36 vs 42-40 Helix difference

XCaSSAULT · Feb 27, 2018

Trying to dial in my 2015 m8000 clutching for low elevation 0-6000’
and dealer says 75grams and 42-40 is all I need.

I believe 68grams is what I have now and I’m pulling 8,200 rpm at not even half throttle so I feel like 75 would be too light. Thinking 78 or 80?

The 42-40 is $95 so is it worth it? Or will a tighter spring suffice? Currently the driven feels lazy. Or what are other options for replacing the whole driven with something else like a team twin trax? What’s the easiest cheapest way of coming by a different better driven? Like maybe off a different earlier sled? Thanks ??

xfiredude · Feb 27, 2018

Where you located? I have a 42-40 I no longer need. And 75g weights for that matter.

boondocker97 · Feb 27, 2018

Increasing the angle of your helix is going to make you shift to a higher gear ratio faster and load the motor quicker so your RPM might not jump so fast. A stiffer secondary spring is going to try to delay upshifting the secondary and help with backshifting, which is opposite of what the steeper helix will do. I don't have any experience with these at that low of elevation, but how does what your dealer is telling you compare to the clutch setup sticker on your sled or in the manual?

As far as a different secondary clutch, 2012 to 2015 will all fit, but won't be any better than what you have. 2016-2017 secondary will require a different jackshaft setup and it's debatable if the performance is any better. Some guys have liked their secondary machined by Mountain Valley Motorsports in Cody, WY. The other option is going with a Venom (formerly Team) Tied secondary. I just wend the tied route coupled with a 2018 primary and haven't had it on the snow yet to test due to some other life events. There is no cheap secondary swap route. Responses on what secondary is best when I asked: https://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=439657

Adrenalinejunky · Feb 27, 2018

XCaSSAULT said:
Trying to dial in my 2015 m8000 clutching for low elevation 0-6000’
and dealer says 75grams and 42-40 is all I need.

I believe 68grams is what I have now and I’m pulling 8,200 rpm at not even half throttle so I feel like 75 would be too light. Thinking 78 or 80?

The 42-40 is $95 so is it worth it? Or will a tighter spring suffice? Currently the driven feels lazy. Or what are other options for replacing the whole driven with something else like a team twin trax? What’s the easiest cheapest way of coming by a different better driven? Like maybe off a different earlier sled? Thanks

Is it all stock motorwise? Stock 15 sealevel clutching needs a stiffer primary spring to upp the engagement.
Quite a difference between 42-40 and a 36.

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XCaSSAULT · Feb 27, 2018

xfiredude said:
Where you located? I have a 42-40 I no longer need. And 75g weights for that matter.

Like 30min north of twin cities. PM me and let me know if I can get that stuff from ya?

Otherwise All stock except bikeman can.

What color primary should I go with?

XCaSSAULT · Mar 11, 2018

Took my primary cover off and found a broken spring, and 63 weights. Put the 75’s weights in and a new yellow white spring and r’s are topping out were they should (8,200ish) but the sled feels like it’s asleep until u drop the hammer and get above 7,500. So I put the 42-40 helix in and that helped a lot, feels strong after 6,500, but it’s still not what I’m use to coming from poo clutches.

What to do now?

I want this thing to rip all the way through the r’s

Anyone have experience dialing these in for low elevation?
Should I try a softer secondary spring? 44-40?
Are the torsional helix options worth a try?

I don’t care about speed so I wouldn’t think a gear change is needed. I just want powerband that’s from engagement to max rpms

boondocker97 · Mar 11, 2018

If you still have the 19/50 gearing at least change to 20/50. Gearing these up does help with bottom-mid range pull. MDS weights grab hard down low too. Engagement is a little harsh though.

richardderkevorkian · Mar 13, 2018

XCaSSAULT said:
Took my primary cover off and found a broken spring, and 63 weights. Put the 75’s weights in and a new yellow white spring and r’s are topping out were they should (8,200ish) but the sled feels like it’s asleep until u drop the hammer and get above 7,500. So I put the 42-40 helix in and that helped a lot, feels strong after 6,500, but it’s still not what I’m use to coming from poo clutches.

What to do now?

I want this thing to rip all the way through the r’s

Anyone have experience dialing these in for low elevation?
Should I try a softer secondary spring? 44-40?
Are the torsional helix options worth a try?

I don’t care about speed so I wouldn’t think a gear change is needed. I just want powerband that’s from engagement to max rpms

The 75s are to heavy from my experience. If you have access to a gram scale and a bench grinder shave them down to 73s taking the weight off the tip. The stock cat black spring is way to stiff in the secondary as well. If you do any off trail riding the 42 helix is to steep it doesn't backshift well and will hunt. I'd put the 36 back in with a purple h5 secondary spring from speedwerx. What primary spring are you running? Going from 63s to 75s requires a stiffer initial on your primary spring or it will lower the engagement and feel sluggish

mwide40 · Mar 13, 2018

My brother has a stock 2015 M8000 and we ride low elevation in the Up of Michigan. All he did was buy the cat low elevation kit and the sled rips!

XCaSSAULT · Mar 13, 2018

richardderkevorkian said:
The 75s are to heavy from my experience. If you have access to a gram scale and a bench grinder shave them down to 73s taking the weight off the tip. The stock cat orange spring is way to stiff in the secondary as well. If you do any off trail riding the 42 helix is to steep it doesn't backshift well and will hunt. I'd put the 36 back in with a purple h5 secondary spring from speedwerx. What primary spring are you running? Going from 63s to 75s requires a stiffer initial on your primary spring or it will lower the engagement and feel sluggish

I did scale the 75 weights and they were 74.49, 74.68 and 75.02. Now they’re all 74.49 and while I haven’t had it on a trail yet, just ditch bangń I’ve seen 8,400 flash a time or two. So my impression so far is it could use a little more weight. That is with stock yellow/white primary spring in. Secondary spring is black/blue which I assume is stock also.

I ran it with the 36 helix in and was not happy (to be fair I only tried it for about 20miles of ditch bangń). The 42-40 felt like a significant improvement but not enough. I was even thinking of trying a 44-40 but I don’t think it will satisfy niether.

Right now my thoughts are trying 21-49 gearing and spi’s low altitude
clutch kit that comes with there torsion spring/helix. Anyone have experience with this setup U.P. type boondockń? It’s fairly costly so feedback would be appreciated. Thanks

richardderkevorkian · Mar 13, 2018

XCaSSAULT said:
I did scale the 75 weights and they were 74.49, 74.68 and 75.02. Now they’re all 74.49 and while I haven’t had it on a trail yet, just ditch bangń I’ve seen 8,400 flash a time or two. So my impression so far is it could use a little more weight. That is with stock yellow/white primary spring in. Secondary spring is black/blue which I assume is stock also.

I ran it with the 36 helix in and was not happy (to be fair I only tried it for about 20miles of ditch bangń). The 42-40 felt like a significant improvement but not enough. I was even thinking of trying a 44-40 but I don’t think it will satisfy niether.

Right now my thoughts are trying 21-49 gearing and spi’s low altitude
clutch kit that comes with there torsion spring/helix. Anyone have experience with this setup U.P. type boondockń? It’s fairly costly so feedback would be appreciated. Thanks

the stock spring is really stiff which slows your up shift with the 36° if you went with a softer finish rate spring you would lower your overall rpm and up shift faster.

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36 vs 42-40 Helix difference

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