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2000 RMK 700 Clutch Grind

W
So i've got one of the blue bomber 700 RMKs model year 2000 and it's been bulletproof. Except last year end of season it started making a grinding noise really bad while driving and it sounds like it is somewhere between the clutch and the track. Anyone have this issue? I can't figure out where its coming from..... Thanks for the help
 

sledhed

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Yeah, those sleds are relatively easy to work on, take off the secondary and check that bearing for wear / play, open up the chaincase and check components there - tensioner, chain, bearings top and bottom, and of course the other end of the drive shaft... Remotely possible it is idlers or worn out hyfax...
 
W
Well I dug around and found the chaincase is dry with metal fragments on the dipstick. Pretty sure the grind is coming from there. I added some fluid and lifted the track off the ground- no more grind. When the track is on the ground the grind comes back.

How hard is it to pull these chaincases apart and replace the components in them? I'm not a great mechanic but I'm up for easy jobs. Is this a job for a professional?
 

sledhed

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Well I dug around and found the chaincase is dry with metal fragments on the dipstick. Pretty sure the grind is coming from there. I added some fluid and lifted the track off the ground- no more grind. When the track is on the ground the grind comes back.

How hard is it to pull these chaincases apart and replace the components in them? I'm not a great mechanic but I'm up for easy jobs. Is this a job for a professional?
Easy-peasy. Dry is bad for sure. Hopefully you just need chain and sprockets, if the bearings are bad then you have more work on your hands. Check them, top and bottom. Also of course the tensioner. Don't recall on these sleds what all has to be removed to access chaincase, just the exhaust can, and probably / maybe the brake caliper and brake rotor? Only remove what you have to. And the fact that it is dry may mean it needs seals too.
 
W
Easy-peasy. Dry is bad for sure. Hopefully you just need chain and sprockets, if the bearings are bad then you have more work on your hands. Check them, top and bottom. Also of course the tensioner. Don't recall on these sleds what all has to be removed to access chaincase, just the exhaust can, and probably / maybe the brake caliper and brake rotor? Only remove what you have to. And the fact that it is dry may mean it needs seals too.
Thanks for the help!
 
W
Thanks! So I opened the chaincase up, all the sprockets look good. No marks in any of them, chain looks ok, there is one or two small gouges out of it. I cleaned it all up good and was putting it back together, and couldn't seem to get the chain tight enough even with the tensioner bolt all the way in. I'm lost, can these chains stretch that much? Is it worth ordering a new one? The grind definitely sounds like a slipping chain.... maybe it's something else though..... ???
 

sledhed

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Thanks! So I opened the chaincase up, all the sprockets look good. No marks in any of them, chain looks ok, there is one or two small gouges out of it. I cleaned it all up good and was putting it back together, and couldn't seem to get the chain tight enough even with the tensioner bolt all the way in. I'm lost, can these chains stretch that much? Is it worth ordering a new one? The grind definitely sounds like a slipping chain.... maybe it's something else though..... ???
Yes, they can get that worn, but also if someone changed the gearing at some point it could be they needed to change the chain to a shorter one and didn't? In the downloadable owners manual from polaris (I think) it should show gearing and chain pitch count combinations that work also... or in the service manual...
 
W
Yes, they can get that worn, but also if someone changed the gearing at some point it could be they needed to change the chain to a shorter one and didn't? In the downloadable owners manual from polaris (I think) it should show gearing and chain pitch count combinations that work also... or in the service manual...
And how do you check the bearings on the shafts? Just try and wiggle those sprocket wheels and see if there's any play in them?
 

sledhed

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And how do you check the bearings on the shafts? Just try and wiggle those sprocket wheels and see if there's any play in them?
That is the minimum, yes, but the drive shaft for the track may have enough tension that it may not show any play, look for missing seals, misalignment, wear or rust or anything that jumps out at you as unusual... the fact there was no oil in there is telling me there was probably a leaky seal at a minimum, most of those bearings have their own grease with seals on both sides, but the chaincase also has seals to keep the oil in, on both the jackshaft and driveshaft, I suspect you may have one or both of those bad. One way to tell for sure would be to simply add the appropriate amount of oil and ride it a bit and keep an eye out for leaks, once you get the chain tension issue resolved. The chain will probably wear out first like you have seen from a lack of lubrication, but I haven't had that happen so I can't tell you for sure...
 

retiredpop

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I believe your chassis is still a Gen 2 which is the same as the 1999 so here is the service manual for it. Gearing was slightly different between the 1999 and 2001 so one used a 68P chain and the other had a 70P chain.

1999 Service manual
 

sledhed

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I believe your chassis is still a Gen 2 which is the same as the 1999 so here is the service manual for it. Gearing was slightly different between the 1999 and 2001 so one used a 68P chain and the other had a 70P chain.

1999 Service manual
He is definitely Gen2... had a 1999 600/700 back in the day, edge came out in 2002 in most RMKs IIRC
 
W
I pulled it off of there already. Decided to order a new one, there's a pretty good gash in one section that looks like the chain could split at any time, figured it's not worth risking being stranded. As far as tension goes, I had the tensioner bolt all the way tightened and the chain was still a bit loose. Hoping it just got hot and stretched the chain out, but I'll try and check those bearings as well
 

retiredpop

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Count the number of teeth on the sprockets which will then tell you the length of chain you need as per this chart. You're chain case center distance is 7.05"
 

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  • Polaris Sprocket Chain Combinations.pdf
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W
Well I got it back together and everything seems to be running great. Guess it was just a stretched out chain. Threw a new seal on the chaincase and will be watching it to make sure I don't have the same issue again. Really appreciate everyone's help. I'm slowly learning how these machines operate- pretty interesting
 
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