked up my buddy buying is a regular track.

 

[slighwilly49740]

So I came across a identical sled so I think I have a 136 track.

 

[BILTIT]

Ya probably, would make sense with no tunnel extension. A 144 would most likely have a tunnel ext also.

Check your track like this.

Determining Snowmobile Track Pitch and Length - Sledtrack

Wondering what snowmobile track pitch refers to? Want to know how to determine the length of your snowmobile track? Then this page is for you.

sledtrack.com

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[BeartoothBaron]

I'd guess 136x1", FWIW. Should be enough track unless you do a lot of riding in loose snow, and even then you may not really want longer since that tends to keep the skis down more. I went from 136 to 144 on my RMK, and I was surprised at how much less it would "wheelie." On the other hand, in loose snow, more track will usually help with acceleration. I mainly went that direction to get stuck less though.

Anyway, putting the track aside, the big things that will help acceleration are gearing down and clutching. The EdgeX and XCSP were geared for top end (looks like 25/40), and you'll definitely gain off the line by gearing down. I'd start by finding the sprockets and chain from a RMK (19/39 and 21/41 were most common), or you could just buy new pieces. The 19/39 is a 28% gear reduction, which should make for a nice kick in the pants. Top speed is around 80 with 19/39 and 9t drivers – plenty fast to my mind, but again, I'm more into the off-trail stuff. If you're thinking of gearing and clutching, I'd say gear down first. A big gear change will affect clutching, assuming it's good to start with. For clutching, either start stock and experiment, or see if anyone still sells a setup that sounds promising. Lastly, if that doesn't give you enough, I'd keep an eye out for a pipe. I've read SLP's pipe was worth some real HP on those. Reeds might also give you a little; lots of guys put "big air" kits on those too. Still, gear and clutch are going to make be the big difference-makers, IMO.

 

[prox660]

before you gear down, helix down to pull out of the hole......46-34F, blue-silver or blue-orange secondary spring, 140-310 pri with 64g weights.

 

[summ8rmk]

if u like hitting 90mph, i wouldn't gear it down.
I had an old MXZ that i extended to a 144. It pulled hard and still ran 90mph.
Clutching will make or break a sled.

U need to find out why its not accelerating.... is it poor performance from the engine or track?

If it's the track, engine/ clutching mods won't help as much as suspension/ track mods. U can tune in more ski lift to get the track to hook up a little better. If ur skis stay planted, u don't have the weight transfer needed to maximize traction and acceleration.

Sent it

 

[BeartoothBaron]

Should go without saying, but check everything over and fix any issues before you start spending money on new bits and pieces. There's a laundry list of stuff that could need attention on a sled this old, and if that's the case, fixing those will make more difference than gearing and clutching. That said, it was mentioned that the last sled came from someone who did snow-cross, so it could just be the difference between a sled dialed in for acceleration and a stock setup, and pretty good chance the gearing was lower on that. I still say if acceleration is the ultimate goal, a gear down should be on the shopping list. You will lose top end, yes, but you'll have nothing but gains below 60MPH or so. RMK gears are a drop-in and easy to find used (found 19/39 sprockets and 72t chain on eBay for $45), so even if you go back, you're out a lot less money than a new helix or weights. Just my .02.

 

[slighwilly49740]

Should go without saying, but check everything over and fix any issues before you start spending money on new bits and pieces. There's a laundry list of stuff that could need attention on a sled this old, and if that's the case, fixing those will make more difference than gearing and clutching. That said, it was mentioned that the last sled came from someone who did snow-cross, so it could just be the difference between a sled dialed in for acceleration and a stock setup, and pretty good chance the gearing was lower on that. I still say if acceleration is the ultimate goal, a gear down should be on the shopping list. You will lose top end, yes, but you'll have nothing but gains below 60MPH or so. RMK gears are a drop-in and easy to find used (found 19/39 sprockets and 72t chain on eBay for $45), so even if you go back, you're out a lot less money than a new helix or weights. Just my .02.

 

[slighwilly49740]

Yes bout to clean out the variable exhaust valves, just ordered chain case gasket. Definitely want more acceleration than top end. I'll shop those gears too. Thank you

 

[whoisthatguy]

Slow wind up is often due to damaged crankshaft bearings, in my experience. It may be an interior or even the mag side bearings that are getting sloppy. The Edge Liberty engine was also built without an oil drain hole to the PTO side bearings, from the cylinder area. Which is one reason why the PTO bearings tend to go first, but not always. The Mag side and PTO side bearings can be bought as singles and changed with minimal tools, which is what I always do when I buy a used crank. Another bearing that tends to blow and slows the acceleration, is the drive axle bearing on the PTO side. It has a xerk fitting that riders often forget about greasing, causing it to self destruct. When the speedometer stops working, that bearing has detonated and shifted inside of it's housing, causing the speedometer pin to shear off. I bought a sled that had that issue, amazingly.