2016 m8000 - clutching gremlin. Sled "walks" regardless of belt deflection

[Stovebolt]

Replacing stock OEM spec belt with same spec new one. Sled walks in forward and reverse, more or less depending on belt tension, but still can't seem to get it to stop walking even after I run it on track stand, run it around 200 feet. Back it up and work the brake, etc. Also discovered a cracked torque control arm. Bummer. Likely I won't be the guy pulling his own clutches, lacking tools and a workspace to do so. Question in my mind is that the primary needs to come off for cleaning/inspection/rebuild as the walking culprit and the torque arm needs replacment. (It's cracked - not broken all the way through and separated.)

Can anybody suggest why the sled walks after replacing the belt? this isn't the first new replacement belt it's had and it never did this before. It's never blown a belt either, never really had any problems with the sled or stock clutching. I'm at 6000-9000 feet in Island Park. Engine and clutching are stock.

Thanks for any guidance.

Stovey

 

[Frostbite]

Perhaps your offset between your clutches is incorrect?
Your belt deflection "belt height in the secondary clutch" is incorrect?
You may have one primary weight hung up?
You may have a cracked primary or secondary spring?
Your new belt may be shorter than spec. Try the old belt and see if it creeps.

Troubleshooting Drive Clutch/Driven Clutch Problem: Midrange Shift-Up (Too Quickly - Lowers RPM) Condition Remedy 1. Drive clutch spring weak 2. Driven clutch spring weak 3. Driven clutch spring preload tension inadequate 4. Center-to-center distance too close 5. Driven clutch bearing worn — damaged 1. Replace drive clutch spring 2. Replace driven clutch spring 3. Replace driven clutch spring 4. Adjust center-to-center distance 5. Replace bearing — movable sheave Problem: Midrange Shift-Up (Too Slowly - Raises RPM) Condition Remedy 1. Drive clutch components dirty 2. Driven clutch components dirty 3. Driven clutch spring preload tension excessive 4. Driven clutch bearing worn — dirty 1. Clean drive clutch components 2. Clean driven clutch components 3. Replace driven clutch spring 4. Clean — replace bearing — movable sheave Problem: Excessive Belt Deposits Condition Remedy 1. Offset/parallelism incorrect 2. Drive clutch/driven clutch sheaves rough — damaged — dirty 3. Driven clutch movable sheave travel impaired 4. Driven clutch bearing worn — dirty 1. Adjust offset/parallelism 2. Repair — replace — clean drive clutch/driven clutch 3. Service driven clutch 4. Clean — replace bearing — movable sheave Problem: Excessive Belt Drag—Impaired Drive Clutch Disengagement Condition Remedy 1. Drive clutch components dirty — damaged 2. Drive belt does not meet measurement specifications 1. Clean — replace drive clutch components 2. Replace drive belt Problem: Engine RPM Suddenly Increases—Drive Clutch Vibrates Condition Remedy 1. Cam arm pin bent — damaged 2. Cam arm damaged — broken 3. Drive clutch out of balance 1. Replace pin 2. Replace cam arm 3. Align — replace components — drive clutch — drive belt Problem: Driven Clutch Vibrates Condition Remedy 1. Driven clutch out of balance 1. Service — replace driven clutch Problem: Drive Clutch Engagement (Before Specified RPM) Condition Remedy 1. Drive clutch spring weak — bent 2. Cam arms incorrect — worn 1. Replace spring 2. Replace cam arms Problem: Drive Clutch Engagement (After Specified RPM) Condition Remedy 1. Drive clutch spring incorrect 2. Spider buttons worn 1. Replace spring 2. Replace clutch Problem: Drive Clutch Sticks Condition Remedy 1. Drive clutch components dirty 2. Movable sheave bent — binding 3. Spider buttons worn 1. Clean drive clutch components 2. Clean — replace movable sheave 3. Replace clutch Problem: Drive Clutch Jerks—Shifts Erratically Condition Remedy 1. Drive clutch dirty 2. Rollers worn 3. Cam arms rough 4. Spider buttons worn 5. Sheaves dirty 1. Clean — drive clutch components 2. Replace clutch 3. Polish — replace cam arms 4. Replace clutch 5. Clean sheaves

 

[aphoric]

Check for broken primary spring, my brother just had a similar problem and that was the cause

Sent from my HD1907 using Tapatalk

 

[Stovebolt]

You guys are awesome, thank you - much appreciated.

Will rule out the old belt. Suspect the clutches are going to have to come off and that I'll discover one or more of the things you suggest will be found to be problem areas. They have never been off the sled, just cleaned in place preseason. Not the "real deal" cleaning and inspection on a bench. 5 years is a long time to go without doing that. 1900 miles on sled so I'm sure things are tired. Could use a top end on time and miles too. I wish I had a good shop to go to instead of a dealership. Rory is way the heck down in Montpelier now and that's a long haul. If I could get the clutches off here and just take them to SLP Jerry Mathews crew, that would probably be the big score, but I know I won't be able to pull this primary for the first time since factory out here in the bushes and snow...

Thanks for the helpful replies fella's. Always get great knowledge assist from the standups on Snowest!

Much appreciated and have a great Christmas week too you guys.

Stovey

 

[kiliki]

Just mark the cover to the movable chiv so you can get them back on the way they came off. Pull belt, remove primary cover ( no compression tools needed) pull spring out and slide chiv all the way in and check rollers and weights. You will find your problem.
How many miles? If over 2k you most likely will need a new clutch

 

[sno*jet]

Can anybody suggest why the sled walks after replacing the belt? this isn't the first new replacement belt it's had and it never did this before. It's never blown a belt either, never really had any problems with the sled or stock clutching. I'm at 6000-9000 feet in Island Park. Engine and clutching are stock.

Thanks for any guidance.

Stovey

new belt is a hair wider than a worn belt so deflection needs to be adjusted. loosen the lock nut on the secondary and screw the allen head in until the walking stops. then tighten the nut. Theres a spec to follow in the manual if you want to do it right.
the clutches im sure could use a good cleaning but nothing should be worn out including your top end at 1900 miles unless something broke. You can take the secondary apart and youll see the steel washer your deflection bolt pushes against and maybe just turn that around so its out of the worn groove they create, and that might solve youre problem with nothing else done as well. You should check the spec correctly tho, with a warm belt.
If its the TCL with a hairline crack, replace it with a '17 or newer.

 

[Sleds R Fun]

If its the TCL with a hairline crack, replace it with a '17 or newer

With the TCL do you mean ‘ engine plate PTO’? The 16 has a different bolt pattern than the 17.

 

[boondocker97]

With the TCL do you mean ‘ engine plate PTO’? The 16 has a different bolt pattern than the 17.

Yep, if upgrading you need the newer style bearing carrier on that side as well. I also got the new bolts that hold them together when I did it.