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Polaris: Pro-Ride 2010 and up, all models in the Pro-Ride chassis
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  #1  
Old 01-07-2015, 11:09 AM
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Lightbulb UPGRADED ARP BOLTS FOR THE QUICKDRIVE PULLEYS.

Polaris does not want you to re-use the pulley bolts... for a good reason.

Quote:
Polaris MY 14 Service manual
Do not use original fasteners.
Use new fasteners during assembly.
Bolt wise... On the last couple of QD sleds I've put togehter... I've used ARP 8740 Crome Moly bolts on the bottom and top pulley.

The Quality control on ARP fasteners is some of the best in the industry. Much better than bolts even from Fastenal or McMaster etc...

IMO, these are the absolute best bolts you can get for the QuickDrive pulleys.

Pricey... but then you will have some for your friends too.

Just get em...

You will need also some Blue Loctite and brake cleaner spray.

I highly recommend buying a cheap 10mm x 1.25 tap at the hardware store to clean out the old Loctite from the internal threads on the jack/drive shafts.

Clean the oil residue from the bolt threads and the threads in the jackshaft and driveshaft with brake cleaner... and let it dry well.... THEN use the blue Loctite.

DO NOT GET THE BRAKE CLEANER ON YOUR QUICKDRIVE BELT !

Quote:
From MY2014 Serivice manalNOTE: Do not use the belleville (domed) washer
used on 2013 vehicles when installing the kit. Use
the flat washer, Polaris PN 7556800, when installing
the upper sprocket and bolt.
Lock the brake lever to hold the shafts after you install the belts and snug down the bolts part way

Torque the bolts to 45-47 ft-lbs.

NOTE:
These ARP bolts are black oxide coated...They will rust.
I clean the heads with brake cleaner... and then give them a quick coating of Rustoleum "Cold Galvanize"... get it at your hardware store... and it comes in handy for other stuff as well... You could also paint them with some clear or colored paint.

BoeShield™ also works well for this and is also good to have on hand.
CLICK HERE BoeShield™

I am aware that ARP offers Stainless bolts in the same size... but they do not have the same high strength properties as the 4730 bolts.

Quote:
ARP:
8740 CHROME MOLY: Until the development of today’s modern alloys, chrome moly was popularly considered a high strength material. Now viewed as only moderate strength, 8740 chrome moly is seen as a good tough steel, with adequate fatigue properties for most racing applications, but only if the threads are rolled after heat-treatment, as is the standard ARP production practice. Typically, chrome moly is classified as a quench and temper steel, that can be heat-treated to deliver tensile strengths between 180,000 and 210,000 psi.

What is the difference between 4130 and 8740 chrome moly?
Both are alloy steels with similar chemistry. The 4130 has only .3% carbon and can’t be hardened as high as 8740, which has .4% carbon. Also, 8740 has about .45% nickel and 4130 has none. Both have moly (most alloy steels have moly). The chromium content of 4130 is slightly higher, .95% instead of .55% (for the 8740). However, 8740 is generally considered to have slightly better toughness due to the nickel.
Bottom 2013/2014/2015
2013 TOP


NOTE: The 2013 PRO RMK with QuickDrive™ uses the SAME BOLT on the top and bottom pulleys.
The 2014 and 2015 are the model year PRO's with different bolts top and bottom.
YOU WILL ONLY NEED THIS ONE BOLT FOR THE TOP AND BOTTOM ON THE 2013 whereas the 2014/15 uses both bolts.

AND


ARP-663-1001
Bolts, Hex Head, Chromoly Steel, Black Oxide, 10mm x 1.25 RH Thread, 20mm UHL
http://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts/arp-663-1001




Top 2014/2015

NOTE: 2014 & 2015 REQUIRE this different LONGER top bolt, It still uses the shorter lower bolt as well.
The 2013 does NOT need this longer bolt... It uses TWO of the shorter bolts immediately above.

