• I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.

    A Group Buy here on SnoWestOnline.com would be a situation where a normal member (non vendor or mfg) personally collects orders from other members. That member then uses those orders to negotiate a better price with the Vendor/Mfg for HIS/HER "Group" of buyers.

    Here is an example of a viable "Group Buy"

    http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269222

    A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.

    If a members wants to become a group buy manager, maintain a thread and collect the funds and negotiate a group buy... as a member, you are welcome to do that as long as you are not attached to the business of the vendor or Mfg.

    If you are a vendor/MFG and you want to offer an EXCLUSIVE "SnoWestOnline ONLY" promotion that is exclusive to snowest readers, please contact me and you'll be able to put it up in the Polaris forums.

    Also, before any vendors/mfgs get all "riled up" over this know that the moderators are strictly volunteers and do not receive a dime from any advertising $$ spent on this site.

    As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.

    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.

    MH

2012 Polaris Pro 800 Bog

Jan 27, 2019
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I have a 2012 Polaris Pro 800 bought it 2 years ago put 3 rides on it (200 miles give or take) and the top end blew. Took it to my mechanic and he replaced the top end. Put the fixit kit on seems the 11-12’s need those. Took it out for the first ride and it ran great. Ran mixed gas 60:1 and turned my oil injector up just a hair from stock. I noticed it cut out and fell on its face one time on the first ride at around 6200 rpms. Didn’t think anything of it. Took it for 3 more rides and the bog got progressively worse. Now I can’t get the sled above 6200 rpm. Occasionally if I ease into the throttle I can get it past the bog but 95% of the time you throw it to the bars it falls on its face. My mechanic has mine, my fathers, and another guys sled all doing the same thing right now in his shop. 2 2011’s and mine the 2012. He has replaced TPS sensor, wiring harness, exhaust temp probe, sanded the main ground connections, fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulators, stator pick up coil assembly, egt sensors, spark plug caps, wires, and coils, Regulator/rectifier and capacitator, ecu, water temp sensor, fuel pump, and went through all of the clutching. My mechanic has a 2012 pro as well that runs perfect and he’s been swapping parts off of his to mine and the other two sleds. He’s a very great mechanic and has been busting his ass trying to figure these things out. If anyone has had this problem and found out the fix please let me know what you did. Really frustrating because the sled is badass when it runs correctly.
 
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BILTIT

Well-known member
Premium Member
Apr 9, 2011
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Lloydminster, SK
Running 60:1 and turned up the oil injection?? Too much oil. I run 40:1 oil inj and i threw in a jerry can of 50:1 and it would bog some. 100:1 premix is lots.

Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk
 
Jan 27, 2019
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Running 60:1 and turned up the oil injection?? Too much oil. I run 40:1 oil inj and i threw in a jerry can of 50:1 and it would bog some. 100:1 premix is lots.

Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk
I only ran 60:1 for the break in period on the fresh rebuild. After that just ran straight gas 92 octane non-ethanol. It’s not a rich bog, plugs are burning hot. I noticed when I ran the mixed fuel my plugs were that coppery brown that you want. After I started running regular fuel I pulled them out again to check and they were grey. Like it’s burning too hot almost. It’s not white and chalky but they are grey
 

live2beel

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Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
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Exaust valve solenoid? Clean the plug from the stator to harness really well. The black one. Get rid of all dielectric grease in plugs. Sometimes it can cause problems.
 
Jan 27, 2019
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Exaust valve solenoid? Clean the plug from the stator to harness really well. The black one. Get rid of all dielectric grease in plugs. Sometimes it can cause problems.
I’ll call my mechanic and have him to do that! He’s had all that pulled off and swapped but not sure if he cleaned it out really well. He did replace the exhaust valve solenoid, no difference
 
Jan 27, 2019
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**Update**

So my mechanic tested the temperatures inside the motor and my Mag side was reading 163 degrees while my PTO was reading 106 degrees. Plug on the Mag side looked like it wasn’t getting enough fuel while the PTO side was soaked in fuel. He did the same to the other two pros doing the same thing and both results showed a hotter Mag side and a cooler PTO side temperature by a significant amount. Any ideas on what would cause this?!
 
Jan 27, 2019
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Any good news?
We put a PC5 on it and it eliminated the bog for the most part. Still bogs occasionally but before the PC5 it would bog 9 out of 10 times now it’s 1 out of every 10 times. Weird thing is the PC5 is on the SLP stage 3 setting and my sled is bone stock. Just added fuel to the right spots where it was lacking I guess. In my opinion it’s a fueling issue. It’s starving for fuel in WOT. My dads sled is doing the same thing put the PC5 on his SLP stage 3 setting as well and it had no effect on his. So still at a loss at this point
 

94fordguy

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Staff member
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Nov 26, 2007
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Yakima, Wa.
I've had something similar going on with my 13 since I did an aftermarket engine kit to it... basically what I think mine has boiled down to is that it's too lean. I've tested quite a few things, but the biggest difference was when I loaded a sea-level map into it (I'm riding 5-7Kft). That much extra fuel made it run considerably better, though I still think it's not enough. I could run right up to 7,000 RPM on mine, and like clockwork, that's when it would act up. I'm still chasing it, and have a couple different thing's I'm going to try, but I thought I'd mention it.
 

goridedoo

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Feb 8, 2010
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Doesn't probably make sense with the cylinder temps... but from what I have seen over the years is throttle safety switches tend to go bad. Kid you not, the last 5 sled with bogs we have had have just needed a bypass/new switch, take your pick. IMO if you have a tether its something you might as well do anyway. Theres a couple guys on here who sell them.
 
Jan 27, 2019
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I've had something similar going on with my 13 since I did an aftermarket engine kit to it... basically what I think mine has boiled down to is that it's too lean. I've tested quite a few things, but the biggest difference was when I loaded a sea-level map into it (I'm riding 5-7Kft). That much extra fuel made it run considerably better, though I still think it's not enough. I could run right up to 7,000 RPM on mine, and like clockwork, that's when it would act up. I'm still chasing it, and have a couple different thing's I'm going to try, but I thought I'd mention it.
It’s a strange problem, and it’s sucks to have. The PC5 helped mine out a lot but it didn’t do anything to my dads sled. And we ride same elevations. I have a buddy who just took everything out of his 2012 chassis and put it into a 2013 chassis and seems to have no issues with the bog now. It almost makes me wonder if the heat exchangers in the tunnel are clogged or partially clogged causing bad coolant flow making the sled go into a limp mode.
 
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