6000 RPM MAX, 800 RMK HELP!

[U.P. sledder]

So here's the issue and I could really use some help! I have a 03 RMK 800 155. Last spring I decided to put a top end in it just precautionary because the motor had 3K miles of mountain riding. I pulled the motor completely out so I could inspect and clean everything, the motor seemed solid and had some heat marks on the piston's but nothing to be concerned about. I sent the jugs in for a light honing and had them measured, all within spec. I put new forged pistons and rings in it and a new upper gasket kit. I also replaced power valve assembly with a new pink spring, all factory parts. Replaced water pump belt and carburetor boots. Torqued everything to spec and went right out of the service tech manual. After I got it all back together it wouldn't idle, it consistently had a high idle, 3000RPM-5000RPM and was detonating like I had an air leak. I pulled the carburetor's apart and gave them a thorough cleaning, adjusted the idle air screw, put different jets and adjusted the needle jet so it was exactly in specs. I ensured carburetors were synchronized at wide open which they were. I put a seal of RTV around the carburetor boots where they butt up against my reed valves just in case air was getting by. I put it all back together and it fired up on the 3rd pull and had a low idle. I adjusted the throttle and idle screw and had it idling right at 1400RPM. the throttle and choke are right were they need to be. I let it idle to warm up and it wasn't detonating, smelled better, idled smoother and sounded better. I started to give it some throttle and it sounded great, I cracked it wide open to see if it would make full RPM, right at 6000RPM it sounded like it was loading up or something was stopping the engine from making the last 2000 RPM, I shut it down right away and started to suspect an out of spec TPS sensor. I then started testing the sensor, when I put it on the tester with 5Volts as a baseline (0) volts at no throttle, it seemed smooth on the volt meter through the squeeze until it reached 3.1V, (wide open). I tested it a few times trying to make sure I was doing it correctly and it was pretty constant at 3.1 V wide open which it is supposed to be at 4.0 volts exactly. I then adjusted the TPS to give maximum Volts and could only get 3.2V out of it and that was adjusted all the way to maximum volts.

Do you guys think that TPS could cause it to stumble right at 6000 RPM, it seems logical to me but I'm not sure.

I called the dealer and the technician didn't think my TPS would influence the motor that much, he suggested it was the power valves gummed up or something in the exhaust not allowing the engine to breathe. As I said the power valves are brand new and clean, the passageways are clean in the jugs too. The exhaust is stock, but I don't think that's the issue, its a really clean sled and has always been stored indoors with no mice or anything in the exhaust.

What do you guys think?

 

[BB454]

Rpm

If it ran ok before then I don't think it is TPS unless you dropped the carbs and whacked the TPS. Shouldn't go bad sitting around. Look at the temp sending unit. When they go bad, the sled goes into limp mode. The CDI thinks it is over heated and takes timing out to prevent burning it up. It will miss as well as not having full power. Make sure you plugged the correct wires into it. I have seen the 2 off the coil plugged in by mistake but when that happens they won't even run. Exhaust valves open at about 6k RPM but usually they will go ahead and spin past that with no load on the motor even if the valve isn't opening. Just no power when you put a load on it.

My bet is the temp sensor

 

[U.P. sledder]

I forgot to say that I put a new temp sensor in it when I did all that work over the summer, I assume just to replace those items that wear out to save the possibility of it burning down.

As far as the TPS sensor, its possible the carb rack fell, I don't remember it falling but who knows. Do you have any idea why I can only get 3.2 volts out of the TPS? Is it a dead spot right at wide open? I want to rule out an error on diagnosing the TPS and try to save 170$ in a part that may or may not be working. Ill double check the wiring tomorrow, but it seems to run great right up to 6K.