C3 post forward block.

1rarel78 · Dec 20, 2013

Anyone out there installed 1 of these? Any picks,the picks on there website sucks. Am having serious issues adjusting to the Pro Climb. Hope forward mount will help.Does it work withe the adjustable post? Thanks.

Fack · Dec 20, 2013

It will not work with the adjustable post. I had to take the adjustable post off and put a standard post on and add the C3 block. This is the best thing you can do to your sled in my opinion. Gets the bars out of your lap and up in front of you. I'm not a fan of the flat steering either. I like to push into a turn instead of pull. The sled used to wear me out. I can use a taller riser for more leverage, and in a side-hill the off bar end naturally swings lower toward you in a counter steer putting you in a lower position where you want to be. I highly recommend doing this. It's a little bit of work and money on the front end, but well worth it in the long run.

-Fack

backcountryislife · Dec 20, 2013

Feeling what a FORWARD laydown sled feels like I agree. Always hated "horizontal" steering, but get it far enough forward and it's a different set of mechanics. The adj. post on the cat feels like it's way too far back to me, and a minimal position change with good geometry would change it a lot imo.

1rarel78 · Dec 20, 2013

I know it's been talked about in other threads,but can the 2" Rox riser be used to move the handlebars forward work well Seems like the cheapest and quickest way. By the way BCIL, my oil pump delete is on the way! Do you do that on the doo's?

backcountryislife · Dec 20, 2013

1rarel78 said:
I know it's been talked about in other threads,but can the 2" Rox riser be used to move the handlebars forward work well Seems like the cheapest and quickest way. By the way BCIL, my oil pump delete is on the way! Do you do that on the doo's?

Stinking ETEC you can't delete... But it's a much more intelligent oiling system, so it's not so bad to leave it imo, I just wish the container was smaller, or that the stupid oil light didn't go on when you're at what I'd call 1/2 tank!! I really like this motor, but IMO it's just not as mod friendly as the cat by a long stretch.

As to riser, if you move the bars off center of post, you get windshield washer steering like an older doo... poor geometry. You can make it work that way, but IMO that's just as bad as the Doo's used to be.

Snopro_69 · Dec 20, 2013

You can do the rox risers an point em straight forward. All your doing is laying the bar infront of vert post essentially. Dosent change the swing then. That's what I went too. Helped a bunch but still not enough for me. Prob gunna try the c3 an other post with a only 2" riser so minimal "doo" swing. Plus good forward an down how it should be.

Fack · Dec 20, 2013

The post forward block simply moves the entire post further forward. If you want minimal swing I would go with the 3" and keep your riser in line with your post. It's still not quite vertical steering but there is no "swing." I will post pictures of my sled and basically how it all works when I get a chance.

-Fack

bradburck · Dec 20, 2013

I went HCR post with 2" riser. It's literally about as low as you can go without mounting directly to the riser. I like it in the garage, haven't had it on the snow yet. Had the 4.5" riser on there to start and even at 6'2" is was still too tall for my liking. I'll report back, hope I don[t have to go to the standard post with the post forward kit, but being forward on the sled for sure helps. Need to get used to this new chassis

1rarel78 · Dec 20, 2013

For 80 bucks I think I'll at least try the Rox.

chippymod · Dec 20, 2013

The Tapio's have done this on there hillclimb modsleds since the proclimb chassis was introduced, standard post with a 2" spacer moving it slightly more vertical works very well for them.

kylant · Dec 21, 2013

bradburck said:
I went HCR post with 2" riser. It's literally about as low as you can go without mounting directly to the riser. I like it in the garage, haven't had it on the snow yet. Had the 4.5" riser on there to start and even at 6'2" is was still too tall for my liking. I'll report back, hope I don[t have to go to the standard post with the post forward kit, but being forward on the sled for sure helps. Need to get used to this new chassis

how does the HCR post with 2” riser height compare to just using the zbros bracket and cutting down the adjustable post?
which way will give the lowest post starting point?

bradburck · Dec 21, 2013

Didn't measure adjustable post, so can't give an exact number on that.. here are measurements of the HCR post with 2 in riser. I would estimate it is 2-3 inches lower then the lowest point of the stock adjustable riser. It is where it belongs for me.. It naturally brings you further forward on the sled because it is lower. 3rd pic is the measurement from the top of the running board to the middle of the handlebars.

kylant · Dec 21, 2013

bradburck said:
Didn't measure adjustable post, so can't give an exact number on that.. here are measurements of the HCR post with 2 in riser. I would estimate it is 2-3 inches lower then the lowest point of the stock adjustable riser. It is where it belongs for me.. It naturally brings you further forward on the sled because it is lower. 3rd pic is the measurement from the top of the running board to the middle of the handlebars.

so it looks like about 6.5” from the base to the middle of the bar?

bradburck · Dec 21, 2013

It is 7" from the top of the over structure to the middle of the bars.

gjp · Dec 22, 2013

1rarel78 said:
I know it's been talked about in other threads,but can the 2" Rox riser be used to move the handlebars forward work well Seems like the cheapest and quickest way. By the way BCIL, my oil pump delete is on the way! Do you do that on the doo's?

It is worth it. The steering DOES NOT feel awkward or have the windshield washer feel. I think if you go more than 2" you may notice a difference.

I no longer feel cramped on the Proclimb, but the wider and better angled Protapers had a part to play in this too. Love the new setup.

kylant · Dec 22, 2013

gjp said:
It is worth it. The steering DOES NOT feel awkward or have the windshield washer feel. I think if you go more than 2" you may notice a difference.

I no longer feel cramped on the Proclimb, but the wider and better angled Protapers had a part to play in this too. Love the new setup.

what pro taper bars are those? and is there enough room to mount the left side switches?

thanks

snow-seeker · Dec 22, 2013

kylant said:
what pro taper bars are those? and is there enough room to mount the left side switches?

thanks

Rsi makes a relocation kit to move the controls down to the dash. That's how I would go.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

gjp · Dec 22, 2013

kylant said:
what pro taper bars are those? and is there enough room to mount the left side switches?

thanks

Protaper Contour Universal Low (02-7949)

Grip size
It leaves only 4-1/4" for grips with the light switches module. It would work but cramped. (there is almost 5-1/2" on throttle side).

I am relocating switches down by the pull cord with RSI toggle switches.

CO 2.0 · Dec 23, 2013

bradburck said:
Didn't measure adjustable post, so can't give an exact number on that.. here are measurements of the HCR post with 2 in riser. I would estimate it is 2-3 inches lower then the lowest point of the stock adjustable riser. It is where it belongs for me.. It naturally brings you further forward on the sled because it is lower. 3rd pic is the measurement from the top of the running board to the middle of the handlebars.

Stock telescopic bars in lowest position is 8.5" from middle of bar to top of overstructure. So looks as if the HCR post with 2" riser is ~1.5" lower than the stock telescopic bar in lowest position.

bradburck · Dec 23, 2013

so it looks like the only way to get lower would be the ROX pivot as I don't think you can get lower then a 2" on the t-post style post. Might be the next move then. Riding tomorrow, will report back on how the 2" feels, as I have only ridden with the 4.5" riser.

C3 post forward block.

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