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Rear skid relocation

oldcrow

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Dec 13, 2007
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Central MN
When taking my 12 High Country in the powder I found it to be twitchy and hard to roll over.
I dropped the skid the 3/4" to 13 specs and found that to be much more predictable.

Late last winter I installed a 1.6 cobra track and moved the skid back to 12
specs for racing around the trails in northern MN; my reason lower center of gravity and better handling. Doing so I found the sled to again be twitchy and hard to roll over in the powder.

I'm thinking about dropping the skid again but now I see AC has move the skid back 3/4" from the 13 specs

What can I expect if I were to go to 14 specs?
Anyone have some time on a 14?
 
L

leadfoot33

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Aug 31, 2010
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Prince George BC
there was some info on t his forum about that (another company made a piece to do this) i believe it was to make it climb better and such (takes some ski lift away) i myself will not be doing that mod, i like the way it handles with the 13 setup
(i ride a 2012 pro climb not the high country)
 

boondocker97

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If I remember right the 14 location was supposed to help it get up on top of the snow better. Might help with straight line stability by making the footprint longer.

I think if you wanted to try it you would have to add a bracket to the rear mounting point. Not enough material in the factory drop bracket on the 12's and 13's to re-drill the hole further back.
 
We offer a rear skid relocation bracket for the Pro Climb. The reason for this bracket is to flatten out the attack angle of the track which get the sled on top of the snow much faster. They also reduce trenching and really improves the sled in the backcountry. If you have not fixed the steering yet that is also strongly suggested on the '12s. www.mvminc.biz

Thanks,
Dean
 
Last edited:

oldcrow

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Dec 13, 2007
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Central MN
I seen this but correct me if I'm wrong, this moves the skid back from the 12 specs.
The 14's move the skid back from the lower 13 specs

My goal is to minimize what I call twitchy feeling.
Say I'm carving to either side, if I pull the sled over a little bit then a little more and then all of a sudden I'm doing a 90° turn
 

boondocker97

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I don't know if you are ever going to completely get rid of those handling characteristics with a 1.6 track and the wide front end. Once the sled rolls up on edge it lifts a lot of the track out of the snow and with only a 1.6 paddle it doesn't have much to hold. I would try playing with your rear shock settings to see if you can get a little more traction back there. Moving the skid back to the 14 location might help slightly.
 
Z

Zone28M7

Well-known member
Sep 28, 2009
695
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Louviers, CO
We offer a rear skid relocation bracket for the Pro Climb. The reason for this bracket is to flatten out the attack angle of the track which get the sled on top of the snow much faster. They also reduce trenching and really improves the sled in the backcountry. If you have not fixed the steering yet that is also strongly suggested on the '12s. www.mvminc.biz

Thanks,
Dean

Do you have some closer up pics of the installation of both products? The videos are pretty hard to see.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
S
Jan 28, 2011
473
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Upper Peninsula
I don't know if you are ever going to completely get rid of those handling characteristics with a 1.6 track and the wide front end. Once the sled rolls up on edge it lifts a lot of the track out of the snow and with only a 1.6 paddle it doesn't have much to hold. I would try playing with your rear shock settings to see if you can get a little more traction back there. Moving the skid back to the 14 location might help slightly.

The high country has the 141x2.25x15 powerclaw..................
 

boondocker97

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Right. I just assumed he kept the 1.6 track on it after he put it on, and that track wasn't going to help things when the sled is rolled up.
 

boondocker97

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The '14 is moved back from the '13 location. The '14 location ends up lower and further back than the '12's
 
I

izzni

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Mar 22, 2009
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Vadnais Heights
I have heard the 13 location was mostly about more track clearance for the new track. It just happened to perform better.
 
G
Jan 18, 2012
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SO i have a 2012 that i dropped the front down 3/4" (20mm) to help get up on the snow.... so NOW your saying i can drill another hole and mount it 20mm back from the 2013 location then add the MVM rear bracket?
ANYONE THAT HAS USED THESE??? ON A HIGHCOUNTRY?? chime in
 
J

jake432

Well-known member
Sep 25, 2010
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Twin Cities, Minnesota
I just dropped the front skid 3/4 in and then used the mvm piece and moved it to the top spot on the mvm peice and it climbs up and out of the snow dam good
 
G
Jan 18, 2012
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JAKE can we get some pictures of that.... and just didnt decide to slide it to the back hole orrr didnt want to weaken your tunnel and drill a 3rd hole?
SRY im a visual person :p
 

High Life

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Nov 27, 2007
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SW Montana
Maybe i'm wrong here, but wouldn't lowering the front skid mount 3/4" make the attack angle steeper, therefore making it LESS likely to climb on top of the snow and "plane out?" I'm guessing the 2.6" track on the '13 is the main reason the sled feels like it climbs out on top of the snow better than the '12.

I picked up a 2013 M800 this summer and am thinking about trying the upper front hole instead of the lower, thus flattening the attack angle some. With my K Mod conversion kit, I've been told to run the uppper hole on the rear bracket and either hole on the front. The upper hole gives me more ski pressure, and the lower hole gives me a more lively feel. If the '13 is anything like my old '12, I want to be able to keep the nose down and in control when climbing- i.e. more ski pressure.

If you go to the lower hole in the front, and then move it back, I wouldn't be surprised if the attack angle is still steeper than simply running the upper hole. Using a new hole lower and behind the front 2 is going to increase the distance from the drivers to the rail tip and increase the chances of stabbing the track even though chances are probably still pretty slim.

Where are the '14 mounting holes compared to the '13?

Maybe i'm looking at this all wrong, but i'm thinking a better attack angle is what the sled needs for my style of riding. Alot of riders may like the more lively feel, but I didn't like the feeling of coming over backwards when I'm trying to climb in tight spots. I'm going to try the upper hole and then go from there.

Thoughts?
 

boondocker97

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Right. Dropping the front skid mount down from 12 to 13 helped make the sled feel more nimble, which is what a majority of people seemed to be looking for. It does make the attack angle a little steeper. Cat kept the lower mounting location but moved the skid backwards from the 13's to the 14's to help get a lower attack angle again. I think they realized last year that when they dropped the front of the skid down it increased the probability of a track stab so they issueded an update to have larger rail tips installed on the 13's. I assume the larger rail tips stayed for the 14 model year.
 
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