Jaws Pipe Review

NoSoup4U · Dec 14, 2018

Got a chance to test the Jaws 850 pipe today on my 18 175 at 8-9k elevation. My sled has the stock silencer, Joey's clutch kit from ibackshift, and 19/53 gearing. Snow conditions were ok but not great. There was some decent powder on the north and east slopes for testing in some of our "secret" spots.

Just bolting on the pipe with no clutch changes my RPM increased over the stock stock pipe by approximately 200 RPM on a powder climb. Stock I had been running 7900 flashing 8000 occasionally and with the Jaws pipe I was seeing 8100-8200. After adding some weight to the pivot bolt to bring the RPM down to the recommended 8000-8100, I compared track speed to my "mule" sled, which is my 17Axys 174 with the Bikeman pipe, y-pipe and tune. The Axys runs strong, and ran pretty comparable at full throttle to my 850 before I add Jaws pipe. Testing the two side by side today, I feel confident that my 850 with the Jaws pipe (and clutching adjusted) pulls at least 5% more track speed than it did with the stock pipe.

I was riding with my son today and didn't say anything about adding the pipe. We traded sleds for a while and after we traded back the first the first thing he said was "that things running strong today, what have you done with it?"

The combination of the Jaws pipe, Joey's clutch kit and 19/53 gearing is muy bueno in my opinion.

i'llDooit · Dec 15, 2018

I just got my Christmas bonus. Time to call jaws?

Andystoy · Dec 24, 2018

Got my pipe a couple of days ago, finished install yesterday. First impressions are:
the pipe is very well made, nice welds inside and out, the pipe has some insulation and a 4 piece aluminum clam shell cover. It appears to be slightly thicker than the BRP clamshell and is more difficult to mold to the pipe; as a result it is more difficult to work with for fit and finish but still acceptable.
No savings in weight for the Y pipe and pipe, about the same according to the bathroom scale?
Y pipe is longer, straighter and larger resulting in less restriction at the header portion of the pipe(resulting in better exhaust scavenging because of less turbulence and back pressure?).
The Y pipe and pipe fit the chassis similarly to the stock pipe. 4 springs on the Jaws vs 3 on the stock. Pipe sensor fits without splicing wires etc. Check your steering post interference, mine touched the clamshell at full left turn but I was able to file the interference away with a file. Removing your 6 mm Y pipe bolts can be a real pain unless you have a long allen wrench and some patience, I bought a set with the ball on the end which improved things a lot.

The Jaws trail can is about 7 lbs. lighter than stock, sensor just fits without splicing, utilizes the stock mounting points. Sounds okay at idle, I hate loud cans, so we will see if its a keeper once I run it wide open at the lake to start clutch tuning. The can is ceramic chrome so it looks pretty and is well made.

I am set up to run 7950 RPM (clicker 1 stock at the lake and clicker 3 at Valemount) at the lake at about 2500' elevation so after Christmas I will go up and do some runs for comparison, add weight etc and update my post. FYI

live2beel · Dec 27, 2018

So there should be a lot of these pipes out there. Everyone still loving them? What RPM are you clutching for? Added timing or not? Thanks

NoSoup4U · Dec 28, 2018

I've got 3 rides in on mine now. Still happy with it. I haven't added timing. No hick-ups or surprises at all, runs like the stock pipe only stronger. Pipe likes to be run hot. I've noticed a little drop in RPM on the first run up the hill if I have been stopped for a few minutes to adjust the clutching or BS'ing, but the RPM come right back up and stays there once you get some heat back in the pipe.

As far as RPM goes, I'm still testing that. I'm running 8-9K elevation, and running a clutch kit from ibackshift with the stock 965 arms. With the stock pipe I was pulling pretty solid 7900 and it would flash 8000 ocassionally. I have tried three different clutching set-ups with the following results:

I've added approximately 1.8 grams to the pivot bolt and my RPM vary between 8000 and pulls down to 7900 for a second or so when the track loads hard. This set-up has a very torquey feel and is slightly slower to rev than the other set-ups. Track speed on a powder climb is good along with acceleration runs accross the meadow against my mule sled. This is the first set-up I tried and have the least amount of testing with it since I had heard that peak HP was produced closer to 8100.

The second set-up I added approximately 1.2 grams to the pivot bolt an my RPM is a pretty solid 8000 and will flash 7900 occasionally when the track loads hard and 8100 when it unloads. This set-up feels slightly less torquey and rev's slightly faster than than the previous set-up. I have tested this set-up the most and it is a solid performer in both track speed and acceleration compared to stock.

