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2018 Axys 163 Silber Turbo extreme bogging issue...Need help!

J
Nov 8, 2020
17
15
3
I am new to this forum and am looking for help with trouble shooting an extreme bogging issue that occurred on my last ride last season. I am fairly new to sledding (fifth season) so am learning as much as I can along the way. I try to troubleshoot, fix, and maintain my sleds myself as much as possible. Thanks for any advice and help ahead of time.
So here’s the backstory. My last ride of the season my sled all of a sudden developed and extreme bog. I was side hilling through thick trees and had to stop and pull my front end down to turn down the hill. When I started it back up to head down it had the bog issue. It was like night and day difference as things were fine then it was not. It will start up and idle just fine but giving it any amount of throttle it bogs with no power whatsoever. It seems to be loading up with lots of oil coming out the exhaust. I pulled the spark plugs and they were wet and oily so put new ones in with no improvements. On the 10 plus mile ride back we discovered that the primary spring had broke at some point so replaced it with a spare with no improvements. After the trip back it had a lot of oil in the bottom of the baulkhead under the exhaust y-pipe and quite a lot over by the turbo can under the QuickDrive. On the trip back I would continue to rock and shake the sled holding the throttle wide open and every so often it would all of a sudden hit hard and run normal for about 1-3 seconds then back to bogging. It did this all the way back.
Is it possibly an electrical issue? Or maybe reed valves? Is it a turbo issue?

I just cleaned the power valves with no change or improvements. The waste gate spring seems fine and I checked the impellers from the fresh air port side of the turbo. They seem to spin smooth and very freely.

Sled specs
2018 Axys 163 with a non-intercooled Silber Turbo Running the 5# spring. It has 1200-1500 miles with the turbo on it from day one. I have always run 20% LL100 with non ethonal gas.
I ride mostly 5000-7500 feet elevation.
I have the TKI gear down kit. 63/29=2.17
I have Indy Specialty turbo clutching for both primary and secondary.

So any ideas thoughts that will point me in the right direction would be much appreciated.

Thanks again
 

Sheetmetalfab

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Oct 5, 2010
7,910
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……..
Just to re iterate my post on your other thread

it seems elementary but i’ve ran into the exact thing you described with a plug wire cap popping up 1/4”.

you push down on it and it feels fully seated, then push super hard and it snaps fully down.

i’m on my 3rd season with a 2016 silber 800 non intercooled.
 
J
Nov 8, 2020
17
15
3
Yes always good to double check simple things like spark plug wires and such. I would much rather find the issue to be something simple early on before diving into more complicated issues. Start with the simple things first! I don’t think that is the issue as I have had the spark plugs in and out multiple times and making sure the caps are on secure and still get the same result. I will double check again though just to be sure. Thanks for your input!
 
S
Oct 4, 2016
695
209
43
north pole alaska
I've hade my cap pop off once but it didn't run right until i pushed it down and i wasn't going any where with it 3/4 off!! i would break down that clutch and make sure it wasn't binding if all the little things check out. boost spring cap.. plugs/wires.. /oil lines/ boost clamps.. /belt and deflection../ i would defiantly check the relays. in particular the EX relay and cable let us know what you find good luck!
 
J
Nov 8, 2020
17
15
3
One thing I failed to say in my original post was I took the belt off and got the exact same results. It starts right up first or second pull and will idle just fine but then the second I start to give it throttle it bogs and cuts out then tries to pick up a little but then right back to bogging no matter where the throttle position is.

I don’t think its the turbo if my thinking is correct here??? If it was the turbo I would think the throttle response would be fine when I first crack the throttle and would rev fine until it got to where the turbo should kick in then start to fail because its not building enough boost because of leaks or something. Maybe I am way off here. Thoughts?

Hopefully I’ll get some time to work on it this Thursday or Friday. I will be posting updates as time allows. Thanks again for all the suggestions!
 
X
Oct 8, 2009
310
199
43
You could have a reed issue. Pull it apart and check. It wont run without a set of reeds. You may have a crack that splits when you throttle up. If it is flooding the pipe, a wiring issue could be to blame. The sled may be trying to go into limp mode and flooding the motor in an attempt to save itself. But, that should be over fueling, not oil. You should have a wideband on a turbo sled. Otherwise, how do you know whether it is leaning out or going rich? The answer is you do not know what it is doing. You should take it to a dealer to see if and what codes it is throwing. After a real diagnosis, then you can choose whether to do the repair yourself or to pay for it to be done. The turbo unless it is cheap junk, likely is not the issue. To put oil in the pipe, the compressor seal would have to be bad, but the wheel and inner compressor housing would be covered in oil, not misted with oil film. If the turbine seal was bad, it would smoke out the exhaust and not collect in the pipe. Pull it apart and figure it out. Also look carefully for cracks in gaskets and seals.
 
Last edited:

Scott

Scott Stiegler
Staff member
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Nov 1, 1998
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W Mont
Also, check the TPS.
Turbos don't cause problems, they just make other problems stand out more. ?
 
J
Nov 8, 2020
17
15
3
An update on what I found wrong with my sled. It was the four wires going to the T-Map sensor which inserts into the air box. When the previous owner installed the turbo he had the wires going to the sensor pushed up against the ECU unit so two of the four wires severed from rubbing. So it was going into limp mode causing the bog. I had to cut all the wires and reconnect the clip that connects to the sensor. Glad I was able to do this because those four wires are part of that big main wiring harness that also connects to the ecu unit and a bunch of other stuff from what I can tell.

Thanks again for all the imput!
 

Colbymh

Well-known member
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Sep 1, 2018
325
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Oregon
Do you have pics of this? Im going to check mine tomorrow as my issues are the exact same.
 
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