170 HP with stock pipe!

[spoon]

Checked out Dynotech and found they made over 170HP with stock pipe and engine (no porting or head). Added restrictor in exhaust to match 2010 spec, Boyesen rad valves and a timing key. Used a box to play with fuel a little and got up to 175 using Torco additive and 170 without. Peak power was at 8100-8400 RPM. Thinking of trying this combo to see how it performs. It was stated that 20 HP was found for under 1000$. This was all at low elevation and may not work as well for 5000+ but can't see why it wouldn't improve over stock.
I have everything in my shop already to try it so no skin off my wallet just my knuckles.

 

[Reeb]

Do it!

 

[RACINSTATION]

Brian: Does Jim have this info on his website? Did not see it.

 

[spoon]

Brian: Does Jim have this info on his website? Did not see it.

Info is from 2 yrs ago in summer when one of the first Procross sleds was brought in for a dragracer to tune for best power. Title is 2012 Cat Procross 800.

 

[geo]

Everybody is going to sell "pipe pressure kits" now.

 

[Anylizer]

^^^^^ YEP!!!!

 

[RACINSTATION]

Everybody is going to sell "pipe pressure kits" now.

But wait, that's not all!!!!!

If you buy now, you get the pipe pressure kit, the stock pipe mod kit, the reed petal reducer clamps AND the new improved Shamwow Bathroom Buddy FREE!!!!!

 

[spoon]

But wait, that's not all!!!!!

If you buy now, you get the pipe pressure kit, the stock pipe mod kit, the reed petal reducer clamps AND the new improved Shamwow Bathroom Buddy FREE!!!!!

Soo, I take it you have no belief that what DTR tried on the dyno will work. Have you tried any of these things to disprove it?

 

[RACINSTATION]

No No. I am just joking around that someone will have a silent killer kit. I subscribe to Dynotech and glean a great deal of information from Jim's articles and posts.

I have actually tried the same or very close tests and found great results.

If you take a Proclimb and clean up the ports (not removing a bunch just clean them to factory spec), run a good can (I like D&D with the adjustable end), as well as good reeds and a PCV with timing control, and some good clutching, you can make some mod sleds look silly.

 

[spoon]

No No. I am just joking around that someone will have a silent killer kit. I subscribe to Dynotech and glean a great deal of information from Jim's articles and posts.

I have actually tried the same or very close tests and found great results.

If you take a Proclimb and clean up the ports (not removing a bunch just clean them to factory spec), run a good can (I like D&D with the adjustable end), as well as good reeds and a PCV with timing control, and some good clutching, you can make some mod sleds look silly.

I agree, no matter what parts you throw at a sled, good tuning and logical use of the parts is a must. I am looking to make my sled a bit of a sleeper and this setup seems to be a good starting point.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

begining of '12 season I knew someone running just the reed cage and key and saw pretty big gains over stock on the hill, so I would say it works well. The guess 168hp without tuner and over 170 with tuning.

 

[nikstrik7]

Info is from 2 yrs ago in summer when one of the first Procross sleds was brought in for a dragracer to tune for best power. Title is 2012 Cat Procross 800.

I havent read the article on DT, but drag racers have been "tightening" the stinger for decades. that will be a drag tune only. if you tried to run that tune, you wouldnt make it from the trailer to your ride spot.

 

[spoon]

I havent read the article on DT, but drag racers have been "tightening" the stinger for decades. that will be a drag tune only. if you tried to run that tune, you wouldnt make it from the trailer to your ride spot.

You really should read article but I guess I will deal with my failure when it happens seeing as how you know so much. Stinger was tightened to match 2010 specs on same engine. All changes were also recommended for a trail sled at end of article.

 

[Thunder101]

Jim's write ups are great! Wish there was more stuff to read at DTR, and believe me I read them all a few times.
Nistrik7 even if the stinger was so tight at sea level to make it 660 or 1000ft on SW everyone is talking about being at elevation unless they say different so don't think there is a worry.
Spoon I will be reading that one again on DTR and looking at A/F . Interested for sure!
As for the Key I think the PCV w timing and fine tune your map and lots to gain if you have time to do the tuning.

 

[geo]

It`s not smoke and mirrors. Bin done for yrs. Nut and bolt welded into the stinger is the simplest.

Trouble is, it is very sled and elevation specific. We all get pipes tuned for sea level stock but Cat helps that with their ex valve timing. It changes with elevation. Was that mentioned during the dyno time?
What works at 1000' PROBABLY won't be the same at 7000' but any 2 stroke loves to have the correct pipe pressure.

So just be careful.

 

[nikstrik7]

You really should read article but I guess I will deal with my failure when it happens seeing as how you know so much. Stinger was tightened to match 2010 specs on same engine. All changes were also recommended for a trail sled at end of article.

I wasnt trying to " show how much I know" I was trying to help. jim has dynoed my sleds and a " race " tune from jim wont last trail/mountain riding at the same altitude.
and it is true that a lean tune at sea level will probably work fine at altitude you wont be anywhere near 170 hp at altitude

It`s not smoke and mirrors. Bin done for yrs. Nut and bolt welded into the stinger is the simplest.

Trouble is, it is very sled and elevation specific. We all get pipes tuned for sea level stock but Cat helps that with their ex valve timing. It changes with elevation. Was that mentioned during the dyno time?
What works at 1000' PROBABLY won't be the same at 7000' but any 2 stroke loves to have the correct pipe pressure.

So just be careful.

that is the point I was trying to make!!

 

[spoon]

No box. Big difference!

Rad valves, .015" thou offset key, restrictor in MBRP can changed primary spring with a Dalton aqua/blk, 70gr stock weights, stock 13 gearing. Was going to put a PCV with timing on but my supplier shipped wrong one twice. Tried it without a box and wow what a difference over stock. Almost feels like a bigbore. Lots more midrange and keeps on pulling on top end. Pulls 8250 rpm consistent with nice engagement. Belt temps ok. Original with 350 miles. Ran a side by side in deep (deep for this year) snow with my friends 2012 that has 2.6 track, lower gearing and updated clutches and no comparison. His sled is next and he might put his old gearing back in. This was at 6000 elevation. 500$ well spent. Just added AFR guage and will monitor A/F next ride. Thanks Dynotech.

 

[Thunder101]

Glad to hear the setup is working . I really am interested in the A/F #.
Nice work on following up on your thread.

 

[Thunder101]

The D&D Y pipe shows gains at DT also. I have one ,just have not installed yet and it is larger diameter at the Y .

 

[spoon]

The D&D Y pipe shows gains at DT also. I have one ,just have not installed yet and it is larger diameter at the Y .

Might have to try that next. I like this low buck stage tuning, makes wrenching more fun.