They won't total it out for a cooler.
18 Free-Ride Cooler is Shot....
- Thread starter ktm131rob
- Start date
80% is the USUALLY the total threshold.
Ace
Ace
Since the damage was not a warranty repair... a patch will not affect the warranty on the sled unless it leaks and caused overheating.
Acrylic Fusor or Lords 406 would be the call from experience... more appropriate choice compared to epoxy in terms of prep, adhesion over temp shifts, flex and it is very tough.
You will only need a small piece of ) .060" aluminum for the patch... and the adhesive.
Hang high by rear bumper.... drain the coolant past the leak... then scuff with scotch brite.... clean with alcohol ... allow it to dry and apply the patch at normal room temp... not below 60˚F. Will cure in 6 minutes and be ready to fill and start then.
That patch will be there permanently... AND, should you choose later to remove it... you can with a heat gun or torch easily.
Make sure to follow proper fill/bleed procedures when you add coolant.
https://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236325
https://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=328615
https://www.chemical-concepts.com/snow-mobile-repair-kit-1.html
Good luck.
Acrylic Fusor or Lords 406 would be the call from experience... more appropriate choice compared to epoxy in terms of prep, adhesion over temp shifts, flex and it is very tough.
You will only need a small piece of ) .060" aluminum for the patch... and the adhesive.
Hang high by rear bumper.... drain the coolant past the leak... then scuff with scotch brite.... clean with alcohol ... allow it to dry and apply the patch at normal room temp... not below 60˚F. Will cure in 6 minutes and be ready to fill and start then.
That patch will be there permanently... AND, should you choose later to remove it... you can with a heat gun or torch easily.
Make sure to follow proper fill/bleed procedures when you add coolant.
https://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236325
https://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=328615
https://www.chemical-concepts.com/snow-mobile-repair-kit-1.html
Good luck.
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do you know that the cooler is part of the tunnel?
Yes. I still don't think they'd total it if the tunnel had to be changed.
Anyways, looking at the parts fiche...looks removable to me?
https://www.ronniesmailorder.com/oe...f/frame-freeride-engine-850-e-tec-package-137
Can anyone confirm?
K
Here is the exploded view of that tunnel, can you explain how its one piece? i have heard this before and just want clarification.
K
Since the damage was not a warranty repair... a patch will not affect the warranty on the sled unless it leaks and caused overheating.
Acrylic Fusor or Lords 406 would be the call from experience... more appropriate choice compared to epoxy in terms of prep, adhesion over temp shifts, flex and it is very tough.
You will only need a small piece of ) .060" aluminum for the patch... and the adhesive.
Hang high by rear bumper.... drain the coolant past the leak... then scuff with scotch brite.... clean with alcohol ... allow it to dry and apply the patch at normal room temp... not below 60˚F. Will cure in 6 minutes and be ready to fill and start then.
That patch will be there permanently... AND, should you choose later to remove it... you can with a heat gun or torch easily.
Make sure to follow proper fill/bleed procedures when you add coolant.
https://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=236325
https://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=328615
https://www.chemical-concepts.com/snow-mobile-repair-kit-1.html
Good luck.
This is pretty indepth we may not use this on this sled but I will be saving these instructions for the next time. Thanks a bunch
Yep... Part #10,
Assembly Radiator 137
518330131
Your Price: $549.99
The whole 'frame' assembly, without the front modules, is PN:415130191, Black Tunnel Module Freeride 137, $2,794.99 USD
That cooler (aka 'radiator' ) would be a PITA to replace and would require disassembly/assembly of most of the sled.
Patch that sucker... It will cost a fortune in parts and labor to replace the cooler or the tunnel assembly... and who knows, it could happen again in your riding area.... besides the wait time for shipping and labor if you are not doing it yourself... serious down-time mid season now.
Definitely not a warranty repair.
A good patch is a quality solution for sure.
I'd keep a "kit" for those repairs in my trailer or garage in case it happened to me or a buddy. Something simple for the field repairs if it happened.
Sounds to me like these coolers are pretty thin...we all want a lighter sled and the factories found ways to make that happen.
A patch, using Acrylic adhesive above will be STRONGER than a weld or welded-patch.
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Just remember Lord 406 has a shelf life of approx 9 months. I have never tested their products beyond their shelf life but I just wanted to give a heads up if a person bought this and left it in their trailer for long time before using.
Good point on shelf life ... especially if stored in a warm environment or in the sun.
I've kept the 406 in my fridge for more than 3 years and used them without issues so long as they are not open.... Did a pull test on a lap joint with a comealong and the aluminum yielded before the joint.
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I've kept the 406 in my fridge for more than 3 years and used them without issues so long as they are not open.... Did a pull test on a lap joint with a comealong and the aluminum yielded before the joint.
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I can 2nd this product.
Its FREAKING AMAZING.
I didn't say it was one piece but its labor intensive to replace it.
K
I agree, I miss understood your post. I had thought I had read something a ways back on how the tunnel and the cooler were formed as one piece. I was wrong. Yeah it does not look like a cool time to replace. Anything with rivets I like to stay very clear from.
K
So an update at to what the dealer that has the sleds plan is and that is to tig weld it. Now I did not talk to the dealer direct, but i do have a reasonable amount of knowledge on welding and from what they say they have a way of chemically treating the aluminum then filling the cooler with a gas of some nature under pressure so they can get a "pure" weld. Time will tell if that works.
Is there a reason you are averse to patching it?
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J
Right?!?
Patching seems so easy, tig welding paper thin aluminum on the other hand will introduce stress in the aluminum around the weld (when the weld cools it shrinks), and given the thinness of the material there is certainly a chance that you will develop a crack around one side of the weld at some point in the future after the sled has been ridden hard, at least that's what I'd be worried about.
K
To be honest no not at all, its not my sled is the reason. My Cousin is new to the backcountry side of the sport and had a really bad first day. I offered to take care of it all for him that's where the post came from. I myself would do what you had suggested, I come from a mill work background and glue with the proper application is typically stronger than screws.
Any pressure at all will make it near impossible to weld without burning through.
I second the adhesive patch method.
Any chance you'll be able to get a picture of the before and after?
K
I will see what I can get when we get the sled back
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