xc project

xc_rider08 · Aug 28, 2009

ok guys... so i went and got some pictures for you guys today..

for everyone that doesnt know what is going on... this is the deal... im extending my sled from a 121 to a 141... i have a stock rmk 136 xtra 10 suspension with elkholm welded on rail extensions...

i have run into a few minor problems or at least i hope they are minor

so i dropped from 9 tooth drivers down to 7 tooth drivers and i got plenty of clearence for the bulk head...

but im runnign into problems that when i bolt the suspension up in the front i have no clearance for the track against the cooling tubes...

so my question is can i drop the front suspension mouting bolts down to the 2nd hole and be able to run it??? im trying to avoid having to notch the track out...

the next problem im having is i dont think i put the suspension back together right.. as i have barely have any clearance from the front of the skid to the drivers... it just doesnt seem right to me... someone tell me what i did wrong???

thanks for the help, xc_rider08

06 RMK 900 · Aug 28, 2009

Kyle i'm thinking we drill a second hole and drop it down a couple inches that should give you the clearance for the track and coolors and it would also bring your rail away from the driver a little.

06 RMK 900 · Aug 29, 2009

TTT, No one has a clue?

sledder · Aug 29, 2009

Where you went from 9 tooth to 7 tooth your drivers are further away from the bottom of the tunnel anyway so you are going to have to drop your suspension so your track doesn't rub on the front swing arm protectors and wear them out and as for the drivers and susp clearance the suspension goes on the side of the drivers on all the older sleds as long as the susp doesnt hit the drive shaft you are ok unless your going to run antiratchets then you will have to cut your rail tips I would also drop the rear of the susp as far as you drop the front. let me know if that helps

xc_rider08 · Aug 29, 2009

thanks sledder... im goign to work on this thign today... but pretty much just taking measurements and comparing the 121 to the 141 suspension...

will also try some of the things you recommend but not make it permantly... just find something to hold it in that position to get a some what of an idea... dont want to make the tunnel swiss cheese

sledder said:
Where you went from 9 tooth to 7 tooth your drivers are further away from the bottom of the tunnel anyway so you are going to have to drop your suspension so your track doesn't rub on the front swing arm protectors and wear them out and as for the drivers and susp clearance the suspension goes on the side of the drivers on all the older sleds as long as the susp doesnt hit the drive shaft you are ok unless your going to run antiratchets then you will have to cut your rail tips I would also drop the rear of the susp as far as you drop the front. let me know if that helps

xc_rider08 · Aug 29, 2009

some more pics when we had it bolted up.. dont knwo if these will help either

sledder · Aug 29, 2009

what you need to do is take your track out and measure from the top dead center of your drivers to the tunnel then go to the front hole and do the same measurement plus you have to add the distance from your bolt hole to the top of the swing arm protector and go that much further down. thanks chaz

jreed · Aug 29, 2009

drop it

Hey Kyle,
Havin fun yet? Gotta love the projects! You need to drop the whole thing. Lower the front enough for good clearance and drop the back accordingly. You need drop brackets in the rear. Remember that skid came off an ekholm tunnel and was set up to run that way. You'll have to adjust it and tune it to work good on your chassis. I still have some good pics of the two sleds that had that set-up. They're too big to post but I could email them to you if you want. Let me know.

xc_rider08 · Aug 29, 2009

ok so here is what i did today..

i found out the from the tip of the rail to the front mounting bolt for the limiter straps.. that the 121 skid is 1" shorter then the rmk skid..

so i was told as an option that i may have to cut that 1" off the rmk skid up front and it would clear perfectly...

the next thing i did was drop the front mounting bolt down 1" to the next hole... i didnt drill the hole into the tunnel i just used a ratchet strap to to hold it in place so these are all roughly placed...

so here is the the suspension in the stock holes with it suspended off the ground... Is the track way to loose to just tighten up with the rear axel???

here are the pics with the suspension dropped down 1" up front ..

and here is the pictures of the drivers and the rail front tips. (the rails have not been cut down)

with dropping it down approximately and 1" i know have cleared my cooling tubes up top.. so that woudl not be an issue anymore..

this is how much slack i have in the track after i dropped it down the 1" up front

that has got to be too much for the rear axel to take up??? or am i wrong???

manowar · Aug 30, 2009

Yea you are going to haft to move the skid back in the tunnel you will never adjust 5"of slack out.Adjust your axel all the way forward and move the skid back to take up as much slack as posable then mesaure and drill new holes. Or just call me7153057177

spook222 · Aug 30, 2009

also, may want to be careful how much rail tip you cut off as you don't want to cut off enough rise on the front of the rails that you end up stabbing your track. Had that happen when I dropped and rolled my rmk chaincase. Don't get frustrated, it'll all fall into place

sledder · Aug 30, 2009

I would move your susp back 1.5" and how does the track and the front swing arm look is the track riding on the arm protectors? if so I would also drop it more this way you would still have good approach angle and you wont have to cut your rails. If you want you can give me a call also (801)829-8343 Thanks chaz

HUNDO · Aug 30, 2009

Kyle, I have a complete Xtra-10 136 with 144 extensions if you want it or need parts. Looking at your photos, there is something wrong with the front suspension arm placement...it looks way too close to the rails at the front though from what I'm reading, it may be set up differently because of the ekholm tunnel

The last swap that I did on an under-tunnel cooler setup, I notched the track to be safe. It will hit the underside of the tunnel with only 1" of clearance but who knows how hard til you try it

.

Andy

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