Best mods for new 2015 Pro Climb 153" SnoPro Limited

usmc_powerhouse · Aug 20, 2015

Personally I have never had any issues with the 084 belts slipping on my 15, 13, or 12. Honestly though I think Arctic Cat belts are overpriced junk, I run Dayco XTX Xtreme Torque belts on all my sleds and keep the Arctic Cat belt as a spare. The Dayco XTX cost $120 and has a ONE YEAR WARRANTY. Break it anytime within a year, no mileage limit and they will replace it for free, just send them the pieces and a $10 check for them to send you a new one, can't beat that. Just my opinion though, to each their own...

Frostbite · Aug 20, 2015

Thanks for the info usmc_powerhouse, some sleds tend to like the factory belts and some work just fine or even better with aftermarket belts. I know the general consensus on the older M series sleds was the Cat belts seemed to work best overall. Since this is roughly the same engine, I thought maybe that would hold true once again. However, I have no idea either way on the Proclimb, I am just going by what I am being told.

So, what works best....Cat belts or aftermarket?

arctic2009 · Aug 20, 2015

Frostbite said:
Arctic2009, I could do that but, there a couple issues with doing that.

1. If indeed the 084 belt gets a glaze on it and slips (like other have mentioned) that will generate heat and that's the last thing you want to happen to your clutching components.

2. Trying to clutch for a slipping belt is a pain, if not maddening and if I plan to swap over to 083 belts eventually, why would I take the time to clutch my sled to the 084 belts. The 083 belt is stickier and one thing I have learned with clutching is the more things you can keep as a constant, the less head scratching you will have to deal with. I have chased my tail plenty of times until I sat down and simplified what I had going on.

The bottom line is, it just saves me from having to clutch the sled twice.

To each their own, how about I pay you shipping and take that junk 084 of your hands then?? :face-icon-small-hap

Frostbite · Aug 20, 2015

Thanks Arctic2009, that's a mighty kind offer but, I think I'll have to pass for now. :face-icon-small-ton

I am still trying to get my head wrapped around all this Proclimb stuff. I have heard the 083 belt thing from three people now (unsolicited) of course, I assumed (you know what happens when you do that) it must be the general consensus for these sleds?

usmc_powerhouse · Aug 20, 2015

No problem Frostbite. Yep, on all my older sleds (pre 2012) OEM belts are the way to go, aftermarket seems to be junk on them, had one blow within 10 miles going under 20mph... On the Proclimb/Procross for me it has seemed to be the opposite, was replacing 084s every 300-400 miles. 083 vs 084, 083 is definately the way to go, I've gotten 1000 miles out of a couple. Strange since the 084 was developed by Arctic Cat to be a better/longer lasting belt over the 083... But the warranty and free replacement from Dayco got my attention.

Oh, and Country Cat has 083 belts on sale for $89 right now (vs $180 for 084s).. might have to pick up a couple spares myself.. Enjoy your new sled! You'll love it!

Frostbite · Aug 20, 2015

That's great info usmc_powerhouse!

It sounds like you know your belts. I haven't used an aftermarket belt since one of the old Dayco Max belts left me stranded.

However, you have my attention with the Dayco XTX Xtreme Torque belts. I will look into them.

Actually, I did look into them and the cheapest on Ebay with free shipping is $95.69.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dayco-XTX-D...-st-/381125489817?hash=item58bcd97499&vxp=mtr

http://www.daycoproducts.com/dayco®-xtx™-snowmobile-belt

I will have to look more into that warranty you mentioned. I don't see anything even mentioned on the Dayco site.

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How about a question regarding bar height and or risers etc. I have one comment from Thatoldfart that says:

"some folks prefer a rox pivoting riser pointed forward (level with post), or a post forward kit (personal choice)"

I know what I used (and works well) on my 09 M8 with the telescoping bars but is there any consensus on what works best on the Proclimb?

usmc_powerhouse · Aug 20, 2015

haha.. Yeah, Arctic Cat snowmobiles have been my obsession/addiction for a loooonng time.. (20 of my 25 yrs.. haha) I'm young, no kids, so I have time to ride every day I can find snow, and am never satisfied so I'm always buying and selling sleds just to tear them apart and see what I can do to improve on them to suit my style. I've put thousands and thousands of miles and hours into snowmobiling and I love every minute of it.

