• Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Pro Rebuild

S

seth25

Well-known member
Jan 9, 2008
1,187
192
63
Sedalia, CO
I recently purchased a 2011 Pro RMK 155 with a damaged tunnel/bulkhead and am in the process of rebuilding it. I have a new tunnel/bulkhead on order, should be here next week. I have the sled completely torn down waiting on the tunnel and have gone through all the parts to make sure nothing is broken/missing, etc. I have a set of skinz airframe running boards on order, should be here next week, and I am planning on installing them first, before starting the rebuild.

I am wondering if there is anything that I need to change/modify, pay extra attention to, etc. when doing the rebuild? I am keeping the sled stock, no powder coating, engine mods, etc. I know that I need to pay extra attention to the wiring harness and I plan on adding extra protection to keep the wires from rubbing through in certain areas. I also know about the air bubble problem in the oil line and I plan on spending extra time to bleed the lines to keep any air bubbles from popping up.

I have a service manual coming that will help out with torque specs. Is there anything special about the rivets that are used to hold on the tail light, foot wells, etc? Will a plain old aluminum rivet be appropriate in those areas? What about locktight? Should I go back with the blue locktight that Polaris used on many of the bolts, or is there a better alternative?

Thanks
 
S

seth25

Well-known member
Jan 9, 2008
1,187
192
63
Sedalia, CO
Here is my pile of parts. Tunnel bent at footwells on both sides.

Also, I have heard about problems with an air bubble in the supply line to the oil pump, but I have never heard of an air bubble between the oil pump and case. There is a small bubble between the pump and case.

DSCN3781.jpg DSCN3782.jpg DSCN3784.jpg DSCN3785.jpg DSCN3783.jpg
 

richracer1

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Feb 2, 2011
3,626
2,480
113
Idaho Falls, ID
S

seth25

Well-known member
Jan 9, 2008
1,187
192
63
Sedalia, CO
Are those the same rivets that the Pro uses? I have the large, black head rivets for the plastic body pieces.

I have a service manual coming, which will probably answer these questions, but what about:

Type of brake fluid?
Type of gear case oil?

Thanks
 

Rick!

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
793
335
63
Are those the same rivets that the Pro uses? I have the large, black head rivets for the plastic body pieces.

I have a service manual coming, which will probably answer these questions, but what about:

Type of brake fluid?
Type of gear case oil?

Thanks

When you get your manual, almost all of your questions will be answered. Poo changed brake fluid a few years ago to DOT 4. The chaincase fluid is some nasty purple stuff from the ATV side. I just use synthetic trans fluid and change twice a year to remove sprocket wear fuzz.

The rivets should be listed in the manual. Aluminum and aluminum mandrel rivets are not good for structural stuff - stick with steel rivets with steel mandrels.

Do you have pix of the two front castings? I like the diamond plate bulkhead floor. If the front castings are good, you could get by with a tunnel and the two side castings and save a few bux.

The plastic doesn't look too bad for a hard frontal hit. What took the brunt of the impact?
 
Premium Features