05 fusion 900, idles low, lights flicker & no reverse

[Racing_joe66]

Ok guys, I just bought a 2005 fusion 900 from a kid. I haven't had a chance to check it over but briefly when I bought it tonight. 1st thing I checked was compression and it was good @ 145-150 psi per cyl. fired it up and you had to hold the throttle open a little to keep it ideling or it would quit. the lights and MFD would keep flickering off and on and the tach would keep maxing out then going back to 0 and also the brake light wasn't working or the reverse.

the kid said this all started Friday last week when a belt stretched on him and some of the belt broke off. and after he got home and went to restart it the next day it had all these issues.

any suggestions?

 

[Cerialsledder]

Check the wiring. I would like to give the kid the benefit of the doubt but it's acting exactly like mine did when the stator went out on it.

 

[Racing_joe66]

that stator has crossed my mind. I just went out and fired it up. it idles 950-1000 by itself. it won't go into reverse unless i increase the rpms up to about 1300 rpm. if i do that it will go in and out. still no brake light.

if i reve the seld up and let it come back down the lights and gauge will all go out and then the gauge will restart.

For $920.00 bucks I am not going to complain.

I know I need to pull the seat and tank off, so how do I exactly test the stator? I have a complete spare motor that I can steal the stator off.

thanks

also how do I change the stator if that is the issue?

 

[Cerialsledder]

that stator has crossed my mind. I just went out and fired it up. it idles 950-1000 by itself. it won't go into reverse unless i increase the rpms up to about 1300 rpm. if i do that it will go in and out. still no brake light.

if i reve the seld up and let it come back down the lights and gauge will all go out and then the gauge will restart.

For $920.00 bucks I am not going to complain.

I know I need to pull the seat and tank off, so how do I exactly test the stator? I have a complete spare motor that I can steal the stator off.

thanks

also how do I change the stator if that is the issue?

that idle seems really low!! Mine after it warms up sits at around 1650 to 1700 when it idles. I would adjust the tps and make sure everything is in sync before the stator. Sorry for shooting that out first. There is a nice post in the stickes above that will show ya how to set your tps and I believe build your own tester. I know I made my own from radio shack parts and its nice to have.

 

[Racing_joe66]

I have a friend that has a tester, will check that out tomm. I went out this afternoon and was looking over the sled and fired it up again. it would idle around 1250 and when I would rev it up, the rpms seems to be lagging with with the actual rpms where. and then also if i reved it up and let off the throttle quick a few times the motor would idle and a couple times the sled just shut right off.

also noticed a few times when all the lights would go off and then come back on, the battery light would only be like 2 bars and maybe the next time it would be around 6 bars.

 

[Racing_joe66]

I just checked the TPS I think it's good.
idle 0.94 volts
WOT 4.26 volts

someone told me that @ WOT I should see 4.6 - 5.0 volts?

 

[05900]

TPS ck .. Idle screw setting and wether the sync has been tampered with..
Check wiring harness(es) Throttle cable/switches

 

[Racing_joe66]

I just pulled the seat & the tank off so I could check the stator. All 3 yellow wires ohm out @ 1.0 / 1.1 ohms and nothing when done to ground. So I would assume the stator is good. The brown/white wire from the stator also checked out to nothing when done to ground.

http://backcountryrebels.com/showthread.php?t=2445

I went by this when checking the stator.

The only wire I can tell that is bad is the orange wire for the bake light under the seat, it was wore through for about 2/1/2 inches, so I would say its safe to assume I found my brake light issues. But I doubt this could be causing all the other lights cutting in and out.

I have been told that more than likely it is the voltage regulator is bad.

Any suggestions?

 

[Cerialsledder]

unplug your hand warmers, there was some problems in those areas with the kill switch and the hand warmers shorting out.

 

[Racing_joe66]

Is there a way to Ohm out the kill switch? I know the left side hand warmer works but the right side doesn't and the thumb warmer does work. The kid I got it from hit a tree branch before the issue with it as well and broke the windshield on that side along with orange kill switch cover as part of the top of the kill switch is missing. I don't think the kid was fully honest with me on what happened. But there was a tiny tree branch underneath the adjustable handle bar mover still.

so it could be possible it could be the kill switch.

 

[Racing_joe66]

Ok just went back outside and checked over the sled a little better.

The right side handwarmer isn't working cause the the grip is ripped from when the kit hit a tree branch or something and it cut into the heat grid there.

The brake light isn't working because of the orange wire being frayed underneath the fuel tank.

TPS, Capaciator, Stator all check out fine. So now need to put the fuel tank back on and check out the Voltage Regulator.

The main reason I went back out tonight was the pull off the relay by the TPS and check that for corrosion and sure enough there was corosion on it.
Prong 87 had the most then 30 had the 2nd worst and then 86. the 4th prong #85 was clean as a whistle.

Maybe it's just the relay which would be nice.

 

[Racing_joe66]

Found a post about the 2 pin test plug for the lights & dash to bypass the relay. I went out and did that and they all light up nice and solid. So going to clean the relay and its connections tomm and put it back in and see what that does after I get the fuel tank back on.

 

[Racing_joe66]

Ok so I bench tested the relay and it tested good. I cleaned it and the connector and put it back in the sled and put the fuel tank back on. Sled did the same thing.

So then I put power to the bypass plug and boom, everything works just fine.

So safe to assume the relay is bad?

 

[Racing_joe66]

UPDATE----

Got a new relay put in tonight and fixed the issue!!!!

Brake light still doesn't work or even on the dash. And no power to the back and bulbs are good.

 

[05900]

NICE work ! Chase wires forward from rear connector to next..etc?
did you fix orange wire ? loose connection around seat/tank?

 

[guidoxpress]

Iva had a brake pressure switch go bad (it's inside the control housing behind the brake lever, push button type)


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[DAG3]

Ok guys, I just bought a 2005 fusion 900 from a kid. I haven't had a chance to check it over but briefly when I bought it tonight. 1st thing I checked was compression and it was good @ 145-150 psi per cyl. fired it up and you had to hold the throttle open a little to keep it ideling or it would quit. the lights and MFD would keep flickering off and on and the tach would keep maxing out then going back to 0 and also the brake light wasn't working or the reverse.

the kid said this all started Friday last week when a belt stretched on him and some of the belt broke off. and after he got home and went to restart it the next day it had all these issues.

any suggestions?

UPDATE----

Got a new relay put in tonight and fixed the issue!!!!

Brake light still doesn't work or even on the dash. And no power to the back and bulbs are good.

I have the exact same issue with my 06 fusion 700. What relay is it that Joe is talking about, and where is it? I looked by the TPS, and don't see one in there