2013 XM Bog/cuts out top end

CCGR Guide

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Hello SnoWest friends! I have been running a 2013 Summit 800 e-tec XM 154 for the past three years. Pretty much 2 years (broke my knee in 2013) it has about 7,000 miles on it now. It runs great starts everytime low too mid range RPMs are awesome. On the top end, starting last year, about 7,500-8,000rpms it hits a spot where is will cut out bad. It sounds like it has a cold and there is some "STUFF" in it's throat. Almost like it hits the rev-limiter but, not high enough RPMs. The only "mod" I have done is put a Bikeman Muffler on it (which makes the cutting out sound a whole lot worse).

I am wondering if anyone else has had the same problem? We also have a 2014 Summit 800 e-tec XM that will do the same thing from time to time. It also has a Bikeman Muffler.

I haven't done any messing around with the exhaust, checked compression, and so on. I understand 7,000 miles is a lot for a 2-stroke sled but, as far as I can tell everything is running fine. We have had rentals with more miles that run great. Any help or advise would be greatly appreciated!
 
Nov 28, 2007
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Had the same issue with the GGB can on a summit 600 Runs perfect with the stock muffler also get a reflash with the latest update from your Dealer , they made some grade improvements with the fuel mapping.
 

CCGR Guide

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Thanks "powdermuncher"! I have been meaning to try the stock muffler just haven't done it. It's just weird that for 3 years the sled ran great with the Bikeman muffler and out of no where started running like crap. Maybe I can talk "upper management" into an 872 and about $5k in parts! haha, thanks for the help.

BTW we are riding here at Crooked Creek, it's not great yet but, soon it will be!
 

Proride_58640

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Dec 15, 2013
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Is your can cause a code be thrown saying exhaust temps too high? They make an adapter now. Just weird it hasn't done it till just now.


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sledhead_24_7

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Have your dealer or yourself check the fuel pressure regulator in the tank. The 13's had issues with the regulator popping out on one side causing run ability issues.
 

CCGR Guide

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So last night I switched the muffler back to stock, checked compression, and put new plugs in it. It still does the same thing:(

I brought it to our dealer last winter and they did all the computer updates and checked any codes. Everything is stock haven't rebuilt the top end only replaced wore out ramps, rolls, ect. in the primary. Could it be a RAVE valve hanging up or dirty?

The compression was about 100psi which for our elevation (8,500ft) seems pretty good, and it was exactly the same on both sides. I really thought it was the muffler but, it does the same thing with the stock one.

It will actually only run about 7,200 RPMs and I have no weight in the clutch and the clickers are set at 5. It used to run about 8,200 rpms with the clickers set at 3...
 

CCGR Guide

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I just went through the clutch and cleaned everything really well. Ramps, rollers and, bushings were all in pretty good shape. I will most likely replace them before we get going for winter. I do all of our sleds every year.

I switched back to the stock can and put in new plugs. I also checked compression on both sides and it's running about 100psi on both, which for our elevation (8,500ft) seems pretty good. I should check compression on a new one to compare but, I haven't gotten that far.

It seems to run a little better I can get a 7600 rpms now. That's running with the clickers on 4 and hollow pins. What gets me is that it still cuts out almost like it's hitting the rev-limiter. It pulls great until it hits that spot then it bounces between 7,000-7,600rpms.

I road one of our 15's with a lot lower miles and it doesn't quite pull 8,000rpms but, it doesn't cut out either. The clickers are set on 3 on that one.

Could it be a spring getting weak? or a fuel issue? I haven't taken apart the exhaust valves or the fuel pressure regulator yet.
 

CCGR Guide

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Ok so I took the fuel tank off removed the fuel pump assembly. The Fuel Pressure Regulator looked fine it wasn't falling out, and very difficult to pop out. I then replaced it with one off of a sled that had been wrecked at around 1500 miles. Rode my sled this morning nothing changed. It still cuts out at around 7,200 RPMs just like it's hitting the rev-limiter. Wide open it will bounce between 7,200 and 7,600. It doesn't matter if I run it on a stand in the shop, going down the trail, or up a hill in snow.
 

dooman92

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CCGR guide, have you tried removing the covers and watching the rave valves while accelerating from idle to full rpm. You can verify that the valves are drawn into the closed position when the engine starts and stay in the closed position till about 6500 rpm. from 6600 to about 7700 rpm the valves move to the mid position, above 7700 they should be full up/open. i realize you may not be able to verify the full open position as you cannot develope the necessary rpm but, you can verify that the valves are moving. If the valves are sticking you should get a code. Sticking valves will cause your issue as will a defective rave solenoid, rave manifold or a leaking control hose to the valves.

Sticking valves are more likely if you are a steady throttle position operator. If you are constantly on off throttle with lots of max throttle buildup/sticking is less likely. Good luck.
 

Union Pass DOO

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Dec 6, 2007
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ccgr with seven thousand miles have you changed any springs in your clutch's that is a lot of miles on stock springs if so take the clutch's off your fifteen and try it. If your exhaust valves are sticking or a below has a pin hole it will throw a code.
 

cubby

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Nov 26, 2007
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Just a reminder this thread is over 3 years old. You might have better luck starting a new thread and explaining what's going on.
 
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