• I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.

    A Group Buy here on SnoWestOnline.com would be a situation where a normal member (non vendor or mfg) personally collects orders from other members. That member then uses those orders to negotiate a better price with the Vendor/Mfg for HIS/HER "Group" of buyers.

    Here is an example of a viable "Group Buy"

    http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269222

    A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.

    If a members wants to become a group buy manager, maintain a thread and collect the funds and negotiate a group buy... as a member, you are welcome to do that as long as you are not attached to the business of the vendor or Mfg.

    If you are a vendor/MFG and you want to offer an EXCLUSIVE "SnoWestOnline ONLY" promotion that is exclusive to snowest readers, please contact me and you'll be able to put it up in the Polaris forums.

    Also, before any vendors/mfgs get all "riled up" over this know that the moderators are strictly volunteers and do not receive a dime from any advertising $$ spent on this site.

    As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.

    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.

    MH

850 clutching

TRS

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Primary is already starting to grove from the 3211216 belt at 200 miles. I’m going to knock the top cog back on the belt to mirror the belts of old. Bean counters may have got to us again.
 

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Norway

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Can you shed some light on this.... in a Full progressive helix your never are in the first and last angles. As soon as you move your out of the 42 angle and your never completely shifted out so you wont use the 32 angle. So, your suggesting that a 41-33 shift out with lighter weights is achieving better results?
Yes the Secondary spring is much lighter, (125-175) but the lighter weights and stock spring (120-320) wont allow more primary pull as you have gone backwards on effective primary shift out..
Em I missing something here?
Polaris turbo section, TRS clutching part 1-4. Read it and see if you can get on board with the concept?

Tony: sorry to hear about your back. Mine is starting scare me.. and I'm just pushing 45.
Get better!

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revrider07

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I've seen the same grooving from the 8dn belt from Yamaha on the triples. That belt was also hard as a rock. Went through several clutch sheaves on a 1180 union bay. One actually flew through the hood at 9000 rpm. It was hard to get a bite on the belt also. The gates belt was softer but could not hold the power either of that motor.
 

kanedog

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That's groovy man!

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Well, 499 CAD is only like 360 US, so not much of a difference there. I guess should have been more specific. The results were achieved at 7000 feet in 24-26 inches of fresh snow on a good base. Climbing long pulls where ground speed was no more than 5-6 mph, and would hold 47-48 mph track speed. If ground speed increased so did track speed, but thats not how I calculate REAL track speed.
Lets see some video of a 2012 pro getting that track speed in deep snow.....
The 850 only gets 40-41 mph track speed stock.
Is that track speed with a 155 2.6 or a 163 3”, I’m only pulling 40 mph with my 163 3” but I’m trying to figure out a setup on a team tied secondary
 

sledhead9825

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Red800. Have you taken into consideration speedo inaccuracy with the Pro gears?
 

Reddragon800

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Red800. Have you taken into consideration speedo inaccuracy with the Pro gears?
Yes, the stock gears are 22/43 = 1.95
Pro Gears are 21/44 = 2.10

This a 7% gear down. The gauge would read 50-51 mph. But that wasn't the actual track speed. Its was closer to 47-48 mph.
Its about 3.5 mph difference from what the gauge says
 

kanedog

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Yes, the stock gears are 22/43 = 1.95
Pro Gears are 21/44 = 2.10

This a 7% gear down. The gauge would read 50-51 mph. But that wasn't the actual track speed. Its was closer to 47-48 mph.
Its about 3.5 mph difference from what the gauge says
2.10 ratio w/7 tooth at 1-1 is about 77mph/123kmh.
At 40-50mph the belt is riding on a little more than half way up on the primary sheave. This is about a 2-1 ratio.
1-1 is most efficient according to Olav Aaen. Why not get the clutches to run at 1-1?

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tdbaugha

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The bottom end suffers from the straight 42 helix and a belt thats too hard. The 2016 axys belt is still not the answer.

A muti-angle helix is required to get the snap back in the bottom end along with a softer durometer belt and softer secondary spring.
Never said I was running the old Axys belt. And no you don’t need a steep multi angle helix to get good bottom end.
 

tdbaugha

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As soon as you move your out of the 42 angle and your never completely shifted out so you wont use the 32 angle. So, your suggesting that a 41-33 shift out with lighter weights is achieving better results?
"Relatively steep" It's clear your helix is steeper than a 42-32f

Yes the Secondary spring is much lighter, (125-175) but the lighter weights and stock spring (120-320) wont allow more primary pull as you have gone backwards on effective primary shift out..
TRS clutching shifts out more than any clutching that I know of.

Em I missing something here?
TRS and Indy Specialty (very similar) clutching are very well regarded for performance and increasing belt life. It is well documented on here and hundreds, if not thousands of people run it with success.

There's more than one way to skin the cat though; I'm sure your method works as well.
 

Reddragon800

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One thing i forgot to ask was what elevation is the 66 gram weights for? I have been testing in 6-8000 feet.
In theory, less primary weight will have less pull or squeeze on the belt. I do understand that the softer secondary spring will make up for that difference. However, leaving the stiffer primary spring will again offset that difference. Again, in theory it will hit a limit to how much it can shift due to the lighter weights and stiff primary spring. I would think that it would be more efficient to go to a 120-310 or 120-300 to allow the lighter weights to have adequate pull at full RPM.
 

damx

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Has anyone tryed the TRS clutching on the 850 in the 2000-4000 elevation range?
 
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If my memory serves me correctly in order to run in 1:1(full shift) hillclimbing your sled would have to be geared for a top speed of roughly 45 MPH. I can't find my clutching efficiency breakdown but I believe the difference in efficiency between 2:1 and 1:1 was negligible like 1 or 2%.
 

TRS

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The 850 is fairly simple to get c to c and leadin corrected. But you will need access to a mill. This one ended up at 11.5” c to c with .028” leadin.

Edit:
Andrew McDonald please send me a PM. Your package came back as unclaimed freight.
 

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sanderson

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Carls Clutching

Has anyone tried Carls clutch kit on there 850 ? Looking for some reviews
 
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