Secondary removal and re-install

paramuir · Feb 20, 2010

OK so some of you might have seen my other post with the squealing sound, so i ahve pulled the secondary off and will inspect it from the back today by removeing the 8 screws on the back and not the ratainer ring

after this my questions are as follows....

1.cleaning procedures?

2.when it is in my hand i can turn the two sheaves without any springs pressure abit is this normal?

3. when i re-install it, what should it be torqued to, should there be any type of lube on the drive shaft splines and should the main bolt and the rear 8 go in dry or have some kind of lock on them?

thanks

guidoxpress · Feb 20, 2010

paramuir said:
OK so some of you might have seen my other post with the squealing sound, so i ahve pulled the secondary off and will inspect it from the back today by removeing the 8 screws on the back and not the ratainer ring

after this my questions are as follows....

1.cleaning procedures?

2.when it is in my hand i can turn the two wheels without any springs pressure abit is this normal?

3. when i re-install it, what should it be torqued to, should there be any type of lube on the drive shaft splines and should the main bolt and the rear 8 go in dry or have some kind of lock on them?

thanks

wheels..lol...jk..

1. i cleaned my clutches in the sink with soap/water and a sponge...really good..then dried with compressed air, dont get your greasy hands on the clutch faces after its clean

2. the sheaves

will turn slightly but it should not be very easy...should have some resistance to it....maybe you have a bad spring in there..is it apart yet?

3. just tighten the screws down tight, but not stupid or they wont come off again..so no locktite..i replaced my screws with allen head screws..the phillps head tend to strip when they are hard to get off...

once you remove the spring..if you dont have a clutch tool..it will be a B****H to get back together..and at that point..get a new spring, and put a derlin washer on EACH side of the spring to prevent binding

good luck

paramuir · Feb 20, 2010

well maybe the spring is starting to go weak because i can turn the two "sheaves" about a 1/4 inch or so

I dont have a clutch tool i was just going to pull the bolts off the back and inspect the busings and helix, wasnt going to touch the spring.....hmmm

and the main bolt that holds it on....any locktite? and torque specs?

Redd · Feb 20, 2010

small dap of the blue gue on that bolt, and I think it's only 35 inch lbs. (half a grunt) that's what I do to mine and never had a problem. That's a floating secomdary too, put the washers back where they came from!

paramuir · Feb 20, 2010

will do for sure thanks

and what do you think about the free play in the sheaves?? spring worn out??

what color of replacement spring?

Redd · Feb 20, 2010

paramuir said:
will do for sure thanks

and what do you think about the free play in the sheaves?? spring worn out??

what color of replacement spring?

if yer up in elevations some one else should be able to help you with clutching/gearing.....I'm in Mich. so I prolly can't help much with that.

GKR · Feb 20, 2010

The TEAM secondary is a compression spring only not a torsional so the sheaves can rotate without much spring tension. (That's how it goes in and out of the reverse notch actually) With helix out, check the rollers and clean it out good. It'd good to change the spring, they do sack out after a while. Black/Red TEAM spring worked good for me. Put in a TEAM delrin washer between the cup and sheave too it will help your shifting out a bunch and they are very cheap. Don't lock tite the fasterners on the helix and very light torque as stated otherwise they will be hard to get out. I use a very very small amount of antisieze on the splined shaft just to prevent rust. Blue locktite on the clutch bolt is fine.

zimms · Feb 21, 2010

If your helix has the er cut in it that is your little bit of freeplay your feeling.

paramuir · Feb 22, 2010

so what happends when hot water and soap doesnt work?? It doesnt look like belt dust (the black crap) on the secondary....almost looks like its tarnished or something like that......what do i do next to try and clean that off?

GKR · Feb 22, 2010

Likely some heat discoloration. If the sheave surfaces are smooth and no grooves or any other obvious damage use a scotchbrite pad and work in a circular motion around both clutch faces. Then do the hot soapy water wash and you should be good to go. Don't go crazy trying to get the heat marks out, as long as your clutch faces are clean and smooth you will be in good shape.

paramuir · Feb 22, 2010

CAUTION!!!!!!!!!!! 35lbs is too much! the bolt broke off in the drive shaft......now i have to try and get it out... and find a new one :face-icon-small-sho

guidoxpress · Feb 22, 2010

paramuir said:
CAUTION!!!!!!!!!!! 35lbs is too much! the bolt broke off in the drive shaft......now i have to try and get it out... and find a new one :face-icon-small-sho

WHOA!!

i bet you misunderstood....not 35ft lbs..he said 35 in lbs..lol

the secondary is only 12ft lbs...

good luck

paramuir · Feb 22, 2010

oh man i am an idiot!!!!! when doing it i was like...this seems like way too much...anyways....got the bolt out and got a new one....no dealer in the area had one...but have an awesome bolt supply store in town...bought 3 for like3 bucks!

highview72 · Feb 22, 2010

Be careful not to strip the 8 torx screws holding the helix in. Polaris must think they are really special because they cost me $4.79 each to replace at my local dealer.

guidoxpress · Feb 22, 2010

highview72 said:
Be careful not to strip the 8 torx screws holding the helix in. Polaris must think they are really special because they cost me $4.79 each to replace at my local dealer.

DITTO^^^

i stripped some out bad once and had to tac weld an allen wrech to it to get it off...it sucked..

i went to ACE Hardware, and replaced the torx head screws with very nice stainless allen head ones...since i carry a tool that has this size, its perfect for on the fly changes..and it wont strip out like the crappy torx ones..

cost about $6 for all 8 of them

Redd · Feb 22, 2010

Mathmatically 12 inches = 1 foot. it's about the same with the torque, sorry about yer misunderstanding. I'm sure that all of us has made pretty simple mistakes! I got to be honest, I had a vision of you tighting that up and thinking that and spit beer all over my screen!!!!!! LOL! Sorry man!

resent:

paramuir · Feb 22, 2010

glad i could make you laugh...and sorry for wasting your beer

Redd · Feb 22, 2010

paramuir said:
glad i could make you laugh...and sorry for wasting your beer

try puttin oil in yer truck and forgetting to put the drain plug in..(I didn't start it) but it was mobile 1 synthetic 6 bucks a quart!:face-icon-small-sho

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