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Arctic Cat: 1M 2001-2005, all models in the Mountain Cat / 1M chassis
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Old 11-25-2017, 04:37 PM
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Default mountain cat spindle steering radius

Been awhile since I rode my 04 Mountain cat and noticed right away that the steering throw on this sled is really short. Skis only turn so far until steering arm hits the spindle stop.
Is there any alternative spindle from another model that give more steering throw?
Anyone tried grinding the stops a bit?
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Old 11-26-2017, 11:34 AM
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Is yours a welded tab at the bottom side, or is it the depressed stamped type? I have ground the welded bottom side ones since one side turns less than the other, which was a known problem with those. The depressed stop are equal. When I ground down I think maybe it is at the end of the steering travel? Otherwise you would have to weld up the hole,and drill a hole further in, but you would loose leverage.
The depressed stamped type on the KK is the tightest turning spindles of the 1M line. I wonder if a M series race spindle will mount up with modifications to arm ends? But I don't know if they even turn tighter? Mike
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Old 11-26-2017, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 1Mike900 View Post
Is yours a welded tab at the bottom side, or is it the depressed stamped type? I have ground the welded bottom side ones since one side turns less than the other, which was a known problem with those. The depressed stop are equal. When I ground down I think maybe it is at the end of the steering travel? Otherwise you would have to weld up the hole,and drill a hole further in, but you would loose leverage.
The depressed stamped type on the KK is the tightest turning spindles of the 1M line. I wonder if a M series race spindle will mount up with modifications to arm ends? But I don't know if they even turn tighter? Mike
Pretty soon after that you're going to run into the issue where the bottom of the steering post has stops that hit the bulkhead as well.
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Old 11-26-2017, 12:12 PM
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I was hoping you would chime in on this.
Mine are the 03.5 spindles I will take a look a bottom post stops but I think I'm OK there. Running post forward, zrt engine, with pods. I'm sure I could shim the bottom mount if needed. From what I can see it is maxing out on the spindle stop. I might start by grinding the stop a little.
Didn't the zr sno pro have a spindle with a removable steering arm?
I think I know where I can round up some 04 KC spindles to try out.
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Old 11-26-2017, 03:15 PM
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Better off grinding the stops until the ctr. bell crank hits. The KK spindles don't turn any tighter and has no where to grind unless you grind thru and weld up the top ctr. depression. You maybe able to grind the ctr. bell crank along with the spindles to achieve a tighter turning rad? I took the extra set of KK spindles and lightened them further by grinding all the sharp edges to a full rad. and ground on the lower ski attachment welds. I also ground and rad. the upper bell crank since it was wider than the 03.5 set that came off. The paint was horrible to sand and polish off, took a week after work for about 2 hrs. ea., evening. My next step is to take the 03.5's and sand off the bell crank welds and shorten the top section and mount the tie rod on top. I made my own titanium tie rods with inner swaged/bonded alum. tube inside. I have countless hrs. in this sled lightening and modding thru the yrs. I will never be able to get rid of it. Never!
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Old 11-26-2017, 05:32 PM
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I think I have it all figured out now. I took a carbide and ground some off the aluminum stop on the spindle. It didn't take much to gain over 4" steering at the ski tips.
It is still hitting at the spindle stops before maxing out anywhere else in the system so should be good to go.
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Old 11-27-2017, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Mike900 View Post
Better off grinding the stops until the ctr. bell crank hits. The KK spindles don't turn any tighter and has no where to grind unless you grind thru and weld up the top ctr. depression. You maybe able to grind the ctr. bell crank along with the spindles to achieve a tighter turning rad? I took the extra set of KK spindles and lightened them further by grinding all the sharp edges to a full rad. and ground on the lower ski attachment welds. I also ground and rad. the upper bell crank since it was wider than the 03.5 set that came off. The paint was horrible to sand and polish off, took a week after work for about 2 hrs. ea., evening. My next step is to take the 03.5's and sand off the bell crank welds and shorten the top section and mount the tie rod on top. I made my own titanium tie rods with inner swaged/bonded alum. tube inside. I have countless hrs. in this sled lightening and modding thru the yrs. I will never be able to get rid of it. Never!

One comment on this plan. Unless you're offsetting the arm, mounting the tie rod on top of the arm instead of the bottom changes the geometry of the steering, and will result in the tie rod no longer being parallel to the A-Arm. You want it parallel so it minimizes bump steer.

I think it was fabcraft who used to make an aluminum spindle shaft. We have a set on one of our sleds. I'm pretty sure they turn tighter than stock.
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Old 12-03-2017, 01:49 AM
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Absolutely correct, when I do this I plan on cutting the top arm off and shortening the top of the spindle housing and shaft. I will make sure it is back parallel! I have raised the front about 3" higher than stock, and front end has over 10" travel with the aftermarket shocks. I removed all the thru bolts at the A arm mounts to the chassis, and replaced with custom swaged hollow aluminum shafts/bushings all anodized and dry moly coated. At ea. end titanium bolts installed with custom aluminum washers. I will never have those thru bolts anywhere in the suspension front or back! I had to cut one upper front out after numerous tries with every wedge I could create, I am surprised I didn't bend the
bulkhead plate in the back! These chassis are strong in that area! Everything front and back has turned into a custom fastener and tie rod combo, thanks to working at a swaging shop for the last 40 yrs. I can make what ever I want from custom hollow drive shafts to hollow cross shafts etc... Basically made from 7075 heat trtd to -T73 for stress corrosion cracking, and 2024 HT to -T42, and yes I do have quite a few stock removed parts if anyone needs anything to keep one of these ol'e girls running!

Thanks Mike

Thanks Mike
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