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Build details are that i essentially removed as much yamaha stuff as possible in trade for polaris and cat junk i had laying around. I started on this sled in 2016 and its still a pull and go sled! Here is a ****y video i tossed together of it.
Rebuilt motor balanced and "bluprinted" running spi pistons ( i have two stock pistons to sell/trade or ISO 1 used oem wiseco piston)
Light porting and case clean up.
Gasket matched and knife edged jugs
Staggered cc on domes because the PTO side gets hot faster than the other two holes. (ask for rebuild specs if desired)
It is set up to run a Boss noss/ boondocker nitrous kit. Its a hodgepodge set up that uses two 15 hp nozzles with a WOT switch. The bottle mounts to the tunnel dump but i have never had the bottle recharged so it sits on the shelf
Ekholm tunnel
Cut, extended drop and roll case useing 13w gear set of 42-19 or 2.210 ratio (needs geared down more)
Team TSS-04 secondary
Fuel filter from a 1996-2010 chevy truck, also doubles as a fuel cooler
Boss m7 style seat ( i have a nos one that doesn't say arctic cat to instal for this season)
pipes have been heated with air pressure to remove kinks/dents over the years but otherwhise stock 1998 SRX factory pipes
Iconel tunnel dump that i fabricated as a first tig welding project. (17 pounds saved) I also have the ability to change the amount of back pressure the pipes hold via 3 different
aluminum cups. Usually set it up nice and loose for the majority of the year as the sled gets loaned out to inexperienced riders often.
Hot Wires ground strap style, resister spark plug boots with TORS switch.
Brisk Lr12 zc racing plugs *HIGHLY RECOMEND BRISK PLUGS*
36mm TM mikuni rack carbs with modified fuel bowls and power jet kit
vforce 3 reeds
Stock air box with a raised shelf featureing a tunable baffle. It sounds fancy because it is? hdpe tube and some plumbing parts... Also the airbox uses a frog skin lid for winter use. On those hot days or when you need a little bit more power you can actually clip the airbox lid onto the secondary clutch cover. I do this when running without the hood in spring time as it protects the clutches from water/snow
Rear skid is a 155 Polaris assault skid from 2013my.
Track was a hand me down from Skidoon' it, i think its a 159-162 x16x2.25 thats been ported. I also trimmed the venter paddles down .25" and installed Kold Kutter 1.5" track screws. It was well abused when i got it and i have done it no favors, currently needing replaced!
8 t 2.52 pitch wahl extroverted driver
m sled tunnel cooler lines with Van Amburg rear bumper and cooler
Front suspension has been a source of strife. I narrowed the sled up as much as possible and then ran m sled 17.5" fox zero pros on the front. Using a mix of tie rods, misalignment spacers, and a lot of grinding resulted in a 38" ski stance with 3.5" more ride hight and 4.75" more overall travel over stock. I later switched to fox evol r ski shocks but have since broken the external resi's off. more to come on fixin that issue! I also had to modify and flip the bellcrank. Cut the tunnel sides and position the tie rod boots lower. While in there i replaced the motor mounts, removed a bunch of brackets and unnecessary hardware. Moved the steering post forward and up about 1" both ways. I had to modify the air box with a heat gun and now she sits TIGHT. Over-all the sled handles well off trail although it really shines on the trails going to and from THE ****. As long as your expectations are that of a brick...well its better than nothing for those deep pow days. Im Not happy with the handling but it WORKS. This last spring the sled got rolled down an icy trail bending the whole over structure, mag side running bord, bars and steering post. Not sure how involved the fixing will be yet. Tempted to just ditch the chassis for a newer design (like a pro rmk) or just strip this one down and build it back up with an improved over structure and trailing arms that would be knock offs of Dan Alt's Alternative impact design.
Pro taper bars
slp powder pros with carls cut
mountain max trailing arms that have been cut and re gusseted for the shock mounts (need replaced with something lighter + raised spindle with more angle would help the sled handle better)
Polaris style HEYES brake resi/master
Last but not least i added a shovel and probe kit into the sleds console area so no matter what it always will be handy! Tree saw and pull rope/tow kit from boss along with 3 spare plugs and basic tools are all kept in the seat. 530 pounds with all the tools, oil coolant, full of fuel WITH heat shields on pipes and a spare belt! #MINT. By removing the hood and seat it gets down to about 480-90 which makes a fun spring sled thats pull and go in any environment. Even after a few engine part failures i have never been stranded by this beast and more than once she has driven herself out of the back country running on 2 cylinders.
*last pic is of a buddies old red-head mountain max named "thumper". The main reason i built this sled was so that he would come ride with me. He now has a newer turbo sled than i do so i guess this needs put on the shelf of antiquated technology and "the good old days". The last of the muscle sleds. The new 2021 mountain max looks to be a great sled, BUT ITS SHORT 1 HOLE!!!
