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Polaris: Pro-Ride 2010 and up, all models in the Pro-Ride chassis
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  #1  
Old 02-13-2013, 09:55 PM
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Default ANOTHER FUEL FILTER THREAD: WITH NAPA PART NUMBERS.

Quality and type of hose and the clamps that you use with it are CRUCIAL to a safe installation. Hoses and clamps must be matched.

Worm-screw hose clamps should NOT be used for any reason.

DO NOT cut/reuse any of the hose from your original Polaris fuel filter assembly.

If you do not have experience with hoses and fuel systems and safety procedures in hose routing and mounting... DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS INSTALLATION

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Big thanks to EricW and Davey for the the leads on this.

NOTE: This filter will NOT fit into the stock location and will need to be relocated. It is considerably larger than stock.

If your sled is under warranty still... use of this filter assembly could void your warranty.

Heres the quick and easy way to get a great filter in there and not have to deal with waiting.

The 3300 filter has about 4 times the filter area of the stock and costs about $12 at your NAPA store. (CARQUEST as well has Wix filters... #33300 )

You can also substitute the HOLLEY filter later if you wish and still use the same quick connects.

NAPA auto parts will have all you need

Parts list:

  • 18" NAPA/Gates 3/8" Barricade fuel injection hose (see below for part numbers)
  • 18" NAPA/Gates 5/16" Barricade fuel injection hose (see below for part numbers)
  • 2ea Hose clamps made just for the 3/8" fuel injection hose... NAPA has them #705-1227 (14-16mm)
  • 2ea Hose clamps made just for the 5/16" fuel injection hose... NAPA has them (13-15mm) #7-5-1226
  • 1ea Fuel filter #3300 (WIX 33300)
  • 1ea 3/8" fuel injection Quick dissconnect (NAPA #730-4927 )
  • 1ea 5/16" fuel injecton hose Quick Dissconnect (NAPA #730-4926 )


NAPA part numbers for the hose depend on the size of the roll they are cutting from and have in stock.
They cut to length for you except for the 2ft packs.
5/16" --- 250 ft roll #H354, 25 ft roll #H349, 2ft package #H344
3/8" --- 250 ft roll #H355, 25 ft roll #H350, 2ft package #H358

NOTE: The hose clamps are NOT normal worm drive clamps... NOT what you want... you want clamps made specifically for fuel injection hose and fitted correctly.

REMOVE the old filter according to instructions in the Polaris service manual.


Take an old fuel filter assembly and CAREFULLY file/grind off the crimp-collar on the fuel injection rail end (the end with the O-Rings)... Do the same for the quick disconnect on the other end.

Install the hose on the fuel rail fitting with the clamp... Blow out the hose with a little brake cleaner to make sure there is no crap in the line.... put a little 2 stroke oil on the o-rings and install that onto the rail...snake the hose up and out of area so you can get access to it and the filter ... oil tank etc that was removed to get to the fitting on the fuel rail

Cool thing about this is that you will not have to pull this crap again to change the filter.

Now... with that done...take one of the 5/16 quick disconnects and install it on the hose with clamp.. blow it out well and put it on the fuel tank fitting.

NOTE: Use the original 5/16" QD from the Polaris assembly and install it on the tank side of the line... the Napa QD's have built in release tabs that make changes easy.. and you will not have to remove the line from the tank fitting.

You can see in the photo that the fuel filter is really close to the QD... difficult to get a release tool in there... which is reason for the one with the release tabs to be on the filter side.

Take the other two quick disconnects and push them onto the filter (no hose yet)
TECH TIP: using a smear of two stroke oil helps to lube the o rings in the QD's and makes them easier to remove/install

Figure out the best place to put the filter on the lines... cut the lines where they need to be... put on your clamps... push them onto the QD's and tighten the clamps... secure the filter and there you have it.

