Bit the bullet...TCL stage 3

dopey333 · Dec 23, 2014

Well I just got my sled back with the tcl stage 3 delete kit done.
My sled was quite the belt eater just about every ride I blew one, dealer says my engine was out of alignment in 3 different ways so im not surprised.
So here the question iv been riding a little cautious with the sled can I be pretty confident in riding the sled the way I want, aka big wheelies full throttle climbs boondocking etc?
From my understanding it is the fix so I did it just want to know I made the right choice, so I can trust the sled in a big hill climb without blowing a belt halfway up.

Cheers

0neoldfart · Dec 23, 2014

IMHO

dopey333 said:
Well I just got my sled back with the tcl stage 3 delete kit done.
My sled was quite the belt eater just about every ride I blew one, dealer says my engine was out of alignment in 3 different ways so im not surprised.
So here the question iv been riding a little cautious with the sled can I be pretty confident in riding the sled the way I want, aka big wheelies full throttle climbs boondocking etc?
From my understanding it is the fix so I did it just want to know I made the right choice, so I can trust the sled in a big hill climb without blowing a belt halfway up.

Cheers

I have EVO's stage 3 TCL delete along with some clutching and venting, powered by a V-map Big Chute Turbo (I installed all of it myself, so I know it's right). Running at the 285 hp setting I've never blown a belt, or even pulled a cord for that matter. I wouldn't be afraid to ride it like it was stolen.

dopey333 · Dec 23, 2014

I had also read on evo's site that they recommend head studs for anything above 220 hp is that true or no? is it really necessary?

0neoldfart · Dec 23, 2014

it's your engine...

As a licensed mechanic, I can tell you that studs are the fastener of choice in any high performance application. Considering that the 1100T doesn't use many (I seem to recall there is eight fasteners), I would use studs rather then risk a head gasket failure in the backcountry. Other vendors will suggest otherwise, but considering EVO is a major player in high performance supercar builds, I'd take their advice... especially when adding horsepower. From my experience, if it doesn't work, they don't sell it. Pretty sure they've toasted a few 1100T's on the dyno when they were building tunes and turbo kits, and thus far anything they've released to the public has been pretty much plug and play - no tuning required. Personally, I would do studs on any reflash just for peace of mind.

JustBoostIt · Dec 23, 2014

We recommend studs on anything over the 93 octane flash, which is 215ish. Can't put a price on piece of mind, when things go bad on a 4s it's pricey.

As far as your confidence with the tcl delete.... it takes some time. This is normal, people are very hard to convince when they have had such bad luck with belts. Trust what you feel and let the sled win you back over. If everything is correct it will.

tyco72 · Dec 24, 2014

Ride it like a rented mule. What's the point that of doing the delete if you didn't think it would work...

Depending on the shop and how much you trust there work I would simply check the alignment and verify it myself. Buy OSP's alignment tool. Good tool to have.

dopey333 · Dec 24, 2014

its not that I didn't think it would work just got to regain confidence in the sled.

Also are the head stud an easy install im assuming you go in from behind the seat and tank and do it from there? any pointers?

RACINSTATION · Dec 24, 2014

Head studs aren't bad. You have to pull the seat, tank, console, pull the steering support assembly, throttle bodies and wiring harness out of your way to get to the head and then do the job.

TURBIE · Dec 26, 2014

dopey333 you will love your sled again I have had many sleds come by the shop that were belt blowers and now with the TCL the problems have disappeared and they are getting awesome belt life with big HP and stock.
Stage 3 is the best way along with a OSP engine snubber a manual chain tensioner and HYVO gears, this setup rocks and is what I recommend to all my customers.

bwiesz85 · Dec 27, 2014

What are the benefits through stages 1,2,and 3? big price jump from stage 2 to stage 3?

TURBIE · Dec 27, 2014

The stages are mostly due to some guys have some things done and others it is more a build as they can afford it. Stage 3 the price jump is because of the jackshaft that is in the kit.

JustBoostIt · Dec 27, 2014

I've never had anyone do a stage 1, but some add the adjustable mounts and don't do the engine brackets. On 12's brackets are a must with the smallest mounting tabs. The '13 and up are bigger and less critical but we still recommend doing them as you have it all torn down to that stage anyway.....and especially if you are doing the labour yourself and just have to buy the part. Anyone going over 225hp we recommend doing the JS and mag bearing as the extra power will put more stress on the remaining stock parts.

dopey333 · Jan 1, 2015

Well guys after all that I ran into a new problem about 15 miles into my ride the bolt behind the secondary clutch (the larger allen key one) seemed to have backed out.

Was able to get it back it but once I returned home I decided to check on all of them. (keep in mind my dealer installed all of the parts) after pulling it out again I decided to put some lock tight on it to ensure it wouldn't happen again, but upon putting the bolt back in I realized there were no threads left iside the bolt hole.

So heres y question is it broken or is there supposed to be a nut o the back of that bolt?Again that's the one behind the secondary clutch.

shadow conspiracy · Jan 2, 2015

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Bit the bullet...TCL stage 3

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