Rebuilt motor balanced and "bluprinted" running spi pistons ( i have two stock pistons to sell/trade or ISO 1 used oem wiseco piston)
Light porting and case clean up.
Gasket matched and knife edged jugs
Staggered cc on domes because the PTO side gets hot faster than the other two holes. (ask for rebuild specs if desired)
It is set up to run a Boss noss/ boondocker nitrous kit. Its a hodgepodge set up that uses two 15 hp nozzles with a WOT switch. The bottle mounts to the tunnel dump but i have never had the bottle recharged so it sits on the shelf
Ekholm tunnel
Cut, extended drop and roll case useing 13w gear set of 42-19 or 2.210 ratio (needs geared down more)
Team TSS-04 secondary
Fuel filter from a 1996-2010 chevy truck, also doubles as a fuel cooler
Boss m7 style seat ( i have a nos one that doesn't say arctic cat to instal for this season)
pipes have been heated with air pressure to remove kinks/dents over the years but otherwhise stock 1998 SRX factory pipes
Iconel tunnel dump that i fabricated as a first tig welding project. (17 pounds saved) I also have the ability to change the amount of back pressure the pipes hold via 3 different
aluminum cups. Usually set it up nice and loose for the majority of the year as the sled gets loaned out to inexperienced riders often.
Hot Wires ground strap style, resister spark plug boots with TORS switch.
Brisk Lr12 zc racing plugs *HIGHLY RECOMEND BRISK PLUGS*
36mm TM mikuni rack carbs with modified fuel bowls and power jet kit
vforce 3 reeds
Stock air box with a raised shelf featureing a tunable baffle. It sounds fancy because it is? hdpe tube and some plumbing parts... Also the airbox uses a frog skin lid for winter use. On those hot days or when you need a little bit more power you can actually clip the airbox lid onto the secondary clutch cover. I do this when running without the hood in spring time as it protects the clutches from water/snow
Rear skid is a 155 Polaris assault skid from 2013my.
Track was a hand me down from Skidoon' it, i think its a 159-162 x16x2.25 thats been ported. I also trimmed the venter paddles down .25" and installed Kold Kutter 1.5" track screws. It was well abused when i got it and i have done it no favors, currently needing replaced!
8 t 2.52 pitch wahl extroverted driver
m sled tunnel cooler lines with Van Amburg rear bumper and cooler
Front suspension has been a source of strife. I narrowed the sled up as much as possible and then ran m sled 17.5" fox zero pros on the front. Using a mix of tie rods, misalignment spacers, and a lot of grinding resulted in a 38" ski stance with 3.5" more ride hight and 4.75" more overall travel over stock. I later switched to fox evol r ski shocks but have since broken the external resi's off. more to come on fixin that issue! I also had to modify and flip the bellcrank. Cut the tunnel sides and position the tie rod boots lower. While in there i replaced the motor mounts, removed a bunch of brackets and unnecessary hardware. Moved the steering post forward and up about 1" both ways. I had to modify the air box with a heat gun and now she sits TIGHT. Over-all the sled handles well off trail although it really shines on the trails going to and from THE ****. As long as your expectations are that of a brick...well its better than nothing for those deep pow days. Im Not happy with the handling but it WORKS. This last spring the sled got rolled down an icy trail bending the whole over structure, mag side running bord, bars and steering post. Not sure how involved the fixing will be yet. Tempted to just ditch the chassis for a newer design (like a pro rmk) or just strip this one down and build it back up with an improved over structure and trailing arms that would be knock offs of Dan Alt's Alternative impact design.
Pro taper bars
slp powder pros with carls cut
mountain max trailing arms that have been cut and re gusseted for the shock mounts (need replaced with something lighter + raised spindle with more angle would help the sled handle better)
Polaris style HEYES brake resi/master
Last but not least i added a shovel and probe kit into the sleds console area so no matter what it always will be handy! Tree saw and pull rope/tow kit from boss along with 3 spare plugs and basic tools are all kept in the seat. 530 pounds with all the tools, oil coolant, full of fuel WITH heat shields on pipes and a spare belt! #MINT. By removing the hood and seat it gets down to about 480-90 which makes a fun spring sled thats pull and go in any environment. Even after a few engine part failures i have never been stranded by this beast and more than once she has driven herself out of the back country running on 2 cylinders.
*last pic is of a buddies old red-head mountain max named "thumper". The main reason i built this sled was so that he would come ride with me. He now has a newer turbo sled than i do so i guess this needs put on the shelf of antiquated technology and "the good old days". The last of the muscle sleds. The new 2021 mountain max looks to be a great sled, BUT ITS SHORT 1 HOLE!!!
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