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Hood and head light?

jgd

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
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Becker, MN
The problem with the Thrasher hood is that it has no "structure" and is very flimsy. We actually added some bracing to it to keep it off the pipe, to keep it in the belly pan channel, add hood tie downs, etc. Personally, I'd opt for a hood with more structure. The Thrasher was a PIA to work with, in my experience. Good luck.
 

jgd

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
475
64
28
Becker, MN
BR Tech makes other hoods that may have some rigidity. I'd call them for some options. You probably want a hood that is +2", but measure to be sure. Outlaw Composites made a nice +2" hood, however I'm not sure if they are still around. You may find something at the swap meets this summer...
 
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X2Freeride

Well-known member
Jan 25, 2009
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SNO STUFF used to make a lightweight clear wedge hood, but it would appear that it has been discontinued. Not too many people rocking wedge mod's now days to justify it I suppose.

Honestly id go with the BR tech hood. Just dont get the thrasher. I've seen them take a beating on some IQR's and hold up pretty nice. Some people say they dont stand behind their products... But i dont know, from what I have seen they always do right by people. Plus they look GREAT, and are designed with exactly what you need in mind.

Thats the one thing about the Ultra pipes... some sets fit with the hood not having to be cut others simply will not. I dont know why this is for sure. If its the pipes or its the chassis differences. I always wanted to find someone whose didnt fit and swap them over to see if the manifolds were different or if it was the can or what the deal was.

I wish I had more of these sleds at my disposal, id like to cut a set of manifolds once and see if I could make them fit the chassis better. There has to be an answer to this without cutting the hood. To me it simply unacceptable that you have to do this... It cannot be that hard for them to build these pipes the correct way with the stock hood in place and functioning properly.

How close to the shock tower are your pipes? can you move them down any? I know I did a good deal of playing with mine before i got them to fit exactly right and everything to clear. Can had to move down kinda far in the outlet hole.


As for the light question. The beam is too tight to work as just as headlight with the projector. The Ultra would power it just fine and you would need the resistor, but its not enough to ride at night with on its own. What light setup do you have now? Any pictures? I may have an idea for you that both saves weight and looks good.

You guys and your wedge mods, I almost feel like I need to build one again once I get this Gen 2 done just so I brain storm some modifications on these and we can make some progress on this stuff. Its much easier to do all this when I have one sitting in front of me.
 
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X2Freeride

Well-known member
Jan 25, 2009
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There are high RPM and low RPM pipes that were made by SLP. The low RPM (8100) or High RPM (87-8800) pipes. The difference is the length of the center section between the cones. The low RPM pipes the center section is around 9 inches, the outlet stinger diameter is also 1 inch one the low rpm pipes. Each make good power... If you have the low RPM pipes you had to retard the timing on the Ultra engine to avoid deto, which might have been why yours had problems if you have the low RPM Pipes.

Also you have huge spaces between your pipes. Mine never had that. mine were tight together. With maybe a 1/8 th inch or so of space between them. is it possible that you have your manifolds mixed up?

Based on how the manifolds look id say that you could easily be cut at an angle to gain more clearance. I just dont know that you could gain enough to get the clearance that you need.

Have you ever thought of mounting your lights in your nose cone? You could build an aluminum shelf to mount them on. Then build an newer front bumper out of steel like the old northern lites one that had large spaces in front section that would work perfectly and hide your lights from view. Yet still be bright and the lower mounting would broaden the sweep the lights have.

I would love to build another wedge. Id like to find a 98 XC 700 or a 98 700 RMK. I loved those sleds, as I had one of each. The mother of all sleds would be a 98 XCR 440. Thats one of the sickest sleds of all time. They are probably the best of all the wedges. Anyone know of one out there?
 
H
Dec 15, 2010
16
3
3
when i rebult the steering on my 98 polaris xc 700 i didnt have room fore the light and such so i put a wide spread xeon light in the middle of my handle bars and i works so well 10 times better the stock light !

something you sshould try ?


2edtk77.jpg


332mi3a.jpg


sry for bad english im from sweden :)

btw i have rmk 700 98, xc700 98, and a xcr440 98 :) love my indys :D
 
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X2Freeride

Well-known member
Jan 25, 2009
1,546
582
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when i rebult the steering on my 98 polaris xc 700 i didnt have room fore the light and such so i put a wide spread xeon light in the middle of my handle bars and i works so well 10 times better the stock light !

something you sshould try ?


2edtk77.jpg


332mi3a.jpg


sry for bad english im from sweden :)

btw i have rmk 700 98, xc700 98, and a xcr440 98 :) love my indys :D


Do you have any pictures of that sled without the hood?
 
H
Dec 15, 2010
16
3
3
the hood isnt connected to any speed guages or light or anything it just comes right of.



svj2b5.jpg


213m6vp.jpg


2hfi2hc.jpg


:face-icon-small-coo

it isnt exactly in mint condish, it has a lot of runs round the track !
 
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X2Freeride

Well-known member
Jan 25, 2009
1,546
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Thats a pretty inventive steering setup, and a super modified wedge. I dont think I have ever seen a wedge that rider forward. Looks a lot like the 04 Polaris Pro xr. How does the sled work?
 
H
Dec 15, 2010
16
3
3
i have to be honest.....

its ****ing brutal stering is spot on the power plant delivers everywhere.

and it looks like it would ****ing kill you ! i love it!
 
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