But keeping on the topic...... Bar risers.. I personally don't use one, most people I know who have one do use the Rox pivoting risor pointed straight forward. It puts the bars two inches forward. I've ridden it, it works well for side hilling so the bars aren't as jammed into your stomach, but if you ever turn or are riding on flat ground it can feel awkward, kind of like you are pushing and pulling the bars side to side instead of pivoting. The idea behind it is it is a cheap fix that works. The solution that works best, but is more expense, (~$180) is to swap out the steering post with the non-Sno Pro laydown steering post and use a post-forward kit from C3 (or make your own with an aluminum spacer). Doing this makes it steer half flat/half vertically like a Ski-doo. It also saves you a couple pounds over the telescopic steering and is easy to install. But again, personal preference. If I were you I'd ride it a while the way it is and see if you want to change anything.

I buy my Dayco belts from Bikeman Performance's website, it has the warranty info in the belt description. On the belt package is a card you fill out and send it in with a copy of the proof of purchase receipt.
http://bikemanperformance.com/snowm...ayco-xtx-extreme-torque-snowmobile-belts.html

Frostbite · Aug 20, 2015

More great stuff usmc_powerhouse!

Regarding the XTX belt, how is it clutching for the belt? Does the RPM stay consistent while climbing?

I am wondering, since I have an AMP 2" bar riser that also moves the bars 1 1/2" forward on my 2009 with the telescoping bar and like it, wouldn't I feel right at home on a Proclimb by using the riser?

The other question is, if that is true; why does the AMP add say it fits 2009 and 2010 only? Did the telescoping steering post change or did it remain the same 2009 - 2015?

I bet they just never updated their add.........

Also, I know exactly where my feet need to be placed on a M series sled (aft a bit on the rails). I thought I read that on the proclimb one needs to ride as far forward as possible? Is there some truth to that?

http://www.aftermarketproducts.com/catalog.php?mach_type=S

Our newest riser fits the 2009-2010 Arctic Cat telescoping steering post. The telescoping post works great, but as it is raised, pushes the rider backward.

We have solved this problem with a unique offset bar mount, to bring the rider forward for more control and comfort. The riser has 2” additional height and 1-1/2” forward distance built into an attractive lightweight design.

It’s easy to install and all hardware is included.

Fits: Arctic 2009-2010 M-Series and Cross Fire with telescoping post.

summ8rmk · Aug 20, 2015

Foot placement is based on individual's style. I still ride with my feet back most of the time, its more fun for how i ride. It is different on a side hill, the back washes out really easy compared to the old Mseries.

Los frijoles estan muy caliente dijo la mama osa!

usmc_powerhouse · Aug 20, 2015

I have found no difference or inconsistent RPMs going back and forth between the XTX and 084/083 at high or low elevation, it pulls hard through the entire RPM range. This is the sled I've run it on the most, stock '15 M8000 except for BMP powderlite muffler and C&A bx skis. The only clutch change I made is changed out the yellow/white primary spring for a dark green off a '13 XF. With the yellow/white it just felt like it engaged way too hard (regardless of belt), the dark green spring lets it engage at a lower RPM and it feels much smoother. Otherwise stock secondary, stock primary weights. If I'm going to run below 5k elevation I change the primary weights to 75g and the helix to 42/48.

As far as your bar riser, yes, that will fit and work just fine. If you are already used to it throw it on, you can always take it off if you don't like it. The post from the 09s and 10s is the same telescopic post, only the bars changed to a straight bar with the same 7/8 diameter. Arctic Cat sells the same one and has it listed to fit 09-15. Strange that AMP hasn't updated the listing..

http://countrycat.com/ccstore/index...ering-post-offset-handlebar-riser-silver.html

Foot position, just like Summ8rmk said that is based on the individual. You will have to find what works best for what situation and snow condition you are in. The Proclimb chassis responds very well to a slight weight shift or foot position change.

Hope this helps!

Frostbite · Aug 20, 2015

Good stuff once again. Now you have me thinking about clutching.

Don't the older 800s prior to 2010 use a different primary spring than the H.O, 800s from 2010 on? I have a bunch of springs for the older 800s. Will these springs work in the Proclimb?

I will need to dig out my clutching chart ( is it a different spring chart) and figure out what the rate for the stock yellow/white spring is and what it is for the dark green. I'm with you though, I like a smooth engagement with a high total force so I can really load the motor.

Funny, the bar riser you linked is the same bar riser I have printed to buy tomorrow. The same one in black is more than double the price.

CO 2.0 · Aug 20, 2015

Best primary spring I've run in a 2012-2015 proclimb is the speedwerx h5 120/310. Speedwerx h5 springs don't sack out over time like Cat and SLP springs

officer farva · Aug 21, 2015

CO 2.0 said:
Best primary spring I've run in a 2012-2015 proclimb is the speedwerx h5 120/310. Speedwerx h5 springs don't sack out over time like Cat and SLP springs

X2...ive always ran speedwerx springs and always will. Everything from my sno pro 440 when i raced to my current sled. They make great springs. And per WyoBoy1000 and co 2.0's input i went with the same h5 120/310 spring

Frostbite · Aug 21, 2015

I'm with you guys, they are the only springs I use as well. After years and years of clutching my 09 M8. I finally nailed the clutching to perfection using an H5 spring (I would have to look at my tuning book t see what color I settled upon). MDS weights and the stock secondary, with the stock helix and spring.

