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Arctic Cat: Proclimb M 2012 and beyond
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  #1  
Old 01-09-2019, 12:31 PM
Sledbrain2 Sledbrain2 is offline
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Default Looking for riding help on Proclimb;

I have a 2014(16 front end) 162 with camo 3 inch and with K-Mod suspension. I do not get to the mountains as much as I would like so I do not have that many rides on this sled. I have been riding for close to 30 years and came off an M series. What I have a difficult time doing is controlling sled on up hill deep and steep conditions. While going up a deep snow hill with trees you get to the point where you are losing speed and need to turn out or side hill. I will jump on the up hill side while sled is still going basically up and slight to left or right. The sled will start going the way I want and start to side hill then all of a sudden it will turn up hill and I am stuck shortly after. My feet position (mid tunnel wrong ft)is what is turning the sled back up hill. I am riding the way I have rode the mountains for years to turn out of a climb. I believe I need to stay straddled on sled and wait until the sled is in a full blown side hill to move to the up hill side with the proclimb. I have not played with the coupling as it is set on number one position, do not think that would help.
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Old 01-09-2019, 02:29 PM
Bacon Bacon is offline
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Stay further ahead on the sled.
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Old 01-09-2019, 02:49 PM
boondocker97 boondocker97 is online now
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Yep get forward with your feet so you are right up to the foot wells. This was the biggest change I noticed moving from the M series to the Proclimb. Running the 2016 front spindles and 162 Kmod as well on mine. I rarely ever get out of the #1 coupler position. Used #2 maybe 5 times in the last two seasons when I was climbing up something or trying to get out of a hole in a hairy uphill situation. I usually keep a foot on each running board until after I've made the turn and am really getting into the sidehill.
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Old 01-10-2019, 09:38 AM
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Is your kmod on floats or raptor shock's? I have a 2012 with 16 front end and kmod with floats. Try getting more forward on sled. I always run on the number 1 coupler.
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Old 01-10-2019, 11:26 AM
Sledbrain2 Sledbrain2 is offline
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Originally Posted by Nextime View Post
Is your kmod on floats or raptor shock's? I have a 2012 with 16 front end and kmod with floats. Try getting more forward on sled. I always run on the number 1 coupler.

Raptor,
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Old 01-10-2019, 01:43 PM
sno*jet sno*jet is online now
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Originally Posted by Sledbrain2 View Post
The sled will start going the way I want and start to side hill then all of a sudden it will turn up hill and I am stuck shortly after. My feet position (mid tunnel wrong ft)is what is turning the sled back up hill. I am riding the way I have rode the mountains for years to turn out of a climb. I believe I need to stay straddled on sled and wait until the sled is in a full blown side hill to move to the up hill side with the proclimb.
can you counter steer out of the washout? I think in 15 or 16 they did something in the steering that lets you steer (or counter steer) a little sharper. before that, the "wyo mod" sounded like a must have for steep sidhilling.
my foot stays forward much as possible if its trying to turn up. handlebar riser vertical, not angled back at all will help you stay on top of it.
and not to blame skis for everything but I had trouble with stock skis catching and throwing my lines off. grippers or Mohawks are so much more predictable.
skinny boards and wyo mod would be on my list if I had an older proclimb.
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Old 01-10-2019, 06:52 PM
Vern Vern is offline
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as stated get farther forward on the boards, in my experience the proclimb is very sensitive to foot placement. I rode an m series for 8 years before my proclimb, theres definitely a learning curve.
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Old 01-11-2019, 09:18 AM
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SledBrain2, I have the same problem that you describe.

"I will jump on the up hill side while sled is still going basically up and slight to left or right. The sled will start going the way I want and start to side hill then all of a sudden it will turn up hill and I am stuck shortly after".

Looking back at my stucks over the years, they all look just as you describe. I thought it was just me and mine may even be worse, due to having a 153" x 3" track.

So, it sounds like the trick is staying as far forward a possible and probably keeping your telescopic handlebars as low and forward as possible?

Maybe swapping to a fixed bar set up might help move us further forward?
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Old 01-11-2019, 09:39 AM
Vern Vern is offline
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When my 14 had the stock adj. post it was always in the lowest position possible then I had the 2" rox risers pushing the bars straight forward so the bars were 2" forward from stock. I believe this definitely help to keep me forward on the sled which in turn help'd the washing out/turning uphill. Now I have the hcr fixed post with a 2" riser on it. Height comes out to roughly 2" lower than the adj. post all the way down. I'm 6' and it may be a bit low for stand up riding in flat ground, but technical riding and climbing it is great. I to have a 153 and being a bit of a fatty the sled loves to pull the skis up in climbs so the low bars helps keep more weight forward.

I've also added the cat pro mtn skinny boards and pulled my side panels in. Then I cut the plastic out at the front edge of the running boards even with the tube like on the '17 mtn cat and newer sled which gives you a tiny bit more room to get your feet more forward when side hilling. Not a major change, but all this adds up to making a great sidehiller in my experience.
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Old 01-11-2019, 10:28 AM
Sledbrain2 Sledbrain2 is offline
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Old 03-11-2019, 06:11 PM
Sledbrain2 Sledbrain2 is offline
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