Time to start making the Summer Mod List for my Yamaha Nytro SE.

christopher · Mar 19, 2010

Considering that here in East Idaho, the Island Park/West Yellowstone Snow/Avalanche Center announced they will be making no further updates to the website for the season, my season is pretty well OVER with now.

So.

Time to start mapping out when will get worked on over the next 6 months for my 2010 Nytro SE.

The only thing I have decided is that I am not going to install a Turbo on it. I may do that in the future, but for now I didn't see a compelling need for it in any of the riding I was doing this winter, at least not enough so to justify the cost.

So I am ready to start building up a list of parts to obtain and mods to make over the summer.

Done so far.

1. OFT Steering relocator Kit.
2. Jacobson Roll-Over valve kit
3. Roest Skid Plate

Otherwise the sled is bone stock.

My thoughts are...

New boards
Under tunnel exhaust
New Seat
New Skies
Relocate the gauge cluster
Hand protectors
Rear Tunnel stiffener and bag mount

WHAT ELSE SHOULD I BE THINKING OF???

throttlecable · Mar 19, 2010

Power commander fuel controller? Supposedly SLP has one mapped for stock non turbo applications that is supposed to increase throttle response and help on the top end. Also there are some cool aftermarket vent kits available to shed some under hood heat, and they look pretty trick as well!

justinkredible56 · Mar 20, 2010

I don't know if Rexburg Motorsports did anything on your clutching but i've heard that's a big/relatively cheap upgrade.

Thistledoo · Mar 20, 2010

what happened to the MCX 180 kit?

christopher · Mar 20, 2010

throttlecable said:
Power commander fuel controller? Supposedly SLP has one mapped for stock non turbo applications that is supposed to increase throttle response and help on the top end. Also there are some cool aftermarket vent kits available to shed some under hood heat, and they look pretty trick as well!

This what your thinking of?
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=5&catID=76&productID=1379

christopher · Mar 20, 2010

justinkredible56 said:
I don't know if Rexburg Motorsports did anything on your clutching but i've heard that's a big/relatively cheap upgrade.

Bone Stock still.
I can't imagine making the clutching hook up / lock up BETTER.??

What I would like is to have the engine braking reduced a bit.
When your flying and let off the go button, the deceleration can toss you over the front end of the sled. But the bottom end acceleration is nothing short of great.

christopher · Mar 20, 2010

Thistledoo said:
what happened to the MCX 180 kit?

It's still a maybe.
But I just didn't find the sled lacking for power this winter?

And the cost is not insignificant to be perfectly honest.

justinkredible56 · Mar 21, 2010

http://www.ulmerracing.com/fxnytro.htm
Check out the dyno sheet on there. Im guessing they are measuring it from either the chaincase side jackshaft or maybe from the track but that's pretty impressive to say the least. I have no experience with the kit but I put it on my "summer mod" list....now I just have to buy a nytro!!! :face-icon-small-hap haha

motojunkie101 · Mar 21, 2010

My list would read something like:

Vent kit (pick your favorite vendor)
supertips
shockwave helix
avid drivers
A/F gauge
Boost gauge
Boost kit of the 10-17lbs variation (one you can adjust as you need/want the juice)

IMHO it isn't worth it to get the 180 kit. The cost isn't worth the HP when you consider the price compared to a full on turbo and the HP numbers you can get out of it. For a little more you can get a kit that will run just a tad more boost (kit minimum) than the 180 kit, and have the ability to go up to 17lbs of boost (or more depending on if you do engine work). For me it is worth it to have the adjustability for when you want to tail walk up a hill, or on the days when the powder is just stupid deep.

If Boost is on the back burner...then lighten her up!

7S battery
front A-arms
Vent kit
rear skid

My lightweight savings with the battery, skid, and A-arms is 56 pounds...and yes you can feel it!

christopher · Mar 22, 2010

justinkredible56 said:
http://www.ulmerracing.com/fxnytro.htm
Check out the dyno sheet on there. Im guessing they are measuring it from either the chaincase side jackshaft or maybe from the track but that's pretty impressive to say the least. I have no experience with the kit but I put it on my "summer mod" list....now I just have to buy a nytro!!! :face-icon-small-hap haha

***Image shown is for illustration purposes only, product may differ from image shown***
FX Nytro Stage 1:

Super Tip Weights(Setup to your rider weight, track height, and riding style)
Primary Spring
Secondary Spring
Custom Cut Helix
$390 plus shipping

christopher · Mar 22, 2010

motojunkie101 said:
My list would read something like:

Vent kit (pick your favorite vendor)
supertips ??
shockwave helix ??
avid drivers ??

If Boost is on the back burner...then lighten her up!

7S battery
front A-arms
Vent kit
rear skid

My lightweight savings with the battery, skid, and A-arms is 56 pounds...and yes you can feel it!

Wow.
That is significant weight savings!

Who/What are the
supertips ??
shockwave helix ??
avid drivers ??

motojunkie101 · Mar 22, 2010

The supertips are weights you put in your primary clutch (front one) that you use to control the RPM that your sled comes in at, and also control how high your sled will rev at full throttle. They are easy to adjust (as far as weights go) and have a very wide range of adjustments by adding or subtracting weight from them.