Photo from EricW

Notice how close the fitting is to the filter... VERY difficult to get the removal tools between that and the filter... the other one has the release built-in and can be activated easily





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  #2  
Old 02-13-2013, 10:23 PM
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From the 2012 Polaris Factory Service Manual.
Quote:
WARNING
Quote:
When removing the fuel filter fuel spillage will occur. Be
sure to work in a well ventilated area away from
anything which may cause the fuel to ignite such as an
open flame, heaters, trouble lights or cigarettes.
1. The fuel filter should be replaced as outlined in the
periodic maintenance table.
2. Open the left and right door panels. Remove the hood
and drive belt.
3. Disengage the rubber strap securing the oil tank to the
clutch cover. Remove the oil tank mount screw.
4. Remove the two harness connectors from the ECU.
Remove the oil tank fill cap, and then the ECU bracket.
5. Remove the four nuts that mount the clutch cover to
the chassis. Slide the oil tank down to open access to
the two rear nuts.
6. Carefully release the clutch cover from the studs and
then pull it away from the airbox.
7. Depressurize the fuel system. Remove the filter from
the airbox bracket. Disconnect the fuel supply hose
from the fuel pump flange using a disconnect tool.
8. Remove the bottom fuel fitting clamp on the fuel rail.
9. Carefully remove the fuel hose fitting from the fuel rail.
Have a clean shop rag at hand to absorb any fuel that
leaks from the fitting. Dispose of rag properly when
finished.
10. Drain any fuel in the hoses/filter into an appropriate
container, and then discard filter in accordance with
local rules and regulations.
11. Apply a light film of two stroke engine oil to the new
fuel supply hose fitting. Carefully install the fitting back
into the fuel rail. Torque screw to specification.
Fuel Hose Fittings-to-Fuel Rail Clamp Screws: 3.3 ft-lb (4.5 Nm)
12. Reconnect the supply hose to the fuel pump flange.
Verify an audible “click” is heard and the connections
are secure by firmly pulling on the two hose
connections. Push the filter cartridge back into the
bracket.
13. Inspect the hoses making sure none are worn or
damaged.
14. Reinstall the clutch cover. Torque cover nuts to
specification.
15. Reconnect the ECU wiring harness connectors.
16. Install the ECU bracket onto the oil tank. Reinstall the
oil tank. Torque mount screw to specification.
17. Reinstall the drive belt. Replace the hood and door
panels.




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  #3  
Old 02-13-2013, 10:23 PM
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:59 PM
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MH, or anyone in the know; any knowledge if the Gates heat shrink style clamps are compatible with the Gates Barrier Fuel Injection hose? It would be ultra clean and light setup if they were.
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Old 02-14-2013, 12:08 AM
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LH...
It WOULD be super clean like you said.

I've thought about that too... Have them sitting here... just not sure that I'd use them on fuel lines at 58psi... I wouln't want to recommend it to someone else for something as critical as gasoline.






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Old 02-14-2013, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mountainhorse View Post
LH...
It WOULD be super clean like you said.

I've thought about that too... Have them sitting here... just not sure that I'd use them on fuel lines at 58psi... I wouln't want to recommend it to someone else for something as critical as gasoline.
I hear you on that note; I find myself hesitating to post a lot of things that I feel comfortable doing to my own sleds, with my known skill set and my attention to the details, to the masses of unknown skill sets and unknown attention to the details. One must acknowledge a level of responsibility with ones postings, as the rest of the planet has access to said information.

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Old 02-14-2013, 10:24 AM
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Another option would be Oetiker clamps. I have not had one fail to date on a FI system.
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Old 02-14-2013, 11:26 AM
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TRS...Good lead.

Those are great clamps to use... as long as you use the right type of Oetiker clamp.
Also critical to chose the correct sized clamp that fits EXACTLY.

My local NAPA stores does not carry the correct type of Oetiker clamps in stock... they could get them but had to order them in packs of 25. Other Auto parts stores or industrial/Farm supply stores may have the correct ones.

OK to use this type, "GAP Free" design, The tongue and groove design creates a smooth, 360° seal to protect hose and tube.


NOT OK to use the standard Oetiker "pinch type" clamps like this





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Old 02-14-2013, 01:03 PM
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Another option is Western Power Sports, they have a large assortment and kits.
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:51 PM
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