I'm rebuilding the motor for my 2004 RMK Vertical Edge 800 159", and was wondering about the torque arm and push arm available from SLP. I bought the sled with the wrecked motor this summer, and it looks like the PTO side exhaust manifold (SLP twins) gasket leaked on the bottom side, so the piston went lean and dissintegrated, taking out the rod bearing as well. So the crank doesn't appear to have suffered the typical big block crank woes, but I don't want them to start. I'll be using an engine plate, and have already replaced the torn front PTO motor mount. Just wondering if the plate should be enough to lock the motor down or if I need to get the other engine limiters as well. I may fabricate my own as I'll have about 3 weeks time in MN to use the family fab shop before I head back to school in CO (not that it would take 3 weeks...).
I went with Wiseco pistons, and I will be very careful to correctly set the ring gap and make sure to have adequate piston/cylinder clearance as well as warm the sled up completely before every ride (already have that habit). I'll be sending my clutch to IndySpecialties for his comprehensive clutch (blueprinting?) job. The decompression holes in the cylinders are welded shut too.
Just rebuilt the waterpump, cleaned carbs (checked to make sure they're set fat enough to start with too-340 mains for now), replaced recoil rope, replaced EV bellows and installed new yellow SLP springs. I'll be running 19/43 gearing and otherwise stock chassis. The sled came with SLP air intake kit and twin pipes (with the stinger cans...hopefully not too loud- yeah right). Just put the skid back in after going through all the pivots and installing new hyfax.
I'll be riding from 9k to 13k, though most time will be spent from 10 to 12k. I'll be running the clutch setup that came with the sled first, and going from there: 10-62 weights, black/green spring (Polaris) in primary; 58-40-46 ER helix with a red/black spring (SLP) in the secondary, running a new 080 belt.
Do you all recommend extra venting for the clutches? Do most dealers provide cylinder honing services? The mag side cylinder looks good (no chips in nicasil and no scoring), but its just about free of any cross hatching at this point and I only have a ball hone.
I would love to buy an IndySpecialties bottom end, as it seems to me the only true fix for the 800 crank engineering mistakes. But, as a student, I don't think I can swing the $1800 price tag and still be able to eat (or buy beer). Has anyone ever used a USA Shortblocks bottom end? Or is it just an overpriced big bearing setup? Anyone know what their bearing support plate does? I would assume its a bandaid version of machining in a lockring into the PTO bearing like IndySpecialties, but I don't actually know yet (awaiting email response).
Thanks for your thoughts/opinions/advice in advance and reading this novel of a post.
-Mitch
I went with Wiseco pistons, and I will be very careful to correctly set the ring gap and make sure to have adequate piston/cylinder clearance as well as warm the sled up completely before every ride (already have that habit). I'll be sending my clutch to IndySpecialties for his comprehensive clutch (blueprinting?) job. The decompression holes in the cylinders are welded shut too.
Just rebuilt the waterpump, cleaned carbs (checked to make sure they're set fat enough to start with too-340 mains for now), replaced recoil rope, replaced EV bellows and installed new yellow SLP springs. I'll be running 19/43 gearing and otherwise stock chassis. The sled came with SLP air intake kit and twin pipes (with the stinger cans...hopefully not too loud- yeah right). Just put the skid back in after going through all the pivots and installing new hyfax.
I'll be riding from 9k to 13k, though most time will be spent from 10 to 12k. I'll be running the clutch setup that came with the sled first, and going from there: 10-62 weights, black/green spring (Polaris) in primary; 58-40-46 ER helix with a red/black spring (SLP) in the secondary, running a new 080 belt.
Do you all recommend extra venting for the clutches? Do most dealers provide cylinder honing services? The mag side cylinder looks good (no chips in nicasil and no scoring), but its just about free of any cross hatching at this point and I only have a ball hone.
I would love to buy an IndySpecialties bottom end, as it seems to me the only true fix for the 800 crank engineering mistakes. But, as a student, I don't think I can swing the $1800 price tag and still be able to eat (or buy beer). Has anyone ever used a USA Shortblocks bottom end? Or is it just an overpriced big bearing setup? Anyone know what their bearing support plate does? I would assume its a bandaid version of machining in a lockring into the PTO bearing like IndySpecialties, but I don't actually know yet (awaiting email response).
Thanks for your thoughts/opinions/advice in advance and reading this novel of a post.
-Mitch