The third set-up I tried is adding approximately .6 grams to the pivot bolt. My RPM with this set-up is mostly 8100 and dropping to 8000 occasionally when the track loads hard. The set-up has a very revy fell to it and seat of the pants could be mistaken to be the best performer. However, when comparing track speed on a powder climb and acceleration runs across the meadow against my mule sled, this set-up offers little if any performance increase over the stock pipe.

My testing so far says that peak performance is found around 8000, and at 8100 your dropping off the power curve. The pipe has a very broad torque curve and seems to like clutching that loads it pretty hard. I am going to run 1.8 grams again next ride since I didn't do much testing with the set-up and see how it compares to 1.2 grams. I'm sure that my final set-up will be either 1.2 or 1.8 grams with RPM mostly around 8000.

2/4/19 update: I've ended up at 2.4 grams heavier and pulling a solid 8000. Was able to keep adding weight without the rpm dropping.

live2beel · Dec 28, 2018

NoSoup4U said:
I've got 3 rides in on mine now. Still happy with it. I haven't added timing. No hick-ups or surprises at all, runs like the stock pipe only stronger. Pipe likes to be run hot. I've noticed a little drop in RPM on the first run up the hill if I have been stopped for a few minutes to adjust the clutching or BS'ing, but the RPM come right back up and stays there once you get some heat back in the pipe.

As far as RPM goes, I'm still testing that. I'm running 8-9K elevation, and running a clutch kit from ibackshift with the stock 965 arms. With the stock pipe I was pulling pretty solid 7900 and it would flash 8000 ocassionally. I have tried three different clutching set-ups with the following results:

I've added approximately 1.8 grams to the pivot bolt and my RPM vary between 8000 and pulls down to 7900 for a second or so when the track loads hard. This set-up has a very torquey feel and is slightly slower to rev than the other set-ups. Track speed on a powder climb is good along with acceleration runs accross the meadow against my mule sled. This is the first set-up I tried and have the least amount of testing with it since I had heard that peak HP was produced closer to 8100.

The second set-up I added approximately 1.2 grams to the pivot bolt an my RPM is a pretty solid 8000 and will flash 7900 occasionally when the track loads hard and 8100 when it unloads. This set-up feels slightly less torquey and rev's slightly faster than than the previous set-up. I have tested this set-up the most and it is a solid performer in both track speed and acceleration compared to stock.

The third set-up I tried is adding approximately .6 grams to the pivot bolt. My RPM with this set-up is mostly 8100 and dropping to 8000 occasionally when the track loads hard. The set-up has a very revy fell to it and seat of the pants could be mistaken to be the best performer. However, when comparing track speed on a powder climb and acceleration runs across the meadow against my mule sled, this set-up offers little if any performance increase over the stock pipe.

My testing so far says that peak performance is found around 8000, and at 8100 your dropping off the power curve. The pipe has a very broad torque curve and seems to like clutching that loads it pretty hard. I am going to run 1.8 grams again next ride since I didn't do much testing with the set-up and see how it compares to 1.2 grams. I'm sure that my final set-up will be either 1.2 or 1.8 grams with RPM mostly around 8000.

Everything you said is spot on for what I’ve seen. Pipe works best 7950-8000. At 8100 it is just zingy. And yes, it’s a very cold pipe.

Matte Murder · Dec 28, 2018

Have you tried more than 1.8 grams? Are your clickers on 3-4 all the time?

NoSoup4U · Dec 28, 2018

Haven't tried more than 1.8 grams. All testing on clicker 3. My guess is that if I went to the next increment (2.4 grams), that I would pull 7900 most of the time and drop to 7800 when the track loads hard. Going to run 1.8 gams again tomorrow, and if I see that it is pulling 8000 most of the time on a powder climb I may try 2.4 grams to see what happens.

die hard poo · Dec 28, 2018

From the latest dyno tech pipe shoot out, looks like this pipe responds best with the 2* timing since it keeps more heat in the cylinder vs the pipe. With stock timing it was only making around 5-7 more hp vs stock. Then with timing it went back to the 10-12 hp as advertised. Thanks for the review! Oh and in the latest shoot out, the pipe didn't like to go past 8000rpm for some reason, maybe it since it was a different sled.

live2beel · Dec 28, 2018

die hard poo said:
From the latest dyno tech pipe shoot out, looks like this pipe responds best with the 2* timing since it keeps more heat in the cylinder vs the pipe. With stock timing it was only making around 5-7 more hp vs stock. Then with timing it went back to the 10-12 hp as advertised. Thanks for the review! Oh and in the latest shoot out, the pipe didn't like to go past 8000rpm for some reason, maybe it since it was a different sled.

