TECH TIPS 600/700/800 CFI's Free Mods & Best Bang for the Buck

TECH TIPS


BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS

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Get the Autotune for an additional $250.00 or you can add that at a later date.


ALMOST FREE MODS

PRIMARY CLUTCH

1) Check your primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" with a BRAND NEW BELT, mine & my bud's were .070" from the factory. Increases acceleration and reduces the slamming effect onto the crank.

2) Send your clutch out for balancing, (Preferably after the above step has been completed) noticeably smoother running and extends crank life. SLP ($35.00) and others here on SnoWest can perform this service.

3) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of EVERY season.


SECONDARY

1) Install only ONE DELRIN washer under the spring cup (less than $5.00)

2) Install a new spring @ the start of every season


BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY

1) Align your clutches (center to center 11.5" EXACTLY, and check for engine crooked, pictures posted in the "link" below as to how the the alignment tool SHOULD contact the front and rear of the secondary) Check this using the SLP or TEAM tool, as the Genuine Gold Plated POLARIS tool has approx .070" of built-in "kick" which is NOT what you want. Check your alignment tool bar for "straightness" with a 3' or so carpenter's level, drywall "T" square, etc., and vernier calipers. mountainhorse reported (2) defective SLP tools. Just because it's NEW doesn't mean it's PERFECT!


A) WITH SLP PUSH LIMITER: 0 to .020" air gap @ the rear of the secondary, (with the front of the secondary touching the alignment bar)


B) WITHOUT SLP push limiter: .020" to .040" of air gap @ the rear of the secondary (with the front of the secondary touching the alignment bar)

You may have to slot the engine bracket(s) to get it PERFECT. On mine and my bud's 07 D7 we had to slot the Mag side engine bracket almost 3/8" to straighten things out. A picture of the Mag side engine bracket is in the link below, do this step ONLY if neccesary! Double check your c/c measurements after you get the engine "straight" and then slot BOTH engine brackets an EQUAL amount (if necceasry) to obtain the 11.5" center to center EXACTLY.


2) Check and adjust the offset after the above has been completed. This is E-Z to do, just adjust shims on the secondary shaft until the secondary touches the alignment bar. You want approx .030" of free play as well.

3) Lightly sand both the primary and secondary clutches with 180 grit sandpaper perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down with lacquer thinner. Mark the primary with a fat black marker, make a few full throttle runs, and see where your belt rides up to on the clutch.


4) Wash/scrub (plastic bristle brush) your BRAND NEW belt w/soap & hot water, and let dry overnight, sounds weird but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.


T.P.S. CHECKING & RE-SETTING PROCEDURE (Don't overlook this, easier than you think, don't just trust the dealer to "check" this with their digital wrench)
1) Build a tester for $10.00 with parts from Radio Shack, look @ the "INCREASING YOUR IQ" thread @ the top of the IQ forum, all the info is there. Then go to the 900 Section, there's a neat video that walks you through the process. Thanks to mountainhorse and the full monte for providing that info.

2) When setting the T.P.S. on C.F.I.'s, the throttle valves MUST BE FULLY CLOSED, then set it @ .70 volts +/-.01 volts for the 600/700/800

3) After that, turn the idle speed screw until the voltmeter reads .94 - .95 volts +/- .01 but this varies with model.

4) Using an analog style volt meter, gradually open and close the throttle and watch the voltmeter move gradually, erratic readings indicate a faulty T.P.S.


OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, CHAIN TENSION, TRACK TENSION, ENGINE LIMITER, OTHER PERFORMANCE TIPS

1) Check your oil pump calibration, mine was 38:1 stock, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns on the 10mm adjuster nuts and it's 57:1 now for the last 1200 miles. Oil pump marks are suppose to align @ the 3:00 position as a starting point. Red dot on the case has a short (1/4" long) horizontal mark on it as does the oil pump arm, these are suppose to line up @ idle AS A STARTING POINT, and fine tune from there until you achieve the desired 55:1- 60:1 gas/oil ratio. Picture of the oil pump posted below.


