2016 Viper Float 3 setup tips

WakeGD

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Nov 26, 2007
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I jumped back into the 4 stroke world and I am looking for guidance on air pressure for my Float 3 Evols.

Mainly, I'm concerned about the center skid shock as that will have the biggest influence on how it handles off trail. Can anyone give me a good baseline?

2016 MTX 162x3" turbo. All 4 shocks are floats.
I'm roughly 200lbs give or take.

Thanks!
 

WakeGD

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Nov 26, 2007
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Meridian, ID
Appreciate the suggestions. Were your shocks the Evol?
I played around with various settings on the hill yesterday and couldn't find anything close to what I liked. But I didn't see your suggestions before I left the house.

Right now my Viper feels heavier than my Apex did.
Anyone with a 162" and boost have any ideas?
 

MTN_VIPER

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The rear skid shock was an EVOL, the other 3 were Float 3's. In the EVOL chamber I ran 180-190 psi.

Something must be off though, the Viper is a fair amount lighter then an Apex. Just a thought, but does it still have the stock skis?
Grippers or the 2020 Cat mountain ski are a significant improvement in handling/flotation. (I had Grippers on the 7000)
 
Contact Stingray Mods for their skid spring it will help with weight transfer and make the steering lighter. I put in the IceAge ProMotion to aid with side billing. I run about 65 - 70 lbs in my front shocks and 135 lbs in my rear.
 
Oct 9, 2009
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I have and know the viper very well. I built a custom 400 hp chute climber in stages, and each stage had its struggles. I still have factory floats upfront at 90 to 95 psi. Go to 100 if you need too. You gotta turn the ski shock pressure up to reduce the diving since there is no sway bar. Next, you gotta increase the center shock a lot to take pressure off the skis and get the skid to transfer. I dont remember what I use to run the factory shocks at, but they were close to max for both rear shocks. I think that was in the 160 to 170 range. Reducing the rear shock a little will help transfer and make the front feel lighter, but the turbo should make enough power to make up for that. Also let the limiter strap out a bit, and mount the skid in the bottom front hole in the tunnel. That will force the front shock to carry more weight. Keep the rear skid mount high in the tunnel brackets so as to flatten the sled riding stance (probably the middle bolt hole; try the top if it maintains the center to center skid distance. If not, it may bind during suspension travel. These are all tricks to reduce ski pressure on trail. On the mountain, the sled will try to wheelie too much. The viper skid is weak. It will get outta control when you get into the 220 hp range. After that mine started tail walking the 162 when climbing. It was cool to watch. But, it is ineffective and will prevent you from using your power to go up the hill. I put a zbros coupler on and turned it up to 250ish, and the tail walking problem started to come back. Depending on your horsepower level, you may not run into the same problems I did.

In the end, you just have to test different settings and find what is right for you. Worst case, call fox and take to a tech specialist. I have since ditched the factory skid for a 174 kmod, raptors, and the big chute kit. That was hands down the best decision given the power my sled makes. I have successfully put down around 330 hp in big chutes with that setup, and it is roudy. I have no need to turn it up anymore as it is simply too much to hang on to beyond 300. I am 210 pounds to give you an idea. Good luck.
 
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