09 M1000 help needed...feuling?

[hazardiz]

2009 m1000 SnoPro - 162 PC - SLP y/pipe/can - PCV box - 3degree timing key - softer engagement primary spring - CR 38/36 secondary helix - 83 gram weights (supposedly) - 046 belt - BMP feul pressure regulator - AFR gauge - koso dual egts

So since I bought the sled 1.5 years ago it had a speedwerx ypipe and jaws can and no other mods. Powervalves have been cleaned and adjusted to 35mm and cables checked. I have done all the other mods as listed above. So where I am at not (minus a broken telescopic steering post as of yesterday:frusty is that I spin up to 7550-7600 rpm at WOT (need to adjust weight on clutches) and I have a random bog off idle. I added the AFR gauge and BMP feul pressure regulator to try and see what is happening. When the bog happens, the AFR gauge jumps to 17 and just dashes appear on the display and the feul pressure drops from 42 psi (where its set) to 36 psi. It isn't apparent first thing in the morning but as the day goes on it happens more and more. The bog is hard enough to shut the sled off. If I just did a run and come down to turn around and let it idle down it will do it again...I thought it was tuning until I saw the gauges. Now it makes me think either ECU, stator, or feul pump. Could it be the stator because when I get it revved up it rips awesome...but I have not off idle throttle response, making it hard to ride it deep snow in the trees. Any ideas or solutions?

Other question is what EGT temps are guys running in different RPMs approx. Running down the trail I run damn near 1000 degrees at the 4000-5000 rpm. I also have the left cylinder always being hotter by 200-300 degrees when it starts to heat up.

Any one have these issue? what was it? thoughts? thanks.

 

[Arctic Thunder]

I would be interested in the testing of the voltage for the stator myself.

I have a very similar issue with my 09 M1000.

Thunder

 

[hazardiz]

What is the voltage at the stator supposed to be? would you have to give it throttle while test, I assume so. Are there different fields on the stator for different components?

 

[Hardass]

Have you checked your reeds?also just for thought were seeing in different m sleds what appears to be oxidation flaking from inside the fuel system or rail and whatmot. It builds up on the screen inside your fuel injector you need to look real close and even lightly scrape the screen with a tiny screwdriver a gritty substance will come off the screen.this has. Actually cut the flow of fuel to the engine. Just something to check

 

[hazardiz]

I haven't checked reeds yet...Bill from Howies Marine up here (AC dealer) said to check them...but wouldn't it do the bog all the time then? not just intermittently...I will have to check them...any aftermarket ones chip less than factory ones? i've heard the rage cage ones hold up better. Any input?

good info on the screens on the injectors...i was going to swap my injectors left to right so see if my hot temperature switched to the other side but the phillips screws on the feul rail would have stripped when I took them out...will have to wd40 them a bunch and try again...

any word on voltages at stator or ecu or anything? anyone?

 

[redwolf_92]

I am running boyesen power reeds in my setup with fantastic results. Probably less than a thousand miles on them now, but I just checked em an they look great.

 

[hazardiz]

thanks for the input...anyone know voltages or measurable electrical amounts to check fuel system?

 

[Poobrew]

injectors

use a impact screw driver on those screws. dont have to kill them, just need a little help plus the proper tip screw driver. just cleaned my injectors, going to try this weekend. Have the same problem.

 

[hazardiz]

How would dirty injectors cause a drop in feul pressure at the gauge coming out of the tank? I'm going to clean them anyway but wouldn't drop in feul pressure either be dying feul pump or not enough voltage at low idle?

 

[KMMAC]

You may have to check the tps. I think that if it is out of sync. it will start to kill the engine or delay the response which in turn will reduce voltage. At least that;s my understanding and check the tss at the throttle lever as well.. Typically low end bog is no fuel and as sensitive as these efi systems are ANY little thing can upset them... Also check your fuel pump wires at the heat shield on the steering post bracket, I had to change the gas tank and when I was checking wires for rubbing and the like, I noticed the hot lead to the pump had bare wire at a connector near the heat shield, it was close enough that with the right amount of jarring it could have come in contact with said shield.. Truly I think the wisest thing to do ( in the summer ) would be to pull all of the body and pipe, tank and check the complete wiring harness. Then, get all of the little devices sync'd up that have anything to do with the engine. It is a wonder,,, the 800's don't seem to have these problems as much Hmmmmmmmmmm..............

 

[Sledbrain2]

Not sure this will help you but I just went through some starting issues with an 09 1000. I removed pipe and plugs so I could pull engine over easier. I would get 14 to 17 volts at the pump on a hard pull. On the injectors I was getting 8 to 10 volts.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

fuel pressure drop will only happen from:

1 Fuel restriction, smart valves not working, water in tank etc...

2 fuel pressure regulator is not working right (not likely, they rarely go down once they hit pressure unless there is a lack of fuel)

3 pump is bad or not enough voltage, (check wires, grounds, power output)

What are your egts at wot??

 

[Thunder101]

I would be interested in the testing of the voltage for the stator myself.

I have a very similar issue with my 09 M1000.

Thunder

thats were I would look first, here is a scenario you have a EGT, A/F running along with lights acc maybe and your servo goes to open and the draw is to much ??
my tip would be use the egts to tune to be safe and tune with the A/F to fine tune. Then turn them off or,,,, if your like me I just have to look if there on.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

I would never unplug them unless testing, you could unplug them and see if it builds pressure right then you would know your drawing to much power or not from the right place.
Mine have save me from something else going wrong, unplugged and not seeing it it would have cost me a engine

 

[rdr99]

I think I would just turn on the highbeams and high on handwarmers and thumb warmer. That would give you maximum draw, you could trigger the brake light too.