Symptoms started last season with improper backshifts. From a standing start the sled would hit peak rpms than drop off to 7400ish, it wouldn't maintain revs. While riding if you were in mid rpm range and pinned it, again the sled would sometimes hit peak rpm and than drop off to 7400ish. Springs in both the drive and driven clutch were changed as well as a new belt with little improvement. Obviously something wrong, so time to take a closer look at the clutches. Took primary apart with no obvious signs of trouble so moved onto the secondary and that's where i found a couple issues.There are replacement bushings, one in the inside sheave and one in the helix. Using a caliper i was able to measure the I.D. of the bushings and compared to the new one. The bushing in the helix was wore 6 thousands of an inch, not too bad. The bushing in the inside sheave was wore almost 60 thousands of an inch, not good at all and no doubt was binding as the clutch was opening and closing. Rollers were removed and checked out good, no signs of wear. So time to replace the bushings or (bearings) as the parts finder calls them. The whole process didn't take more than an hour or so and you don't need any specialized tools. The cost for the bushings was about $65 Can. I can tell you that the clutching is spot on again and working as it should. This might not be the first choice of fix for some. A lot of guys feel these are throw away clutches once there are issues and i can't argue there aren't better options out there, but it's maybe an option for you. Clutches had around 2900 prairie miles on them at the time.
Home made clutch compressor in place. Tighten until bottomed out, this allows you room to preheat bolts on the backside of sheave to loosen loctite for removal of the bolts. 4 in total, once bolts are out you can slowly let off on the clutch tool. Be sure to place marks on all the clutch parts so that they line up for reassembly in the same place.
This is a picture of the inside sheave. The arrow shows the bushing and the clip that needs to be removed in order to push out the bushing. A seal pic and small flat screw driver was used to remove the clip.
This is the helix, you can see the same bushing and clip as the sheave.
I found a socket that was the same diameter as the bushing. You'll need this for the install, the bushings are a graphite material and are soft so you need to be careful, not so much for the removal.
Once you've got the bushings in, time to reassemble. Be sure to line up all of your marks.
Place the sheaves together, place the plastic washer and spacer in place than the spring and plastic washer on top. Helix can than be put in place.
Reassemble using loctite, once everything is in place use clutch compressor tool. Tighten slowly until the helix almost makes contact with the back of the sheave, this allows you to start hand threading in the bolts. I used a wire brush to clean threads before new loctite and install.
Clutch assembled and ready to go in the sled. Hope this helps someone, nothing more frustrating than a sled only running at 80% capability.
Home made clutch compressor in place. Tighten until bottomed out, this allows you room to preheat bolts on the backside of sheave to loosen loctite for removal of the bolts. 4 in total, once bolts are out you can slowly let off on the clutch tool. Be sure to place marks on all the clutch parts so that they line up for reassembly in the same place.This is a picture of the inside sheave. The arrow shows the bushing and the clip that needs to be removed in order to push out the bushing. A seal pic and small flat screw driver was used to remove the clip.This is the helix, you can see the same bushing and clip as the sheave.I found a socket that was the same diameter as the bushing. You'll need this for the install, the bushings are a graphite material and are soft so you need to be careful, not so much for the removal.Once you've got the bushings in, time to reassemble. Be sure to line up all of your marks.Place the sheaves together, place the plastic washer and spacer in place than the spring and plastic washer on top. Helix can than be put in place.
Reassemble using loctite, once everything is in place use clutch compressor tool. Tighten slowly until the helix almost makes contact with the back of the sheave, this allows you to start hand threading in the bolts. I used a wire brush to clean threads before new loctite and install.Clutch assembled and ready to go in the sled. Hope this helps someone, nothing more frustrating than a sled only running at 80% capability. 
