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850 N/A Clutching?

Ox

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I have been a Putz about getting my clutching right. Been running low R's in the west, and being carefull not to over-rev when going north.
Need to try and git it better.

I am guessing that the OEM is set-up for 8K?
I have it geared down to 174 gears. (165" sled)

We are riding from 10-12K.
I have it clicked to 5. Doesn't seem to be a 6 on this new clutch?
I can hit 7600 @ 9500' trail, but only topping the hills at 12K at 7000.
In all honesty, the only time it is held to the bars at all is 11K +
Not very likely to over-rev lower.

I looked at the fiche, and there doesn't seem to be choices on those parts.
Is there an OEM clutching kit to edit the elevation?
Or doo I need to go aftermarket?
 
Last edited:

Ras74

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Skidoo offers a high elevation which I’m sure is currently in your sled. Personally I would give John a call over at sled head racing and get a clutch kit his set up is very adjustable. It always you to adjust for elevation in a matter of minutes.


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C
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Based on what I have read on this forum, I just put an Ibackshift kit in my 2022 N/A 850 summit. I have only ride it once since @ 2000' so I have little anecdotal evidence to go by but it DOES pull like a freight train, so much so that it caused an "oops" that I am still recovering from. Better than stock even when I had the stock clutching dialled in. Looking forward to riding it at altitude
 

Dynamo^Joe

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We are riding from 10-12K.
I have it clicked to 5. Doesn't seem to be a 6 on this new clutch?
I can hit 7600 @ 9500' trail, but only topping the hills at 12K at 7000.
In all honesty, the only time it is held to the bars at all is 11K +
Not very likely to over-rev lower.
1 gram = estimated 200 rpms
0.5gram = estimated 100 rpms.
1 clicker change = estimated 200 rpms
Every 1000 feet elevation increase, engine loses 5hp
1 gram weight reduction for every 1000 feet elevation increase
200 rpms below rated rpms is estimated 5hp [in real world not on dyno]

You could roughly conclude 1 gram = 5hp, 1000 feet = 5hp(up or down)

Logic statement..
IF you have 7600rpms at 9500' and need 8000 rpms, THEN you need to lighten the weight to get 400 rpms back.
1 gram = estimated 200 rpms, THEN reduce your pivot bolt 2 grams.

9500/10500 [11000] 11500/12000
I would say you need to set your weight for 11000 feet.
Then you should have approximately 10000 to 12000 feet and not really have to touch the clicker to be in the 7900+/- 100 rpms.

To troubleshoot your engine, I would put your stock muffler back on - remove the can for now. This is so you know your exhaust will have the correct back pressure.
Make sure your y-pipe bolts are tight. Make sure the temperature probe on the mid pipe is tight. The exhaust can't have any leaks at the sockets, check for broken exhaust springs, like one is missing.
Run a new stock skidoo 571 belt. [if you are running an aftermarket belt, they are much softer durometer and will suck rpms down 200 to 400 rpms just based on the durometer]
Have a set of pivot bolt weights so that you can be at 11000 feet and drive the sled there, full throttle and adjust the pivot bolt grams to get 8000.
 

Ox

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I have watched a few vids as well.
Just learning the tuning components on this new clutch. (other than the spring(s))
Looks like the bolt is the new "pin".
I see that they have added weights to the bolt for other apps, and apparently I need to remove some bolt to go the other way?
Apparently that is where the grams come and go from?


Joe - not sure if you are mixing up your stories or if you are talking to someone else, but I don't have a can on mine, and I have the stock belt.
 
C
Mar 15, 2018
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I have watched a few vids as well.
Just learning the tuning components on this new clutch. (other than the spring(s))
Looks like the bolt is the new "pin".
I see that they have added weights to the bolt for other apps, and apparently I need to remove some bolt to go the other way?
Apparently that is where the grams come and go from?


Joe - not sure if you are mixing up your stories or if you are talking to someone else, but I don't have a can on mine, and I have the stock belt.
You can play with the pins, weights and springs but that will only get you so far. With Joe's kit you get all that PLUS a better helix and "Popeye arms" as well as, what I suspect is THOUSANDS of hours of testing/proving. You can spend all winter changing springs and weights/pins searching for a good combo and still never match the backshift kit that you can just buy, install and ride. JMO
 

Ox

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I know Joe and John, and their abilities.
My question is more surrounding whether or not Doo has an OEM kit for the higher elevations or not?

The answer seems to be "no".
OK.

I will likely dink with it a bit on my own first.
I may hit a "close enough for who it's for" spot myself. (?)
I know my other options.
 

Dynamo^Joe

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Joe - not sure if you are mixing up your stories or if you are talking to someone else, but I don't have a can on mine, and I have the stock belt.
Howdy. Most people run downtown and fkin near break their foot off the gas pedal to "i gotta git me a can". Sorry i assumed you had a can on. Regardless, when one has to chase around a fluctuating engine speed, if one has a can, I always say "go put the stock muffler back on" to eliminate a possible input......to fluctuating engine speed. I was doing more of a public service announcement, hahaha
 
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