easy check for crank seals: spray ether(starting fluid) at the seal behind the clutch and spray in the recoil area, while sled is running. any change in rpm? now,while your spraying, spray around the carb boots, both the airbox side and the motor side. any change in rpm? yes on either above, crank seal or boots not properly placed on the carbs. pretty rare for seals to go out at 4000 miles, unless you buy chit gas or are lame in your summerizing. now back to the carbs. i have heard a million times about carbs being "just cleaned". my money is on the fact that if they were cleaned 4 times the same way, they werent cleaned once. your dealing with the low speed or idle circuit. when you cleaned the carbs, did you remove the fuel screws, air jets and choke plungers? these all affect the idle circuit. i will tell you where the air jets are if you ask, because i got beer money on it says you didnt. did you do the obvious like pull the pilot jets, poke a wire through the holes, all the holes, like the four on the sides and the important ones up the middle? did you remove the fuel screws and account for the springs, o-rings and brass flat washers? did you use compressed air to blow out the carbs or at the least aerosol carb spray? if your still reading, all of these orifices are tied together, so if any of the above mentioned "plugs" were not removed during cleaning, where did the crud in the circuitry go? well, it went right back in! a good soaking doesnt accomplish much either, unless all the circuits are open. now, this is just a light touch on carb cleaning, so to help you with your running problem, how did you do on carb cleaning? 95% of the time, if you have to blip the choke to maintain an idle or run, its carbeuration. the other 5% is reeds, boots, or seals. let me know if you need more assistance.