ARP-663-1005
Hex Head, Chromoly Steel, Black Oxide, 10mm x 1.25 RH Thread, 40mm UHL
http://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts/arp-663-1005











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  #2  
Old 01-07-2015, 12:01 PM
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Lightbulb NordLock™

I no longer recommend the NordLock washers on the driveshaft...

Here's what I'm going with.

Clean the bolt with brake cleaner... even if new... clean the threads in the shafts with a tap (cheap at your local hardware store)... and blow out with brake cleaner... Let dry and then apply liberal amounts of the blue liquid loctite.


I don't recommend these any longer

Quote:
Rather than using locktite on these... I usually install Nordlock™ locking washers.

Once you have the pulleys off ... you can chase the threads in the shafts.... blow them out with some brake cleaner. Clean all the residue of locking compound off the bolts.

Then, install the bolt, using anti-sieze compound... with the Nordlock™ and the stock washer under that.

Now...When you are removing the pulleys... it's much easier and faster to do.

These are actually more effective than using locktite to keep the bolts from vibrating loose... but with the added benefit of easy disassembly.

The size is listed as "3/8" but works with M10 fasteners.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#91074a131/=vd3yz3











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  #3  
Old 01-07-2015, 12:03 PM
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I talked with Summit Racing...They, nor others for that matter, normally stock these fasteners.

Summit WILL drop ship from the mfg... at a super reasonable price...

If you have the time.. the normal processing is an option as well.

But make sure you call them

(800)230-3030, Option #4, ext 6165, Gus has the details on his desk.

See the above post for relavant part #'s ... making sure you have the right ones for your year.



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Old 01-09-2015, 03:03 AM
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Default

Lastly...

On the 2013's ... they ran a belleville (domed) washer on the QuickDrive™ pulley retainer bolts... Do NOT re-use them.

These washers were changed for the 2014 & 2015 MY to the same size...but not beveled (domed)

You should be able to get a thick flat washer, of similar size from your auto parts store... Or Polaris, PN 7556800

Quote:
From MY2014 Serivice manalNOTE: Do not use the belleville (domed) washer
used on 2013 vehicles when installing the kit. Use
the flat washer included with the kit when installing
the upper sprocket and bolt.



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  #5  
Old 01-09-2015, 07:27 AM
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Why would someone go through all of that when Polaris supplies new bolts, loctite already on the threads, ready to install, with the replacement belt? Since the '14 update I have not been seeing any failures.
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Old 01-09-2015, 09:16 AM
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Have you ever changed a track? Need to remove the pulleys to do that so not everyone that removes pulleys is changing the belt...
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Old 01-09-2015, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CO Powder View Post
Why would someone go through all of that when Polaris supplies new bolts, loctite already on the threads, ready to install, with the replacement belt? Since the '14 update I have not been seeing any failures.
CO Powder.

You bring up a good point... but I've found that to be not true across the board...

You are right... Polaris supplies a decent fastener in the kits with the belts... but there are plenty of 2011/2012/2013's out there without upgraded bolts...
And those have the smaller upper bolt in the jackshaft that you must run unless you replace the jackshaft.

MOST people will not have a bolt failure... this is extra peace of mind for those that want it.


I've personally seen some broken bolts on the 14's and another reader on here, Anthony Oberti had it happen to his 2015... and I've received PM's from some readers with 2014's and 1 more 2015 with a broken bottom bolt.

For me... It is peace of mind... what is the ride time worth?? and as Tdorval said... some people aren't simply replacing belts.

The ARP bolt is a higher quality fastener than the factory...that's why I used it on this critical component.



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Old 01-09-2015, 08:20 PM
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I see the top bolt part#'s for a 2014 but not the bottom pulley. Which one breaks, top are bottom?
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Old 01-09-2015, 08:27 PM
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Live2.... I listed the first of the two bolts above as...

Quote:
Bottom 2013/2014/2015

AND

2013 TOP
ARP-663-1001
Bolts, Hex Head, Chromoly Steel, Black Oxide, 10mm x 1.25 RH Thread, 20mm UHL
http://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts/arp-663-1001
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Old 01-19-2015, 10:32 AM
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Old 01-19-2015, 11:41 AM
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