Secondary Clutch doesn't want to disengage

Frostbite · Mar 2, 2018

I was at the end of nice ride but had to turn around to load my sled. I went up a plowed logging road to find a wide spot in the road to turn around. I couldn't find one and just turned my skis and then backed into the frozen bank behind my sled under a little bit of power.

I noticed that when I got back to my truck that the sled wanted to keep going when I let off the throttle. It's like my secondary isn't letting go of the drive belt. I pulled off the secondary and everything looked fine so, I didn't open it up.

I loaded it to go riding tomorrow and I noticed sometimes it releases the belt and sometimes it still doesn't want to to fully disengage (release the belt). If the secondary spring had spring tabs on it, it feels like one of them would be broken off but, these secondary spring don't have tabs.

I double checked that gap between the belt and the primary and it's at .020 and the primary spins fine with the engine running and it doesn't seem be dragging the belt and moving the sled forward.

Have any of you run into this before?

line8 · Mar 2, 2018

I do when the primary isn’t adjusted right. I do have a 911 cover on it.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

sno*jet · Mar 2, 2018

if it wants to cruise control i would think the primary is not disengaging. the bushing in the primary clutch cover would be my first check.
if it was something in the secondary it would be the deflection adjustment that tightened the belt up on ya some how.

summ8rmk · Mar 2, 2018

Check ur primary rollers. Probably catching the weights keeping clutch engaged.
Thats the only thing ive seen that causes the primary to stick.
Probably need to replace the roller and maybe a weight.

Alpha

......

Nytrous · Mar 2, 2018

Broken spring

spoon · Mar 2, 2018

Secondary bolt backed out tightening deflection?

Frostbite · Mar 2, 2018

A broken secondary spring sounds correct but, I will have to see when I get home. I do have another new H5 secondary spring in my shop. I hope it works OK tomorrow.

killerrf · Mar 3, 2018

The exact same thing happened to my 09m1000 kept wanting to move while at idle... spider in primary was cracked.

Coldfinger · Mar 3, 2018

I agree, if your secondary deflection has adjusted itself so belt is tighter, you would experience this.

I am guessing your primary clutch is sticking. Raise track off ground and apply throttle. Your primary should close and release pretty smoothly and your secondary shoud open and release the same.

On my 2010 m8 my spider was cracked and clutch was sticking closed. Same thing happened on my 95summit but it was a different type of crack on the primary.

Nytrous · Mar 3, 2018

Not secondary.. check your primary spring..

Frostbite · Mar 3, 2018

I figured it out today and I still can't believe it. I have a Thunder Products 911 cover installed on my primary. The first time I had the issue was when I hit the frozen snow bank in reverse and then my sled would not release the belt.

I adjusted the ring on the 911 cover Saturday and all seemed well. Then when I went to load my sled I put it in reverse and turned the handle bars to line up the sled with my loading ramp. The throttle went wide open and I slammed on the brake.

Today I went to start the sled and I couldn't hardly pull it over. Once I got it started it wanted to keep going. Once up in the mountains we stopped the sled and pulled off the side panel. The 911 adjustment ring was in about 6 threads (I had set it with about one thread showing).

I don't know how but, somehow the adjustment ring of the 911 cover tightens when you are in reverse and slam on the brakes.

Weird, has anyone else seen this?

line8 · Mar 4, 2018

I have had all the same symptoms you describe. I think mine is a result of adjustments or poor adjustments on my part. I have had to adjust after a new belt was put on. Then after it broke in a bit i had to adjust again. This was all at the beginning of the season.

But the reverse thing I can’t say I’ve experienced. This has me curious now because yesterday right before I loaded up, I had to reverse a much bigger distance than normal to position myself to load on the ramp. I’ll have to look to see if that ring moved.

The one thing I think about though is maybe the lock nut was loose allowing the ring to move. I have experienced that. I blew a belt in a bad spot. I put the new belt on and then left everything out of adjustment while I moved to a better spot to mess with it. In doing that, the ring did move on me then.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Frostbite · Mar 4, 2018

Nope, the lock screw on the ring was tight both times because I had to loosen it to be able to move the ring. In fact, when the ring was in six threads deep, we had to use a strap wrapped around the ring (like you would start a sled with a broken recoil) to move the ring.

I like the user adjustability of the of the 911 kit but, not the self adjusting part. Strange stuff.

Form what I have seen, in order to see what I am talking about, you would have to be in reverse at a fairly high RPM and then slam on the brakes.

boondocker97 · Mar 4, 2018

Frostbite said:
Nope, the lock screw on the ring was tight both times because I had to loosen it to be able to move the ring. Inf act, when the ring was in six threads deep, we had to use a strap wrapped around the ring (like you would start a sled with a broken recoil) to move the ring.

I like the user adjustability of the of the 911 kit but, not the self adjusting part. Strange stuff.

Form what o have seen, in order to see what i am talking about, you would have to be in reverse at a fairly high RPM and then slam on the brakes.

I think for what you are proposing to have happened, the moveable sheave/spider/outer cover would have had to rotate separately from the fixed sheave. If that's what happened I would be tearing that clutch down and inspecting for the spider coming loose, or if it has a crack that is letting it come loose. If you can even budge the lock nut or spider by hand with a bar and no heat then it needs broken down all the way and reinstalled with fresh Loctite. It's been a lot of years ago, but I have seen a spider pull the threads and strip out before.

Frostbite · Mar 4, 2018

Thanks for the tip Boondocker 97.

I didn't have a clutch grunt tool to hold the primary to break loose the spider and install the 911 clutch cover so I had it done by our local Cat dealer. I wonder if the hard hits in reverse broke the loctite lose?

I have noticed recently that the primary clutch is spinning like its off balance or it actually looks more like my crank is out of specs or bent. You may be on to something!

Vern · Mar 4, 2018

Check the flat sides of the spider real close for cracks. My m7 would crack the spider out there like clockwork roughly every 2k miles. The first time it happened it cracked enough that by the time I got back to the truck the spider and moveable sheave would spin freely on the shaft but the nut was still locked down tight with locktite

tadder52 · Mar 5, 2018

You've got some weird things going on. It's time for a full inspection on that primary. Shims, spider, rollers, torque buttons on the sides, everything. That adjustment shouldn't move like that.

Frostbite · Mar 5, 2018

I agree completely Tadder52!

I was going to pull the primary off yesterday and buy this and swap everything over to the new clutch but, I left it on for now.

What do you guys think about this? I can't believe one can get a new clutch (minus weights, pins and spring) for under $300 shipped to my home.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ARCTIC-CAT...ash=item5b41fc0f31:g:-RMAAOSwBjdaPCOL&vxp=mtr

summ8rmk · Mar 5, 2018

No,
At minimum 2016 clutch.
2018 would be better

Alpha

......

Frostbite · Mar 5, 2018

If I do that, then I need new weights, springs' belt and would probably end up getting a new secondary to match. Then we are talking well over $1,000. However, my sled is a 2015 and I hate to spend too much......and maybe my clutch is OK?

However, there is this one on Ebay too! Would this work?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arctic-Cat...ash=item2139c0f359:g:G34AAOSwMqBaa-BK&vxp=mtr

Would this primary need a different puller (Blue) than I have for my 2015?

Secondary Clutch doesn't want to disengage

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Most handsome

Wrenching to ride is half the fun

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Most handsome

Well-known member

Similar threads