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TRS Clutching [ PART FOUR ]

Davajn

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Interesting combo. Really like that you are able to run that low weights. Doesnt make it sluggish in the start hopefully?

Tony, do you know if IS has started to make true lightning copies yet? Mailed them but they never answer me.

Got a IS setup now but id like to try that one. Or something that works for high boost setups (10-15psi)

Here is where we ended up this week on a ‘16 Sidekick
125-175 Red/Gray secondary spring
42-32F helix
70g Lightning weights
150-310 Almond/Blue primary
Gates belt
Secondary set at .130” in from the 191 SLP bar.
Pro pulleys
5 days 350+ miles no belt issues.
Gregg is all smiles

Here is a pic of his clutch after 5 days
 

TRS

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Interesting combo. Really like that you are able to run that low weights. Doesnt make it sluggish in the start hopefully?

Tony, do you know if IS has started to make true lightning copies yet? Mailed them but they never answer me.

Got a IS setup now but id like to try that one. Or something that works for high boost setups (10-15psi)

I can’t say, I haven’t had a set of Dans to compare.
No sir, not sluggish. Very important to set belt to sheave as close to .030” as possible. More than 30 and it will hit hard and slip the belt.
Have witnessed stock clutches and 10 weights up to .100” from the factory.
 

Wheel House Motorsports

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I can’t say, I haven’t had a set of Dans to compare.
No sir, not sluggish. Very important to set belt to sheave as close to .030” as possible. More than 30 and it will hit hard and slip the belt.
Have witnessed stock clutches and 10 weights up to .100” from the factory.
I can vouch for this. My sled is about .090" No wonder It engages like trash and made insane heat stock.

For those concerned about "sluggish feel"

Realize guys spend $$$$ to run TI bolts pins etc in clutch to drop a few grams to reduce rotational mass. We are dropping a couple grams per arm with this setup and getting better belt grab/shift. So you get more "snap' with less weight along with a much smoother and stronger pull due to less slip/heat.
 

TRS

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Got a IS setup now but id like to try that one. Or something that works for high boost setups (10-15psi)

To be honest, once you have your clutching dialed in you won’t need 10-15# of boost. But I like your thinking. Would like to clutch 15#. Keeping a 7# kit with a 155 under control this weekend was a chore, fun on the Hill though. Dance dance dance
 
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S7even

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I see that you set that sidekick up with a 125-175 secondary spring, what gains are you seeing with that instead of the 140-220 spring? I only have 68 gram lightnings instead of 70 like that sidekick has, do you think I'll see any drawbacks to running those compared to the 70s?
 

TRS

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I see that you set that sidekick up with a 125-175 secondary spring, what gains are you seeing with that instead of the 140-220 spring? I only have 68 gram lightnings instead of 70 like that sidekick has, do you think I'll see any drawbacks to running those compared to the 70s?

68s turn 8600 at our elevation. An almond/gold primary may work
Belt life.
Clutch off set is critical in all setups

B16F4E66-BC22-4952-BE8C-703FCA93FEC4.jpg
 
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S7even

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Most of my riding is between 6000-8000ft and they actually weigh 68.6 if that makes any difference. Are you referring to the venom almond 165-327 spring or a different almond spring? Do you recommend starting out with the 125-175 instead of the 140-220 secondary with this setup? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get a good baseline to start from with the springs.
 

TRS

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Almond/Gold from Polaris 150-290.
If you have the 42-32F, yes use the 125-175 spring.
This is a best guess for your app without testing it.

C9B21224-41C5-4D32-A0DC-C82373510E49.jpeg
 
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tdbaugha

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Most of my riding is between 6000-8000ft and they actually weigh 68.6 if that makes any difference. Are you referring to the venom almond 165-327 spring or a different almond spring? Do you recommend starting out with the 125-175 instead of the 140-220 secondary with this setup? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get a good baseline to start from with the springs.

With the 42-32F helix, I run a 100-200 as do a handful of other turbos. But no sidekicks that I know of. We're all running 74+ grams. 125-175 and 100-200 secondary springs would be the two options to start with.

If you have a 46-32F helix, the 125-175 will most likely not work. It didn't for me with 74g primary setup. I'd use a 140-200 spring for that helix.
 

TRS

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With the 42-32F helix, I run a 100-200 as do a handful of other turbos. But no sidekicks that I know of. We're all running 74+ grams. 125-175 and 100-200 secondary springs would be the two options to start with.

If you have a 46-32F helix, the 125-175 will most likely not work. It didn't for me with 74g primary setup. I'd use a 140-200 spring for that helix.

Tory, how much boost with the 74s
 

S7even

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I completely missed the 42-32 helix part of that setup. I read it fast and thought it said 46-32 which is the helix I ordered. I'm still waiting on the helix and springs and I'd originally ordered the 140-220. I'll order the 140-200 as well now. What do you like better with the 200 instead of 220 spring? Thank you guys for the help.
 

tdbaugha

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Like 9lbs at 6000’

Seems like a lot huh? Well couple reasons why. 1) That’s read at the compressor housing. After going through the w/a intercooler it drops ~1-1.5 psi at the TB. And the Mtntk kit pulls timing some.

But for apples to apples, I’m running 2 gallons of 100ll for every 4 gallons of 91.
 
I
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Has anyone been checking their clutch temps with an infrared gun? I’m curious what temps are normal or good?
 

ez-ryder

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What is the theory behind having the belt to sheave at 30 vs. Say 10.
I know it will engage more abruptly. And up the engage rpm with a particular spring.

I set mine to 5ish on a new belt.
This was done before these threads.


My setup
700 dragon bd turbo
3500-6500 feet
10 lbs
174 2.5 ce
19/41 gears on 3.0 pitch 7 tooth. Which is .92 underdrive?
42-34 helix started at 140-220 now 140-200
75g lighting lightened to 72g
140-320 pri spring 4100 engage
Using a dayco Xtx (sorry good deal)

I'm still seeing more rpm at a given boost after I changed from the 220 to 200 finish on the sec spring.
This is versus a 44-50 and a 180-280 running the same weights and springs

Is there a lighter sec spring I should try? Or maybe I should have got a 36 finish on my helix.
 
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tdbaugha

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What is the theory behind having the belt to sheave at 30 vs. Say 10.
I know it will engage more abruptly. And up the engage rpm with a particular spring.

I set mine to 5ish on a new belt.
This was done before these threads.


My setup
700 dragon bd turbo
3500-6500 feet
10 lbs
174 2.5 ce
19/41 gears on 3.0 pitch 7 tooth. Which is .92 underdrive?
42-34 helix started at 140-220 now 140-200
75g lighting lightened to 72g
140-320 pri spring 4100 engage
Using a dayco Xtx (sorry good deal)

I'm still seeing more rpm at a given boost after I changed from the 220 to 200 finish on the sec spring.
This is versus a 44-50 and a 180-280 running the same weights and springs

Is there a lighter sec spring I should try? Or maybe I should have got a 36 finish on my helix.

No. I'd be willing to bet either one of those things will increase RPM. I heard this same thing from a guy down in Idaho the other day. With the 34° finish and a 200lb spring, you're probably already slipping the belt in the secondary as is. Lightening the spring or increasing the helix angle is going to make the slippage worse.

I don't know of anyone with a 42-34, but I run a 42-32 with the 100-200 spring. I think if I were you, I'd get a venom red/green which is a 120-220. You could also reduce your primary spring to a Polaris 150-290 or the Hot seat performance 140-285 (what I run).

If you're still over revving, decrease the boost, or get new weights.
 
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