2) Check your chain case tension, adjust it to where the chain almost touches the back of the case with finger pressure. While you're in the chain case, place a metal straight edge across the sprockets to make sure they're EXACTLY in line. Shim with 1" I.D. "Automotive valve spring shims" available from auto cylinder head rebuilding shops, Summit Racing, etc. Same shims also work on the secondary shaft for getting the offset "dialed in".

3) Run your track looser that POLARIS specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.

4) Install the SLP push arm engine limiter on the MAG side, approx 20 minute installation, only 2 holes to drill, SLP Part # 23-63, $42.95 Picture posted below.

5) Check Ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred

6) Place a small piece of duct tape over your headlight adjuster knob, prevents water, snow, and ice from being ingested into your engine.

7) Remove your air box and wipe down the seam area with lacquer thinner and duct tape the seam, prevents Kevlar dust particles from being ingested into your engine.

8) Plug the exhaust purge hoses coming off the exhaust valves, this makes it like the 2001-2004 set-ups and definitely improves acceleration by allowing the exhaust valves to open sooner. An added benefit is the hot exhaust that was "held back" in the engine is released sooner, thereby effectively reducing internal engine temps.

9) Install a simple 1/4" shut off (available @ hardware stores) onto the P.T.O. side cylinder head, where the coolant line heats up the throttle bodies, this comes stock on 2007 Ski-Doo 800 and other models

10) Clean your exhaust valves and bores, they're dirtier & gummier than you realize. While you're there check the bellows for small rips and tears.


DEBATEABLE

SLP Big Air Kit and (4) Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + 4 X $19.95+ $122.00) E-Z to install, I just didn't notice any difference, that's all.


WASTE OF $$$$$$$$$$ I.M.O.

V-FORCE reeds, Maybe ever so slightly more responsive on it's best day, definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and a lot of installation time. Many riders have reported durability issues, as in after only one season. One more reason to not buy 'em.


Hope this helps, have a GREAT season!!!!!!

MOWER800 said:

what is the benafits of the pc v on a stock D8 with a slp pipe & can

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In warm weather testing (50*) there was no benefit to leaning down the SLP set-up. (as the pipe leans out the already rich running set-up) AS THE STOCK e.c.u. RICHENS UP CONSIDERABLY BELOW 30*

So that may change with colder weather testing.

PC-5 on a stock pipe was good for approx 6-7 h.p. if I remember correctly.

PC-5 with a stock pipe was almost same as SLP piped with can and no PC-5

MOWER800 said:

so no real inprovment adding it to my sled or just not known yet because of outside temps because I ride at 8 to 12000 and its usually below 35 on most of the warmer days

thanks for you help

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Might I suggest to see what the outcome is of the next dyno session, should be real soon, waiting on colder weather.

t!m250 said:

All good information.

My question is: How can stuff like the primary cluch cleances and oil pump
calibration be off on a brand new sled???

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Becuase these sleds like everything else are mass produced where time is an issue, and they're rushing to "get it out the door" and should they be "corrected" at the dealer and is it on their checklist, probably.

Rather than argue with the dealer (as I started to when I found my engine was "crooked) and have them say, "Well, it's running and not really causing any problems, so it isn't covered under warranty") I'll take the time and do it right myself.

I've had (2) guys that don't know one another and both informed me that the rear suspension frong swing-arm is off by 3/8" thereby kicking the rails off to one side. Now I haven't checked mine yet, but just another example of new stuff that isn't right, and we can't blame the dealer for that one.

Polar Express,

All excellent questions, and agreed on "why" as well,

1) The colder intake charge should make more power (denser fuel charge) This shut-off comes standard on all 2007 Ski-Doo 800's (and other models) with their advice in the owner's manual of turning it on only in dusty snowy conditions.

