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2015 RMK PRO

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Hey guys, I’m a newbie when it comes to these newer sleds but was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on oil coming out my exhaust. Just bought a 2015 RMK Pro 800 off a guy and ran it in the garage for about 5 minutes and had a good amount of oil on the garage floor after. Is this normal and should I wait to do any major adjustments till after I go out the first time this year and give it a good ride?? Any thoughts appreciated, thanks in advance.

- Justin
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turbolover

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Ride the hell out of it first then see if its still leaking. That doesn't look abnormal for a sled that's been sitting all summer

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I
That’s kinda what I figured. It may have just been fogged as well. He told me it also has the Amsoil Dominator oil in it as well, not sure if that would make a big difference from factory oil. Thought about going back to the factory recommended stuff just so I don’t have to carry around two different kinds of oil
 

turbolover

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I've run all kinds of oil. The Polaris VES Gold is good oil.
Nothing wrong with the Amsoil other that the red dominator doesn't have the rust inhibitor properties of the gold colored amsoil. ( Don't remember the name of it at the moment)

I run the VES gold in everything niw just because I can get it anywhere at any dealer.
Amsoil can be a pain to find and if it's at a retailer not a distributor, you can't get your dealer discount. Costs more than the Polaris oil.

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Teth-Air

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Very normal, nothing wrong with it. You can pull it apart and check the grafite donut to make sure it is in good shape. If it leaks really bad it can also leak exhaust gasses and if too much you can lose backpressure and it might not make as much power.
 

Teth-Air

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Thanks guys!
In addition those motors can get starved for oil at mid-range. The problem is from a couple things. First the oil tank lid is angled and the vent only works properly when level or when hitting a big enough bump for the ball inside to tilt enough level to open the vent. Some guys drill a fine hole through the cap to add extra venting. Secondly this generation of motor feeds oil proportional to throttle position. when you trail ride there is very little load and the throttle position is barely open so the motor gets little oil. Trail riding often results in less cooling too so the motor is hot. All this combined puts the lower rod bearings at risk of overheating. Finally trail riding is often done at lower elevations where there is more oxygen so the motor is even more suseptible to running lean and hotter.

I have seen enough engine failures and most are on the trail going in to the backcountry. In all cases it was the lower rod bearings that failed and the rod was blue from heat.

I always would add 100 ml of extra oil to the fuel tank and turn up the oiler 3 turns. (It is a pain but there is a lot of instruction for that on this forum)

The adding of the oil to the tank is not the best answer by itself because it gets injected in the transfer port and gets to the piston but not to the bearing directly where it is needed. The idea for me is if you keep the cylinder lubed it will stay cooler and help everything else stay cool.

For the trail use scratchers and snow flap and watch the temps too.
 

Reg2view

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Normal at cold start and after sitting. The Amsoil with rust inhibitor is Interceptor. Been there with rod bearing corrosion with Dominator on doos, even tho I did fog in off season. Dominator is a great high temp oil, but has the shortcoming mentioned by turbolover - right on. Poo Gold and Extreme are very good oils. Others include Redline, and Legend, which is a dino oil with a low pour point. I've seen least VES buildup now with Extreme. Nothing is magical. The Ski-Doo duckbill oil caps are a direct fit replacement, used to cost about $15US, and will not leak on a rollover. Teth-Air is righton re: potential oil starvation on a Pro 800. The Poo caps are garbage, and stupid on a Pro. Drilling does work, but they will leak if rolled over on a stuck, right above the belt. The oil pump setting below the throttle bodies on this motor should be turned up from the stock setting, if it's not already. This really helps eliminate oil starvation, along with varying throttle with the thumb on the trail. If you're changing the pump setting yourself for the first time, research it well to avoid issues or screwing up the TPS by turning the wrong screw. Don't jump in with a screwdriver until you absolutely sure what you're doing. Someone experienced doing this can show you the easiest way to both check and change the setting with some common hand tools and technique. Lots of info on SW about this, but some of it will appear confusing or incomplete.

If you want more to do - setting the primary belt and track deflection, and belt side clearance, with this motor/chassis helps. Belt and track deflection is very easy. Specialized tools and some knowledge needed for belt side clearance. Fuel filter is expensive, really not that hard to change, but effective for improving running quality. I've changed fuel filters on multiple pros for guys who got the throttle stab stumble - gone. Plug caps need to be tight and clean. VES valves clean. Skid greased routinely - no brass bushings in the Pro. Clean clutches, new springs and belt, and checking weight bushings for wear if it hasn't been done. Clutch alignment check is always good. Clean and fill chaincase lube. Check the throttle freeplay, set to spec (credit card width) to avoid throttle safety switch - TSS - issues. Trying to help if you're not aware, already, and not scare or discourage you - these are proven sleds and common maintenance items to get the most out of it. Only really special tools needed are for the clutches. A bud with Poo experience and clutch tools will set it up for you, too. Good luck! That's the best year Pro RMK made.
 
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