So 5-7 hp without any timing. Did you see this yourself on Dynotech or is it hearsay? The reason I say this is because your saying you can almost double your hp with a little timing.

Andystoy · Dec 28, 2018

The latest pipe shootout is posted on dynotech research site if you are a member. I read the article at least 5 times and I have more questions than answers, but each to their own.

Both the Jaws and the pipe shootout pulls were done with approximately 93 Octane fuel (PetroCan Ultra?) which has ethanol in it. I plan to run 91 octane no ethanol fuel in mine (I prefer to sip a bit of ethanol after supper) but won't run it in anything that sits for a while, as it can absorb moisture from the air and become corrosive. Jaws do not recommend 2 deg of added timing with 91 octane fuel and feel the pipe will produce at least 10 Hp over stock anyway. The downside of added timing is that if your fuel is a bit stale from sitting in your sled or at the gas station and the engine senses detonation it pulls timing resulting in less Hp not more as advertised. JMO

die hard poo · Dec 28, 2018

live2beel said:
So 5-7 hp without any timing. Did you see this yourself on Dynotech or is it hearsay? The reason I say this is because your saying you can almost double your hp with a little timing.

Yes the new dynotech article is out showing this. Basically all the pipes make more power with timing... They weren't quite sure why timing was helping the pipe so much other than that the pipes all really want to rev past 8000 rpm but the ecu starts to kill power at the wall. So with added timing it allows the power band to be shifted lower in the RPM band.. At least that's what dtr stated. I have a timing key Ill be throwing in with a Jaws low altitude pipe once it shows up. I will start with mixed gas and lean it back to see if mixed fuel is required with this combo (I can only get 90 octane fuel at the pump).

Rotax_Kid · Dec 28, 2018

NoSoup4U said:
I've got 3 rides in on mine now. Still happy with it. I haven't added timing. No hick-ups or surprises at all, runs like the stock pipe only stronger. Pipe likes to be run hot. I've noticed a little drop in RPM on the first run up the hill if I have been stopped for a few minutes to adjust the clutching or BS'ing, but the RPM come right back up and stays there once you get some heat back in the pipe.

As far as RPM goes, I'm still testing that. I'm running 8-9K elevation, and running a clutch kit from ibackshift with the stock 965 arms. With the stock pipe I was pulling pretty solid 7900 and it would flash 8000 ocassionally. I have tried three different clutching set-ups with the following results:

I've added approximately 1.8 grams to the pivot bolt and my RPM vary between 8000 and pulls down to 7900 for a second or so when the track loads hard. This set-up has a very torquey feel and is slightly slower to rev than the other set-ups. Track speed on a powder climb is good along with acceleration runs accross the meadow against my mule sled. This is the first set-up I tried and have the least amount of testing with it since I had heard that peak HP was produced closer to 8100.

The second set-up I added approximately 1.2 grams to the pivot bolt an my RPM is a pretty solid 8000 and will flash 7900 occasionally when the track loads hard and 8100 when it unloads. This set-up feels slightly less torquey and rev's slightly faster than than the previous set-up. I have tested this set-up the most and it is a solid performer in both track speed and acceleration compared to stock.

The third set-up I tried is adding approximately .6 grams to the pivot bolt. My RPM with this set-up is mostly 8100 and dropping to 8000 occasionally when the track loads hard. The set-up has a very revy fell to it and seat of the pants could be mistaken to be the best performer. However, when comparing track speed on a powder climb and acceleration runs across the meadow against my mule sled, this set-up offers little if any performance increase over the stock pipe.

My testing so far says that peak performance is found around 8000, and at 8100 your dropping off the power curve. The pipe has a very broad torque curve and seems to like clutching that loads it pretty hard. I am going to run 1.8 grams again next ride since I didn't do much testing with the set-up and see how it compares to 1.2 grams. I'm sure that my final set-up will be either 1.2 or 1.8 grams with RPM mostly around 8000.

Just my own experience but I'd try moving up to clicker 4 and add about 1.5g to cover the top end rpm increase. I found when using pivot weight for adjustment 1 5-~2g accounted for a rpm increase/decrease of 200rpm. Higher pivot position, considering you maintain the same top end rpm will load the motor harder below top end rpm.

ak · Dec 28, 2018

https://www.dootalk.com/forums/topi...e-system-rocks-dynotech/page-30#entry22604873

Lots of good info on the jaws pipe both times it was tested and why there might be differences between both test sleds.

