• I am getting worn out moving your "For sale" threads, including loosely veiled sales pitches for "How much is it worth) or Wanted to buy to the swapmeet.

    I will no longer be moving them for you as I have been in the past.

    Some days are 20 per day.

    If I see it, it will get deleted.

    I try to help you...please try to help me.

    Thanks.
  • I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.

    A Group Buy here on SnoWestOnline.com would be a situation where a normal member (non vendor or mfg) personally collects orders from other members. That member then uses those orders to negotiate a better price with the Vendor/Mfg for HIS/HER "Group" of buyers.

    Here is an example of a viable "Group Buy"

    http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269222

    A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.

    If a members wants to become a group buy manager, maintain a thread and collect the funds and negotiate a group buy... as a member, you are welcome to do that as long as you are not attached to the business of the vendor or Mfg.

    If you are a vendor/MFG and you want to offer an EXCLUSIVE "SnoWestOnline ONLY" promotion that is exclusive to snowest readers, please contact me and you'll be able to put it up in the Polaris forums.

    Also, before any vendors/mfgs get all "riled up" over this know that the moderators are strictly volunteers and do not receive a dime from any advertising $$ spent on this site.

    As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.

    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.

    MH

99 RMK lights keep blowing

Dec 11, 2017
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I have a 99 RMK that the lights keep blowing out, I have replaced the regulator with a after market part, It take less that a few minutes for them to go out, also the high beam indicator glows dim until I bring my RPM's up, also the tach doesn't work. I have taken the seat off to eliminate the rear wiring.
 

retiredpop

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Get hold of a voltmeter so you can read the voltage from a yellow wire to ground. It should be no more than 15 VAC with the regulator connected and motor revved up to 3000 rpm or so. The tach runs off the lighting voltage. Usually it doesn't blow when the regulator goes bad.
 

retiredpop

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Also make sure the ground where the regulator is bolted to is clean and corrosion free as it is the ground reference point for the regulator. I usually put a star washer on it so it gets a good bite onto the regulator.
 
Dec 11, 2017
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Ok, so I put on the new updated style regulator and made sure it was grounded,checked the voltage. Still over charge,I even tried a led bulb rated at 12-24v and it still flicked and burned out, the tach is working intermittent,volts are 8 idling but are as high as 30 at higher rpm,did I get another bad regulator?
 

retiredpop

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It sure sounds like it or else there are some wiring issues. You should never see more than 15 VAC at higher rpm. Make sure the harness side of the connector for the regulator is good. Check right at the connector for the AC voltage. I have had new regulators go bad after a short period but not usually right away.
 
Dec 11, 2017
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Ok, I did some more checking, I had my volt meter on AC not DC so on DC I get no voltage at the headlight or at the regulator but I am still getting lights for a little while from somewhere, I’m guessing my lighting coil is bad, so it’s built into the stator but is separate from the ignition system part but must be replaced as one unit? Is there a way to test it?
 

Merlin

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The lighting circuit is AC not DC. Your meter needs to be set to VAC to test the voltage of that circuit. Like retiredpop mentioned, you should have no more that 15 VAC otherwise you'll continue to burn out the lights.

Someone with a schematic will hopefully post resistance values for the lighting coil. It won't hurt to check this but given the problem you're having, which appears to be overcharging, I doubt you'll find anything wrong.

It seems you have either gotten a dud new voltage regulator or the regulator itself is not properly grounded. I'm not sure how that machine is wired but there could be a ground fault between the stator & the chassis yet the ground to the lighting circuit is still intact.

That's where the schematic would come in handy.....

Ok, I did some more checking, I had my volt meter on AC not DC so on DC I get no voltage at the headlight or at the regulator but I am still getting lights for a little while from somewhere, I’m guessing my lighting coil is bad, so it’s built into the stator but is separate from the ignition system part but must be replaced as one unit? Is there a way to test it?
 

mountainhorse

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This is a super simple system.



Are your grip heaters functional?

Tail Light functional?

AC-Voltage test should be done with these loads on.

Check ground of the regulator...the regulator MUST be firmly attached to the chassis of the sled.

Is the engine ground (brown wire) clean of corrosion, not frayed, tight and well attached to the chassis under the nut/bolt of the voltage regulator.

Which voltage regulator do you have?
The original one in this video...or the new one in the video?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFQMgr9KD54

<iframe width="800" height="450" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/uFQMgr9KD54" frameborder="0" gesture="media" allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>







.
 
Last edited:
Dec 11, 2017
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Thanks for all the info!!! I have the new style regulator, check the wiring back to the regulator and found the connector is all messed up where it comes out from the stator, looks like it’s been hot, hooked up everything temporary and now getting the correct voltage just have to make me a new connector
 
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