09 crossfire 1000 bog/miss at 6000rpm with speedwerx and SLP pipe/boondocker

[hrc200x]

I have a '09 crossfire 1000 snopro 141 and ride around 1500ft elevation. 1000 miles on it, all stock except D&D y pipe, speedwerx single pipe, boondocker box set at recomended 09 values, has stock silencer, stock clutching. Someone I ride with has the exact same sled with SLP complete pipe kit and boondocker set to the SLP specs, SLP clutch kit and a shim to stop belt squeeling. we both have a bog or miss at around 6000 rpm. Only seems noticable when applying steady throttle. Just seems at 6000rpm it doesn't want to build power for a second, then it will kick in. The sled with the speedwerx pipe boondocker settings are:

(3000) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 (5000) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 (6500) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 (7200) 0 / 0 / 10 / 0 (7500) 0 / 3 / 17 / 0 (7800) 0 / 3 / 17 / 0

Any suggestions?

 

[Rms Rydning]

Out in some numbers in 6500rpm like 3 3 5, And may be you have to put some in the 5000rpm also..

 

[428PONY]

The bog is when the power valve come to full open at 6000rpm- 6500rpm. That is why they keep doing reflashes. A simple solution is to remove power valves with deletes. 1000's do not need them period. Now everyone one will pipe in and call me a fool. I have owned three m1000's with mods and this is the only cure. And know your fuel mileage will not change. Currently ride m1000 with a 174 and extensive mods.

 

[hrc200x]

May have bigger issues... starting up sled cold this morning it started 3rd pull, and slowly died, fired up first pull, looked at the docker box and said "xxx injector error" but sled was running fine. warmed up sled, turned it off and no more error. Took off D&D Y pipe and speedwerx pipe, and installed brand new SLP pipe kit, changed the box settings to SLP's numbers. Tons of power, still a problem area at 6000 rpm, but when it gets past that point its a wheelie machine. Did a couple top end runs and checked box and it said mag injector error, and max rpm in boondocker box said only 5460 or somthing, Dc in/out was 76/76 or 79/79, but I watch the rpm on the stock tach up around 7500, cleared out max rpm. Took it easy on the way home incase it was running lean above 5500 rpm, got close to home and got on it a bit, checked BD box max rpm and it was up in the 7000's somwhere and the DC in/out was 74/76 or so.

Am wondering about a bad injector, loose wire, or faulty boondocker box?

Whats the correct way to check piston wash? Would like to know what its doing at 6000 rpm and higher.

Is it even possible to get spark plugs out with out removing pipe? Not that removing pipe is a big deal, but hate re-siliconing the exhaust doughnuts.

Do the two spark plugs per each cylinder fire at the same time, or does one quit firing at idle/low end but pickup when rpms get higher?

 

[NightfireN2O]

Same Problem

I Recently purchased an '08 Crossfire 1000 SnoPro Nightfire 136 with a full SLP setup V-force 3 reeds Boondocker, D&D helix, '07 M1000 four post primary, and a 100 shot of N2O. Phenominal machine. However, I noticed the EXACT same problem with mine. Hold 1/3 to 1/2 throttle and when the tach hits 6000, it starts to break up. Whack the throttle to the bars, and it goes like a bastard. Boondocker shows no codes, nor does the display. The guy I bought it from says to fatten up the mid RPM settings on the Boondocker. Having read your post not sure this is not the cure. Next time I get a chance I'll post My boondocker numbers. I'll work on mine and between the two of us, I hope we find the fix........Let me know!

 

[hrc200x]

nitefire: Was the guy you got the sled from located somewhat close to madison, WI? If so he seemed like a real nice guy, very knowledgeable. I called on it awhile back. Wonder why that dead spot never bothered him?

I did some tinkering in the -5 degree weather. Swaped clutches between the two sleds I mentioned in the first post. My sled with the "clutched" clutch and full SLP pipe kit, stock air intake reved to 8280 rpm according to the boondocker and 79xx on the stock tach. stock clutch put onto the other sled with complete SLP pipe kit and SLP intake revved to 78xx on the stock tach and 76xx on the box.

Now there is more discrepencies. One sleds box shows higher revs than the stock tach, and the other sleds box shows lower revs than the stock tach. Makes it difficult to troubleshoot.

Am hoping to add more numbers to 5000 and 6500 and see if that helps. The "clutched" clutch seemed to do away with the dead spot though, but not as impressive of power.

Mine seems to run real rich right now. A trail we go on we need to drive probably less than 10 mph for a couple miles, it comes out on a unplowed road where you can open the throttle and after that its loaded up bad.

When do you plan on messing with yours?

 

[NightfireN2O]

Yeah thats the guy, very helpful - I will prolly be running mine this aft, not sure if I'll get a chance to tweak on it, but I think he never really held that RPM much, as he only rode the UP area, and raced it.

 

[hrc200x]

Bump for an old post. Is anyone else having this issue? Tried a quick search and nothing really stuck out, so figured I'd bring this one back and see.

My BD box is mounted ontop of the air box, so adjusting it isn't as easy as if it was out next to the driver.

I did put in some numbers and think both at 5000 and 6500 and it seemed to help, but it appears to not pull quite as hard.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

It could be the bd box, mine was giving error codes and I sent it to bd for a reflash and has not done it since, some of the older boxes needed it done. I have never had this happen unless it was the PV. What oil do you run, might want to clean PV and adjust them. You also may have to remove some fuel. Do you have egts, it could tell you a lot on what is going on.

 

[hrc200x]

I've tried two different BD boxes, my cousins sled with the same setup does the same thing, and over on HCS many people complain of the same problem. I run Amsoil. I clean PV's every year, adjusted cables when I got the sled with 1000 miles on it, now has 2200. I bought sled and put pipe and BD box on almost right away. It almost seems like a lean bog, but since I added some positive numbers at the 5000 and 6500 rpm LO MED and HIGH settings seemed to help the bog but doesn't seem as responsive, so maybe only one number helped the bog and the rest hindered normal performance. Don't have EGT's.

You didn't notice any hesitation/miss/bog around 6000rpm on your 1000 with slp/BD? Did you set it to what numbers SLP wanted?

What are the exhaust cables ment to be set at? Was it like 1 3/8 inch sticking out or somthing?

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Info on PV length.

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=250952&highlight=PV+length

The pipe sensor runs the mapping at 6000-6200 rpm. It has to do with emissions, it runs very hot in that range and if you add fuel it will only cause a problem in that range, if you add fuel it can cause the sled to lean out even farther than normal because its trying to correct your over ride, if you remove fuel it could add fuel. Its a pain in the arse. You need egts to be able to tell whats going on, Most pipes are more efficient in the mid range than the stock one and usually require you remove fuel. Make small adjustments one at a time until you find something. the biggest challenge is when the PV open it goes back to the normal mapping and dumps fuel which can cause a problem also. The sensor can also effect timing and if there is to abrupt of a change it might take a second to catch up. Best thing you can do is get some egts, then call racinstation and see if he has a PCV map for low elevation and get one.