That was after years of testing dozens of multiangle helixes, adjustable clutch weights, tons of springs and chasing my tail all over the place. You can bet my 2015 won't stray too far from the clutching recipe I discovered on the 2009 Stage III.

However........on my Yamaha's I always loved the "Shock Wave" adjustable helix. It was the best thing since sliced bread! A spin of the ring and I could gain back that 200 RPM I lost in the afternoon when I had gained elevation when it warmed up and the snow got sticky. I was bummed out when they didn't make one for Cats with a Diamond Drive. I was thinking I might try one on this sled if you guys think it might be something nice to have. Here's a link:

http://www.shockwaveperformance.com/latest_news.htm

http://www.shockwaveperformance.com/ar16_clutch.htm

WyoBoy1000 · Aug 22, 2015

KMOD runs a shockwave, I thought about it but my clutching on the 14 pulls so consistent and hard I decided it wasn't worth it because I would have to modify it to fit the machined secondary.

WyoBoy1000 · Aug 22, 2015

summ8rmk said:
Foot placement is based on individual's style. I still ride with my feet back most of the time, its more fun for how i ride. It is different on a side hill, the back washes out really easy compared to the old Mseries.

Los frijoles estan muy caliente dijo la mama osa!

That's because its to dam wide, mine don't though.

watch in 1080p full screen on a computer, gives a better idea of whats going on

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZjSw3D9C3nw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWglGtciaWU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PmiNZtpZJo

Chewy22 · Aug 22, 2015

WyoBoy1000 said:
KMOD runs a shockwave, I thought about it but my clutching on the 14 pulls so consistent and hard I decided it wasn't worth it because I would have to modify it to fit the machined secondary.

If I was setting up clutching on a 15 or older PC I would copy Wyo's setup exactly. The setup is proven.

Frostbite · Aug 22, 2015

I haven't been at the Proclimb game nearly as long as most of you but, this sure looks like the best bang for the buck for weight saving off the front of the sled that I have seen at this point. So, what are the positives and negatives to using a hood like this?

http://www.theracinstation.com/Moun...l.htm?productId=-464098&catalogId=-1970&fpg=1

Of course, I would have to buy a white version of the hood and add one of these $49 wraps to spend a whopping $330 on saving 15 lbs. of weight off the front end.

http://countrycat.com/ccstore/index...hic-kit-skull-orange-2012-2015-zr-f-xf-m.html

Has anyone done this? What were the results? How compatible is air intake system of the sled with this hood?

WyoBoy1000 · Aug 22, 2015

Frostbite said:
I haven't been at the Proclimb game nearly as long as most of you but, this sure looks like the best bang for the buck for weight saving off the front of the sled that I have seen at this point. So, what are the positives and negatives to using a hood like this?

http://www.theracinstation.com/Moun...l.htm?productId=-464098&catalogId=-1970&fpg=1

Of course, I would have to buy a white version of the hood and add one of these $49 wraps to spend a whopping $330 on saving 15 lbs. of weight off the front end.

http://countrycat.com/ccstore/index...hic-kit-skull-orange-2012-2015-zr-f-xf-m.html

Has anyone done this? What were the results? How compatible is air intake system of the sled with this hood?

This is what I was planning on testing next, A friend has one but really doesn't care for the intake setup. So I was going to get the intake and hood, then develop a better intake.

That hood setup right drops about 12lbs if you keep the gauge and wiring, then a ti can drops 17lbs - those 2 things for under 1k drops 29-30lbs. In the sled world 30lbs is a big mark and completely changes any sled!!!

Love the fire and ice hood, just want to test this one out. Nice thing is its cheap, so if I decide I don't like it, no big deal

Frostbite · Aug 22, 2015

I'm with you WyomingBoy, the bang for the buck factor seems off the charts!

As long as I don't seem to be following any type of forum protocol here, :face-icon-small-con. I know many of you say to lower the bars and not raise them. The universal chord seems to be that they need to be a little more forward from the stock position. I found this rider in my one of my snowmobile parts boxes. The holes seem to line up with the telescoping bar top and the upper portion is replaceable depending on how much you want to raise the bars (in this case, not much). Here's a picture i just took on my shop bench and a link to the parent website.

http://www.powermadd.com/products/pivotadapterkit.html

Best mods for new 2015 Pro Climb 153" SnoPro Limited

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