When I asked Casey (Team Bayport Racing ) about dynoing this mod by just clamping off the rubber coolant hose with vise grips while on the dyno, he said he would, and even more interestingly he admitted that he already did it
to his sled (But didn't want to advertise that, lol) Hopefully the dyno tests will occur soon, just waiting on colder weather.

No detrimental effects on cooling as after the throttle bodies it just dumps the coolant into the overflow tank. If anything, it would cool the cylinder head more, albeit by a miniscule amount.

I'm also interested to see if the colder air intake charge alters the A/F mixture (possibly requiring more fuel) and hopefully we'll have that answer soon with the next dyno test.

2) I've always personally found a noticeable performance gain with a fresh spring in the primary @ the beginning of the season. My buddy owns a cylinder head rebuilding shop and we used his valve spring tester on new and old springs and found a measureable difference after the spring was used for only 1 season. As an alternative to purchasing a spring each and every season, Sometimes we would pull the cover off the primary and let the primary sit in the fully extended position during summer storage.

The loss on a secondary was not as significant as the primary spring, but figured there had to be some "loss" so I started to change them out every season.

3) I've read that also about excessive amount of "float " on the secondary shaft, I just don't agree with it, leaves WAY TOO MUCH opportunity for the belt to get out of line. Heard the arguments of "well the belt will pull it into lline" don't believe it.

I still prefer and recommend approx .030" of float, I can't see any benefit to going much beyond that.

When I found my 2007 D7 and my bud's D7 to be so far off from the factory and the dealer saying "uh, well it's not really breaking belts or anything, so it's not an issue". After that and straightening mine out, and experiencing the performance difference, it's well woth doing.


Hope this helps,



It's interesting since I started the Tech Tips here and on H.C.S. several members have P.M.'d me with things they've found "wrong" with their "new" sleds, example is the swing arm/cross shaft posted a couple of posts above.

I feel there's a significant amount of performance to be gained from "correcting" these issues before going on to pipes, reeds, etc,

Polar Express said:

Kraven,

Thanks for taking the time to post these suggestions. I will be strongly considering many of them.

I did a few mods to my 09 D8, and posted a thread with the pics and some comments for each 'mod'. I'm a big "why" guy, I most always want to know why a mod is recommended. This helps me decide if I want to do that change, or if it wouldn't apply to my situation.

So, I'll go ahead and ask:

1)what is the benefit of the coolant shut-off? Does the heat in the throttle bodies have that much effect on the incoming air temp? Will it have any detrimental effects on my cooling system?

2) Since you recommend replacing the springs each season, I'm going to assume that's because you have found their spring rate changes with use and/or time?

3) I've heard to allow for as much as .250" 'float' on the secondary. It seems to me that more float = larger window of function. Is there a downside to allowing more secondary float?


I can see the writing on the wall, that I might be buying a clutch alignment tool in the near future.

Thanks,
PE

Click to expand...

beeler said:

What is the best way to plug the exhaust valve lines. Why do they even put them on from the factory if they hurt performance ? I have 2007 660 RMK

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Beeler,

Emmissions is the reason for the purge line and solenoid. That delays the opening of the exhaust valves.

Easiest way to plug 'em is to remove the "T" and replace it with a 5/16" bolt 2" long w/head cut off, clamp in place, done. Wrap/wire tie the leftover hose leading to the solenoid, as the opposite end vents to the atmosphere into the front hood area.

Do NOT disconnect the wires leading to the solenoid, that will create an error message to pop up.

Always E-Z to return to emmissions compliant if need be, trade in, resale, etc.

normanlavoie said:

have a question on the delrin washer you say under the spring cup so it is not in contact with the spring?or does go in spring cup under the spring

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Norman,

Correct on the bold and underlined.

It does NOT contact the spring. It does NOT go IN the spring cup.

It contacts the metal spring cup and the aluminum

Hope this helps