POLZINHUNTER's Rider Select Delete for the 2005 RMK Kicks Azz

mountainhorse · Jun 2, 2009

I just installed Polzinhunter's 2005 RMK Rider-Select delete in a project sled I'm working on...

TOP NOTCH QUALITY...
All stainless steel fastners, very accurately and cleanly cut aluminim, high quality bushings, and fit perfectly...

On the 2005's... I riveted a stainless t-nut on the backside of the steering hoop to be able to remove install without pulling the tank... You have to pull the tank to remove the stock Rider Select on the 2005's not the 2006's...

I would recommend this to anyone who is looking for a tighter steering post that will take a beating on rollovers and roll to un-stuck situations...

His kit has 3 different positions to lock into ... EDIT: 4-5-6 position relative to the Rider Select mechanism.

It's good to see made in the ole USA quality like this!!

Link to other info on these kits for 2005 AND 2006 RMK/Fusion/Switchbacks

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114681

Ex-Member · Jun 2, 2009

+1 for excellent product. 1000+ flawless miles on it this year.

Dogmeat · Jun 2, 2009

Can't comment on the 2005 version but the 2006 version sure is nice

LPIdaho · Jun 2, 2009

I wish they'd have adjustability to go farther forward

POLZIN · Jun 2, 2009

Wow! thanks fellas !I am truley honored by your kind words and thanks to all of you that have purchased a kit from me !

Dogmeat · Jun 2, 2009

LPIdaho said:
I wish they'd have adjustability to go farther forward

Damn I've got mine set up all the way back and wish it had another notch or two back farther

hahah ... but then again, once I put my 8" riser on I might think differently

mountainhorse · Jun 2, 2009

LPIdaho said:
I wish they'd have adjustability to go farther forward

Where are you riding Bobby? What setting do you leave your bars at?

Supplicate · Jun 2, 2009

Mule said:
+1 for excellent product. 1000+ flawless miles on it this year.

Other then a few loose bolts, right?

LPIdaho · Jun 3, 2009

mountainhorse said:
Where are you riding Bobby? What setting do you leave your bars at?

you know I didn't really think about it, but the bars can't move forward past #7 and that's the only position I ride in, so one of these wouldn't really help unless my bars start sliding back unexpectedly

HUNDO · Jun 3, 2009

Yep, best fitting aftermarket piece I've ever bought:beer;

Kootenay-Stomper · Jun 3, 2009

easy install??

POLZIN · Jun 3, 2009

Kootenay-Stomper said:
easy install??

I see in your signature you have an 05! its not that bad but you do have to remove the tank to get the stock POS off after that its a cake walk. The 06s are a much easier install .

POLZIN · Jun 3, 2009

LPIdaho said:
you know I didn't really think about it, but the bars can't move forward past #7 and that's the only position I ride in, so one of these wouldn't really help unless my bars start sliding back unexpectedly

I assume your stock components aren't as loose as most Iv'e seen?The biggest benefit is the improved rigidity . I think the streeing post would snap before my kit failed . The stock plactic components are the point of failure in a hard rollover with that set up.

Dogmeat · Jun 3, 2009

POLZINHUNTER said:
I assume your stock components aren't as loose as most Iv'e seen?The biggest benefit is the improved rigidity . I think the streeing post would snap before my kit failed . The stock plactic components are the point of failure in a hard rollover with that set up.

Yah, that's kinda what I'm worried about going to a +8" riser ....

You should fab up some heavy duty steering posts too

POLZIN · Jun 3, 2009

Dogmeat said:
Yah, that's kinda what I'm worried about going to a +8" riser ....

You should fab up some heavy duty steering posts too

Funny you should mention that! I have tons of slop in my steering and was planning on fixing it with a custom streeing post and linkages.I am planning on pullling the motor in the next couple of weeks so I can get to the darn thing.

Is there anything else you would like me to build ?

mountainhorse · Jun 4, 2009

If you are going to build yourself a custom steering post Kreg...

IMO...

Make the lower leg from thinner wall Cromo.. use a tighter tollerance U-joint from Flaming river...the upper part of the shaft with .090 wall cromo and the top of the post a t post style with a ski doo width knurled pivot tube... more choices in risers with the wider doo width.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLA%2DFR1738&N=700+4294744935+4294808576+4294794805+115&autoview=sku

Also.. if you are doing it... make the T-top of the post closer to the console... with your setup ... should be bullet proof...

You will find slop in the lower steering linkages... go with a tubular tie rod from " Wimpy" on the forum here... any length you need... then go with off the shelf rod ends... Check for slop in the steeing bell cranks and tie rod ends inside the front of the bulkhead...

Good luck.

POLZIN · Jun 4, 2009

mountainhorse said:
If you are going to build yourself a custom steering post Kreg...

IMO...

Make the lower leg from thinner wall Cromo.. use a tighter tollerance U-joint from Flaming river...the upper part of the shaft with .090 wall cromo and the top of the post a t post style with a ski doo width knurled pivot tube... more choices in risers with the wider doo width.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLA%2DFR1738&N=700+4294744935+4294808576+4294794805+115&autoview=sku

Also.. if you are doing it... make the T-top of the post closer to the console... with your setup ... should be bullet proof...

You will find slop in the lower steering linkages... go with a tubular tie rod from " Wimpy" on the forum here... any length you need... then go with off the shelf rod ends... Check for slop in the steeing bell cranks and tie rod ends inside the front of the bulkhead...

Good luck.

Thanks for the imput MH ! I was thinking pretty much along the same lines except for the u-joint I was thinking about a one piece spiral flex coupling as they are better a eliminating binding points and may be less than 75.00a

I was also thinking I would offer them in both t-post and standard flange styles and of course use my bushings and clamps. do you think there is any room for improvement in geometry on the linkages and crank arms? I never paid much attention when I had the opportunity to look

Super Dave3 · Jun 4, 2009

Why not do away with the u-joint, similar to what Timbersled was doing?

mountainhorse · Jun 4, 2009

Super Dave3 said:
Why not do away with the u-joint, similar to what Timbersled was doing?

I think there are both years of the 900 being "thrown around" in this thread...

Dave... easy on the 05's ... more challenging on the 06's to clear the 4 injector setup and different lower bracket... Which is why Allen didn't offer his straight steering post for the 2006's..

I'm sure it is "Do-able" just some more head scratching on the 2006 which is what Kreg drives (I believe)

For all reading this... Dave drives the baddest-azz 900 turbo on the snow... that sukka rips... super clean build...His has the straight post and no U-joint and it works super well.

T-sled might be able to make some more of the straight posts for the 2005 900's on request if anyone is interested

mountainhorse · Jun 4, 2009

What is a "spiral flex" coupling???

The Flaming river joint is a pricey version... I think you can get the un plated version from Borgeson in that size...

If you wanted to make the belcranks in the bulkhead out of aluminum .... I'd be all over that like stink on a Hippie!!

POLZINHUNTER's Rider Select Delete for the 2005 RMK Kicks Azz

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