Andystoy · Jan 28, 2019

Finally got out to test my jaws Y pipe, pipe and trail silencer combo:

2017 Summit X. 165 x 3 850 at 544m(1790') elevation about -5C, 6" of fresh snow on a settled base of more than a 1', sled with rider about 210 lbs. 800 km (500 miles and 30 hrs. on a very slow break in). Stock pipe pulls 7900 to 8000 RPM on clicker one.

Installed DJ pivot weights 1.8 x 3 total weight 5.30 gms. on my scale, the engine pulled 7900 to 8000 RPM instantly and held RPM constant until I backed off at about 80 km/50 mph. I tried all different speeds from 0 to 40 mph many, many times for about 30 minutes total and the engine pulled the same consistent RPM. The drive and driven sheaves were hot to the touch but you could keep your fingers on both without feeling too hot; the belt was warm to slightly hot but much cooler than the sheaves. The front grill is screened and I have the latest doo intake installed as well as a front shock tower intake and one left side front panel exhaust. I am on the original belt and have not ridden in the steep and deep with big powder. Clutch engagement is about 3800 +/- RPM.

The Jaws pipe combo is a keeper, I expect to ride on clicker 3 at Valemount. I may try to reduce the combined pivot weight about one gram because I would like to see a consistent 8000 plus RPM at this altitude. The gasoline was 91 octane no ethanol mixture with about half a tank of 5 week old gasoline and half a tank of fresh. No added timing now or in the future!

I don't like noisy cans and the trail can was about stock noise level at idle and in the snow with a louder tone when out of the snow, so far its a keeper as well. No codes or check engine lights and once the coating burnt off the exhaust no one noticed or commented on the difference, a real sleeper. FYI

Tylerdurdan · Jan 28, 2019

Looking for a stock 19 pipe pm me if you have one

Andystoy · Jan 28, 2019

Forgot to mention that throttle response was very crisp at all RPM. My stock pipe and silencer are 2017, haven't checked part numbers but I think they are the same, no change in 2018 or 2019?

gatewest · Feb 4, 2019

Ran good for 400 miles, THEN!

2017 Summit X 850 1600 miles.
Y - pipe, pipe, and can.
Added one degree timing.
Ran awesome for 400 miles in West Yellowstone area.
Front band clamp broke at the weld area under pipe.
End up burning 3 large 2" holes in air box under hood.
Beware! Not enough clearance between setup and airbox/hood.
Patch and repair air box, repair band clamp, put back together.
850 won't run right now, hope it didn't suck any pieces of plastic into the motor.
It's sitting in the trailer now, check engine light on now.
Have the Jaws set for sale cheap, hope my motor isn't toast.
In Pinedale now having to rent, learned my lesson, poor workmanship on Jaws part.
Wishing I could ride my own sled.

NoSoup4U · Feb 4, 2019

gatewest said:
2017 Summit X 850 1600 miles.
Y - pipe, pipe, and can.
Added one degree timing.
Ran awesome for 400 miles in West Yellowstone area.
Front band clamp broke at the weld area under pipe.
End up burning 3 large 2" holes in air box under hood.
Beware! Not enough clearance between setup and airbox/hood.
Patch and repair air box, repair band clamp, put back together.
850 won't run right now, hope it didn't suck any pieces of plastic into the motor.
It's sitting in the trailer now, check engine light on now.
Have the Jaws set for sale cheap, hope my motor isn't toast.
In Pinedale now having to rent, learned my lesson, poor workmanship on Jaws part.
Wishing I could ride my own sled.

Thanks for the heads up. Checked mine out and don't see any problems. Did you by any chance install the front band clamp backwards? The reason I ask is because I did initially and the pipe didn't sit correctly on the support. It made the pipe sit too high and when I put the hood back on it was a tight fit because the pipe was rubbing against the air box. I think over time if it was installed like this the vibration would probably break the weld on the clamp. I reversed the clamp and then everything fit like it should. Also, did you remove the felt liner that is between the air box and the engine compartment? I can see where removal could lead to some melted plastic as the liner provides insulation between the pipe and air box.

gatewest · Feb 5, 2019

Front Clamp and felt?

Yes I have removed the felt. I want more clearance and air space between the two.

I will check the front clamp, but I thought I follow directions.

Which side (nose end or motor end) does the long side of the strap go towards?????

Jaws Pipe Review

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