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Arctic Cat: 1M 2001-2005, all models in the Mountain Cat / 1M chassis
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Old 11-20-2017, 12:13 AM
Jugernot Jugernot is offline
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Default 2003 Mountain Cat 900 with no steering

So, I happened upon a 2003 Arctic Cat Mountain 900 yesterday and long story short... I ended up buying it sight unseen for $500.

I got there today and handlebars were not connected to skis or steering linkage. From the looks of it, it looks like there is a washer/nut missing from the linkage to the bottom of the steering column. If so, how would one get the linkage to connect it up? It's directly under the engine with only around .75" of space to get to it... can I remove the pan under the engine (basically drill out the pop rivets, etc) to access the steering components? I sure hope the engine doesn't need to come out to put a single nut on the linkage?

Here is a video I took showing the two parts disconnected:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/rJhOmgI57jvJu8Xw2

Sorry for terrible angles, but I just can't get a great angle. First part of the video is the steering column moving freely... second part was me moving the ski linkage. There is a hole on far side (you can't see it in video) on the steering column knuckle that has a perfectly size hole for that linkage bolt. Seems to be too convenient not to mate up?

A bit of background on the sled (after I just said long story short above... ). The seller was a landlord who was tired of looking after a ex tenants snowmobile for the past 3 years. She'd been asking him to pick it up and he was blowing her off and basically abandoned it. She said "I just want it gone!" ... I asked if it ran and she said "Yes, my son started last year but noticed oil under the hood, so didn't want to run it long." Sure enough, it had some oil under the hood, but the tank was still full, so I'm guessing the previous owner was just shaky when filling because it seems like it's in decent shape. All fluids are where they should be (coolant, crank case, 2 cycle oil) The crank moves fine and all seems to be in good order other than a broken pull starter cord and steering.

I bought it as a project and figured worse comes to worse, it's seized up and I'd be a be able to do my first bottom to top engine rebuild! So far it does NOT look like it's seized up at all, but the previous owner didn't know how to fix the steering, so just stopped riding it. Hopefully this is a win for me?

Edit: so I'm sure this is the correct connection. Anyone know the size of nut I'd need? Looks very finely threaded... Would a Teflon but be suitable?

Last edited by Jugernot; 11-20-2017 at 01:14 AM.
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Old 11-20-2017, 10:26 AM
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The center bellypan section (#6 below) should come off with just some screws, no rivets. Unless someone put it on wrong...



You can get to that bolt from underneath, may even find the original nut floating around down there. (#16 below)



https://www.countrycat.com/arctic-ca...2003-175/58923

Parts diagram says nut should be 3/8-24 NF.
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Last edited by Idcatman3; 11-20-2017 at 10:31 AM.
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Old 11-20-2017, 10:38 PM
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Sweet. It has definitely been taken off before... as there are 4 normal looking screws in it and the rest of the 20 or so are pop rivets.

Guess I'll start drilling em out and get to work!

EDIT: Ok, so it appears to have a second thicker skid plate attached to the center belly pan. This is the plate that was pop riveted on... I drilled through all rivets and removed all screws in the center bellypan to find exact what I needed and as you described Idcatman3. Just need to buy a nut tomorrow and I should be good to go! Any reason I can't use a teflon nut? From what I can tell the factory nuts are sort of... crimped on. I guess teflon is better than nothing.

Last edited by Jugernot; 11-20-2017 at 11:39 PM.
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Old 11-21-2017, 02:21 PM
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If you're talking about a self-locking Teflon nut you should be ok. The Arctic Cat nut is self-locking too, just a different type.
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Old 11-21-2017, 11:52 PM
Jugernot Jugernot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sprockethead View Post
If you're talking about a self-locking Teflon nut you should be ok. The Arctic Cat nut is self-locking too, just a different type.

Yep, nylon locking nut. I put one on tonight and it seems like it'll work just fine. I was worried about the height of the nut and whether it was going to grip the threads (as they are fairly short). I did in fact find the factory nut, but didn't want to put it back on as it's already come off once.

I'm thinking now that I should have probably put some thread sealant on them... perhaps a red to make sure it doesn't back off again.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 12-11-2017, 01:08 PM
Chief3Jeeps Chief3Jeeps is offline
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Default Steering

You may want to use self tappers upon reassembly... I have to tighten up that steering nut annually as it will loosen with aggressive riding and yanking on the steering stem... Good Luck! Awesome sleds.
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Old 01-09-2018, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chief3Jeeps View Post
You may want to use self tappers upon reassembly... I have to tighten up that steering nut annually as it will loosen with aggressive riding and yanking on the steering stem... Good Luck! Awesome sleds.
I ended up putting locktite red with nylon locking nut on it. Haven't had a chance to take it out yet, but hoping it'll be fine. I'll take off the skid plates next summer and check it out.

Thanks!
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