The Shockwave Helix provides more adjustment on your Secondary (rear) clutch. It is more of a quick adjustment for a couple hundred RPMs up and down. The best example is if you go up in elevation your sled wont pull all the RPMs it should, so you can dial it back in with the shockwave on the hill.

Big adjustments should come on the primary clutch, and small ones from the secondary with this setup. (at least that is how I run mine)

The Avid drivers (drive wheels at the front of the track) are anti-ratchet just like the stock Nytro drivers are, but they are tougher and will last longer than the stock drivers under boost. Most guys swap the stock ones when they go boost because that much power will spin the shaft inside the drivers.

my weight savings has been with the Timbersled stuff...rides like a caddy and has taken a lot of abuse. The only problem was a broken limiter strap, but that was my fault for running it too loose.

christopher · Mar 22, 2010

Thanks for the education.
There is still much for me to learn yet.

Since I am NOT going to go the boosted route this year, is it really worth the time and effort to make the changes to the clutch?

snocattin · Mar 22, 2010

Ah Christopher, young grasshopper......

The less horsepower you have the more important it is to have dead nutz clutching, very cheap performance gains...!!

It's like riding a 125cc two stroke motocrosser, if you're not in the right gear, you're getting passed. But when you are in the power band, look out.

My buddy put the power commander on his stock Nytro and ended up adding 4 grams to his flyweights to control the new found revs. Might be worth it. Has anyone else added one..??

Make sure you vent the clutch panels very well. Makes a huge difference on belt life. When mine was stock, I blew a belt at 600 miles because of heat (tight tree riding). This year with 14 lbs of boost, I have right at 1,000 miles and my belt (actually last year's belt) is still looking great, it never gets hot.

LG

philsummers21 · Mar 22, 2010

Depends on how much your wanting to spend. But the first mod should be a new track. CE or Powerclaw. single best mod you can do besides boost.

Walden · Mar 23, 2010

clutching

I know this extends Christopher's thread that wasn't really about clutching, but as I think I at the same learning curve as he is this triggered a post. I want more education on the clutching conversation. I'm a flatlander with an XTX and go west as much as I can. I was just out riding in Northern Idaho and also the west yellowstone area. 5k to 10k elevation. The higher elevation was an unexpected stop over and I expected to "feel" a lot of difference because I hadn't set up my clutch for that elevation. Now, granted I wasn't really riding as hard as I could, but I didn't really notice a difference. I get the concept of the clutching, but....

My delima is on the few trips I get out there I like to be able to go where the snow is and don't want to own every elevation clutch set up there is and always be screwing with it as opposed to riding it. Are the shockwave helix and supertips a means of having a lot of adjustment in the field with little down time? Are there other options like this out there? Educate me please!!

motojunkie101 · Mar 23, 2010

philsummers21 said:
Depends on how much your wanting to spend. But the first mod should be a new track. CE or Powerclaw. single best mod you can do besides boost.

This is a fact! A new track will make a huge difference in the fluffy stuff!

Walden - Honestly if you only ride once or twice a year at elevation then I wouldn't even worry about it. The supertips aren't a quick change for adjustments, they are just an easy way to adjust the weights when you have the primary clutch apart. The shockwave is built for quick adjustments when you ride. You loosen an allen screw, and turn the helix in or out, tighten allen screw and ride away. Quick and easy to adjust, but you shouldn't do all of your adjustments with the shockwave. From what I've read it seems like it is best used for fine tuning to get your RPMs spot on.

pylon · Mar 24, 2010

a new track is a must for these units ! almost any track is an upgrade from the mavrick that comes stock. The 162 x16x2.5 is the best but a camo or powder claw off a cat is a cheep upgrade as well . When moving up to a 16 inch wide track you need to change drop brackets as well. i think there around 150 $ and shed 8 pounds . also some bolt grinding inside the tunnel is needed to fit the 16 inch track . also id look at a performance package from some one (clutching power commander pipe and air box ) . that way every thing works together

christopher · Mar 24, 2010

snocattin said:
Ah Christopher, young grasshopper......

True enough. I am still at the bottom end of the learning curve on my new Yamahas. My current skill level is still "The sled can outride the rider".:face-icon-small-hap

snocattin said:
The less horsepower you have the more important it is to have dead nutz clutching, very cheap performance gains...!!

My buddy put the power commander on his stock Nytro and ended up adding 4 grams to his flyweights to control the new found revs. Might be worth it. Has anyone else added one..??

Hmmm.

snocattin said:
Make sure you vent the clutch panels very well. Makes a huge difference on belt life. When mine was stock, I blew a belt at 600 miles because of heat (tight tree riding). This year with 14 lbs of boost, I have right at 1,000 miles and my belt (actually last year's belt) is still looking great, it never gets hot.

LG

Venting hasn't even been in my thoughts as yet. Didn't see any need for it at all thus far.

christopher · Mar 24, 2010

philsummers21 said:
Depends on how much your wanting to spend. But the first mod should be a new track. CE or Powerclaw. single best mod you can do besides boost.

Really?
You think a new track would make THAT big of a difference against the track that came with the 2010 SE ???

Time to start making the Summer Mod List for my Yamaha Nytro SE.

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