I have a 16 m8 162 Ltd with 3” paddle and found myself trenching a lot in deep snow. I rode a 16 pro 163 with the 2.6” track and that seemed to have better floatation. Is there any tips on what I can do to my suspension to help balance less trench yet still easy to lay on its side. I like to ride in open pockets of deep snow in the trees. I am about 170 lb and currently run about 65 psi in front, maybe 125 lb in the rear shock, not sure what my limiter strap is set to.
2016 m8 162 Ltd trenching, best deep powder set up
- Thread starter Rikster
- Start date
A few guys on here squeezed 8 tooth drivers in those and sounded like the bees knees for getting on top of the snow. i think BDX will sell you a swap in shaft with 8 tooths on it ready to go for not too bad of price. Id look into getting the new aluminum driveshaft with it if the checkbook allows. i wouldnt even bother changing to the new longer chaincase, just squeeze those in there it will work.
is it lifting the front end to the sky then digging in with the nose high, or is it just shoveling the snow out from under itself without trying to pick the skis up?
it doesn’t seem to be too light on the front end, just seems to run out of juice when climbing. The more throttle you give it the more it digs, and if you let off you are done. That Pro I rode as soon as you let off it would pop right back on top, so the owner would hit things half throttle and was able to keep up with ease. Was starting to wonder if it was the difference in track, I have 3” powerclaw.
so do I need a different track or gearing then? I assume 8 tooth drivers are bigger in od and change track attack angle.
The stock gearing on those was way too low with the 7T drivers cat put in them. 8T drivers bring the gearing back in line closer to where it should be. They will fit your existing track, just not very fun to install or remove again after you get them in there since your tunnel clearance gets as tight as you'd ever want it to be. The extra low gearing might not be helping your cause. Might be digging more instead of building a little more track speed. If you don't want to do the driver swap re-gearing from 19/50 to 21/49 is an improvement. Also try dropping your front track shock pressure down to 50 and see if it improves.
dump the 7t and put in the 8t drivers (direct fit from 12-16) and change the top gear out for a 20t. (stock 19/50) go with 20/50) it will fit on the stock chain if you have over 400 mile on it. you might have to grind a tiny bit off the back of the adjuster arm.
I generally ride 9k+ elevation out west. Thanks for the feedback
So in this case you slightly change attack angle and increase track speed. No issues on power? Keep stock clutch set up? Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the info!
yes better attack angle and no issues with changing clutching. As said it is a bit of work to get in, I did it by myself and it took about 20 min just to get the drive shaft in.