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Polaris: GEN 2 1999-2001, all models in the Gen 2 chassis
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Old 11-08-2014, 11:21 PM
alaska_guy alaska_guy is offline
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Default Project 2001 RMK 700 Rebuild.

So I bought a barely running sled that sounded pretty bad, but it did start and run and move under its own power. 90PSI PTO side, 130 NON PTO Side.

Got it home tonight, drained some of the coolant so I could take the heads off and look at the top of the pistons and see what damage was done.

Luckily the heads look fine, the jugs actually don't look too bad... I am hoping I can just hone them and throw in new pistons. Wont know until tomorrow when I remove the jugs completely.

Here is a short clip of the side of the pistons... Looking in the exhaust ports.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEHJmDDKMk8

Here are some pictures with the heads removed...





I can already tell it was run really lean as there is zero piston wash... Interested to look at the bottom of the piston crown and see what that tells me. First thing I will be doing is going up two jet sizes.

Any tips to get the front two bolts removed from the jugs? Can't get a socket in there, my wrenches hit the case... Im thinking of buying a cheap 9/16" wrench and grinding it down so there isnt much metal left so I can unbolt that nut... But there has to be something I am missing... I would assume those have torque specs.

Last edited by alaska_guy; 11-09-2014 at 02:25 AM.
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Old 11-09-2014, 07:40 PM
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I was able to just use wrenches. As far as torque make sure you follow the torque specs as best as you can or you will end up pitying new base gaskets in like I did. You can't really torque with the regular wrench so I just did the best I could and everything was fine
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Old 11-09-2014, 08:00 PM
alaska_guy alaska_guy is offline
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Got everything apart and had my mechanic buddy look at it. He said the jugs are salvageable, but one of the jugs may beyond the point of honing... So maybe a .20 over kit may be in my future. I could feel the grooves with my finger nail. Ran way too lean for sure. The top ring on the PTO side was seized.

I am going to take my jugs to a local machine shop and get them done right. The bottom end seems to be ok (whew).

Going to go with a SPI kit.

Both pistons had some seize marks, but overall they weren't horrible. Could have been MUCH worse.

Here is a picture of the piston at 90PSI. Most the damage was on the exhaust port on both pistons... This one being really bad, and the other just some light scratches.


Last edited by alaska_guy; 11-09-2014 at 08:06 PM.
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Old 11-09-2014, 09:14 PM
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That stuck ring was probably the cause is the low compression I'm sure. Glad to hear your fixing it right. The scratches on the exhaust port side are pretty typical of any mirror I've ever taken apart. Sometimes they are just worse than others.
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Old 11-09-2014, 11:08 PM
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hows the waterpump?
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Old 11-09-2014, 11:21 PM
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May be able to get the jugs renikasiled(sp?), will probably need renik'd if bored out at all also. I don't know how you would check it with the engine apart, but might want to check out the pto crank seal. On a 99 I had I lost the pto side piston and everything else appeared good so I slapped a new piston and jug on it and a short time later it ate the piston again. I did some investigating and found I had a blown crank seal so split the case and the bearings on the pto side of the crank were also toast so had to have the crank rebuilt also. Not tryin to scare you, it may just be a piston. just sayin do as much investigating as you can while its apart to prevent possible future problems.
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Old 11-09-2014, 11:45 PM
alaska_guy alaska_guy is offline
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The motor is still in the sled... Never removed an engine from a sled before... How difficult is it to remove the actual motor? Do I need to remove the chain case gears, the clutch etc? I agree, it could very well be a crank seal or bearing, but no oil was in the tub, like something was leaking...

If its not hard to remove the motor I will give that a shot.
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Old 11-10-2014, 01:12 AM
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There's usually little to no leaking with a bad crank seal but they can suck in air through the seal causing a lean condition. Pulling the motor is not gonna show you much as far as a bad crank seal, you might could pull the clutch and look at the seal and see if there's any sign of slight seepage or what not coming out around the crank. That being said that particular sled is pretty easy to get the motor out. The motor will be bolted to either an aluminum plate or two straps that then bolt to the chassis with two bolts in front of and two in back of the engine. Remove those bolts, the belt, exhaust, carbs and the wiring connected to the mag side and it comes right out. The belt is the only connection between the engine and the rest of the drive train so no need to mess with any of that.
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Old 11-10-2014, 12:48 PM
alaska_guy alaska_guy is offline
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Thanks. I will try and get the motor out tonight and split the case...

I looked at my cylinders closer today and they have been ported and polished. The intake runners have been knife edged and polished and the exhaust ports have been ported and polished... He was running twin pipes as well.. No wonder the thing was ran so lean.

Since they have been ported and polished the machine shop wont do anything. They say there is no such thing as a .20 over pistons for this motor and they can only hone one cylinder because the other one is past.

So basically they want $250 to send out one cylinder to get re-nicked to the stock piston diameter again and hone out the other cylinder... Sounds like high way robbery to me... I guess they use diamond hones too, which will eat that nickel like no ones business.

So anyone have any suggestions of a place I can send my cylinders to that does good work and doesn't charge an arm and a leg? I can hone the one cylinder, its not rocket science with a flex hone.

I emailed hiperf.com Because their site shows they sell a .020 over kit...

http://www.hiperf.com/acatalog/700cc.html

So confused.

Last edited by alaska_guy; 11-10-2014 at 06:06 PM.
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Old 11-10-2014, 07:18 PM
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:08 PM
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:23 PM
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Old 11-11-2014, 12:24 AM
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:35 AM
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Old 11-12-2014, 04:14 PM
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Old 11-12-2014, 11:03 PM
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Old 11-13-2014, 09:15 AM
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Old 11-14-2014, 01:32 AM
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Old 11-14-2014, 11:36 AM
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Old 11-14-2014, 02:36 PM
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Old 11-14-2014, 04:28 PM
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Old 11-14-2014, 10:16 PM
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:52 PM
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