09-10 Dragons with the Pro-Tapers

diamonddave

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• May 10, 2010

• #1

Another thing to watch out for...The factory wire ties that hold the hand grip heater wiring to the bars is wearing through the black protective coating causing the wires to short out to the bars. The wire ties are way too tight.

Another area of concern I noticed while dealing with this problem is the insane amount of corrossion in the electrical connectors for the hot grips from the main wiring harness.

The pics were hard to get good but it will give you an idea of what is happening.

And then they wonder why there's blown ECM's...Fuses are necesaary, Hello???

 

mountainhorse

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• May 10, 2010

• #2

Dave... Great thread. Great pix that I appreciate seeing!!

This is typical of wiring in many of the Polaris sleds...

Also people who are cutting off zip-ties to fix something and then replacing them need to be careful not to over-tighten them. (snug... not tight)

IMO... it is a good idea to check over the ENTIRE wiring harness on the sled, pull covers, consoles, pipes, airboxes etc and make sure things are routed correctly, and not chaffing thru as shown in Daves pics... add chafe protection as needed and don't tighten the zip ties too much as this can break the wire inside of the insulation and you won't even know that it is broken.

Dave makes a great point... an inline fuse on the grip heaters would be a great idea to add on to the system... if your throttle or the brake gets rotated from a crash or rollover (especially on the non dragons/PRO's) or the bars get twisted up.. the grip heaters WILL short out. Same goes for some of the other circuits in a crash... there really are no fuses on the sled... Bummer.

 

Last edited: May 11, 2010

mountainhorse

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• May 10, 2010

• #3

Dave brings up a good point about corrosion ... especially for sleds on open trailers (even covered).

Dielectric grease should be part of the pre-delivery program from the factory/dealer... but it isn't...
In all the connectors, especially non-sealed ones like the grip heaters, those should get a good dose of the grease to keep corrosion to a minimum.

 

rmkboxer

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• May 11, 2010

• #4

mountainhorse said:

Dave brings up a good point about corrosion ... especially for sleds on open trailers (even covered).

Dielectric grease should be part of the pre-delivery program from the factory/dealer... but it isn't...
In all the connectors, especially non-sealed ones like the grip heaters, those should get a good dose of the grease to keep corrosion to a minimum.

Click to expand...

I was putting dielectric grease on mine when I found the harness rubbed through from the plastic cover over the electronics. I have to look at my grips I have one that gets hot and the other barely gets warm

 

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beefspots

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• May 20, 2010

• #5

rmk let me know if you figure out why one heater is hot and the other is warm....................i have replaced mine and its still the same one hot the other is warm.

 

rmkboxer

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• May 20, 2010

• #6

beefspots said:

rmk let me know if you figure out why one heater is hot and the other is warm....................i have replaced mine and its still the same one hot the other is warm.

Click to expand...

if I remember, put all the sleds in the trailer to get them out of the way before my back surgery should be sometime this summer

 

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volcano buster

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• May 23, 2010

• #7

grip heater fuse

What amperage fuse would need to be installed inline to protect the wire harness? Not sure what the amp draw is on high heat.

 

mountainhorse

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• Jan 29, 2012

• #8

Bump!!




.

 

diamonddave

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• Apr 13, 2014

• #9

TTT for owners of 2009-2010 IQ-RAW RMK's

 

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gijoe

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• Apr 14, 2014

• #10

Dave makes a great point... an inline fuse on the grip heaters would be a great idea to add on to the system... if your throttle or the brake gets rotated from a crash or rollover (especially on the non dragons/PRO's) or the bars get twisted up.. the grip heaters WILL short out. Same goes for some of the other circuits in a crash... there really are no fuses on the sled... Bummer.[/QUOTE]

Great info. What size fuses should we put in there?