project sled almost complete

jskattum606 · Oct 4, 2009

Well, it all started with a sawsall and some head scratching. I welded tabs on the tunnel, then rivited the tabs to the bulk head. Ill take some pics when i get the chance and post them. I hope they hold. thats is the only part im kinda worried about. It sould be alright, it also get strength from the two braces that go back to the middle of the tunnel. This is kinda my prototype, i want to build a titanium on next year once i find the week links on this one and use carbon fiber panneling

NINJIN · Oct 4, 2009

can you elaborate on the rain gutter material i am building a similar tube tunnel (the build is in the deepsnow section) and i am still undecided on what to skin it with. that looks good and sounds cheap.

jskattum606 · Oct 4, 2009

Yeah, I am a rain gutter contractor, so it was easy to get and cheap. I get my stuff from Lansing Building Products in Billings, MT. Just call around in your area and you should be able to find a supplier. It comes in 11 7/8 width and as long as you want. I got 15 feet for my project didnt use it all but its nice to have extra. good luck

NINJIN · Oct 4, 2009

is it plastic or aluminum? sorry for the questions i am just really trying to figure out what to use that doesnt cost an arm and a leg

Nikolai · Oct 4, 2009

jskattum606 said:
yep. Stock tunnel bare weighed 32 pounds and i got this one finished at 18 lbs. 14lbs. weight loss not bad for my first go around. yes its chromoloy .035 x .75. got all the tubbing for 320 shipped. the black background is rain gutter material .027 and only cost $12. I did have to buy the new tig welder, but i can use it for everything. Nikolai, where did you get those good looking switches?

Local aviation store. They were around $20 apiece + the waterproof covers. I'm sure you could find some online. Just make sure you know exactly what you need i.e. momentary, single/double pull, single/dual throw, on/on, on/off/on, ect. ect.

wildcard28 · Oct 4, 2009

jskattum606 said:
yep. Stock tunnel bare weighed 32 pounds and i got this one finished at 18 lbs. 14lbs. weight loss not bad for my first go around. yes its chromoloy .035 x .75. got all the tubbing for 320 shipped. the black background is rain gutter material .027 and only cost $12. I did have to buy the new tig welder, but i can use it for everything. Nikolai, where did you get those good looking switches?

I have been reading alot about welding chromoly tubing, for the wall thickness and size of tubing you used , could that all be welded with a mig welder? I know some say it isn`t as pure of a weld but what is your experience and opinions on welding a project like yours with a mig welder?

I have read where alot of poeple say you don`t really have to preheat and post heat until the material is about 1/8inch or thicker is this correct?

I have a Hobart mig welder and run stargon gas and .030 wire

Thanks , Darren

jskattum606 · Oct 4, 2009

wildcard28 said:
I have been reading alot about welding chromoly tubing, for the wall thickness and size of tubing you used , could that all be welded with a mig welder? I know some say it isn`t as pure of a weld but what is your experience and opinions on welding a project like yours with a mig welder?

I have read where alot of poeple say you don`t really have to preheat and post heat until the material is about 1/8inch or thicker is this correct?

I have a Hobart mig welder and run stargon gas and .030 wire

Thanks , Darren

I never tried it with a mig welder. I got a tig welder so im not sure there. The pre heat and post heat i agree with that. Once you get 1/8 " or thicker, I would say pre heat and post heat is advisable. We will see later this winter when the sled is a twisted, broken heap or a good solid piece still. Ill keep you updated. I can say it does seam to weld about the same as mild steel. It would be worth a try

Wheel House Motorsports · Oct 4, 2009

jskattum606 said:
I never tried it with a mig welder. I got a tig welder so im not sure there. The pre heat and post heat i agree with that. Once you get 1/8 " or thicker, I would say pre heat and post heat is advisable. We will see later this winter when the sled is a twisted, broken heap or a good solid piece still. Ill keep you updated. I can say it does seam to weld about the same as mild steel. It would be worth a try

come riding with me and you will for sure end up with a scrap metal peice of sled!!

i really want to cehck that thing out in person, throw it in your truck next time your in bozo and drop by! as for the T900 project... i was thinkin, and i had some ideas...

wildcard28 · Oct 5, 2009

jskattum606 said:
I never tried it with a mig welder. I got a tig welder so im not sure there. The pre heat and post heat i agree with that. Once you get 1/8 " or thicker, I would say pre heat and post heat is advisable. We will see later this winter when the sled is a twisted, broken heap or a good solid piece still. Ill keep you updated. I can say it does seam to weld about the same as mild steel. It would be worth a try

Great Build

How much tubing did you order total to build that tunnel?
And how did you bend the chromoly tubing?

Builds like these are the most interesting, when someone takes the effort to tackle it them selves

Very Good Work, Thanks. Wildcard28

shortstop20 · Oct 5, 2009

907to406 said:
"also want to get rid of all of the swithches on the handle bars. Anyone attemped converting to rocker swithches on the dash for warmers and lights?"

I put mine right below the rpm gauge. just took it right off the bars and ran the wires underneath and cut hole in the dash (not bigger than the face plate of the switch casing) then just mark where the bolt holes on the face plate and drill the holes and use stock screws to mount it there. Looks super clean and took me about 5 minutes to do. Another common way to get them off the handle bars is mounth them to your riser but not all risers will work.

Pics?

jskattum606 · Oct 5, 2009

wildcard28 said:
Great Build

How much tubing did you order total to build that tunnel?
And how did you bend the chromoly tubing?

Builds like these are the most interesting, when someone takes the effort to tackle it them selves

Very Good Work, Thanks. Wildcard28

I ordered 80' of tubing and used about 65' of it. Bending it was a different story. i got a electrical conduit bender from a fellow contractor and tried several different tecniques. The best bends i got i used for the rear bumper and ended up filling the tube with sand, welded both ends shut and then bent it. Turned out very good and looks mandrel bent. I kinked plenty of times trying though. Thanks for the intrest and all of the complements.

jskattum606 · Oct 5, 2009

NINJIN said:
is it plastic or aluminum? sorry for the questions i am just really trying to figure out what to use that doesnt cost an arm and a leg

No problem, I used .027 X 11 7/8 aluminum gutter material for a 5" K style gutter machine. If you make a few calls in your area to local building suppliers, they should point you in the right direction. You might also be able to get material for a 6" gutter machine that would make it a few inches wider. Then what i did is just rivited it to the back of the tubing from the inside of the tunnel. Let me know if i can get you any more info. Good luck

jskattum606 · Oct 7, 2009

Someone wanted a picture of how it was mounted. I welded tabs on the bottom of the front tube, rivited them, also lft the aluminum long on the bulkhead sides ad riveted there too. cant see those though

Supplicate · Oct 8, 2009

The only thing that bugs me about this build is your running boards. Did you test the spacing between the cross rails by trying to insery your booted foot? That would be a deal breaker for me, just asking to blow a knee out in a wreck.

Other then that, friggen awesome.

CONN*RIDER · Oct 8, 2009

supply

Who did you use for your chromoly supplier. Do they have a website?

jskattum606 · Oct 8, 2009

I found the best deal at www.airpartsinc.com

907to406 · Oct 8, 2009

Seems like the running boards would be slippery when wet being that they are rounded. You should lay some grip tape or maybe even some 1/4 inch self tapping hex screws for traction.

Wheel House Motorsports · Oct 9, 2009

I was thinkin the same thing... but it sorta looked like the main rails had something, but it will DEFINATELY need somethin or its gonna be like riding a giant slip n slide...

oh well, all easy fixes.. go out and hit all this new snow we got last night and lets see how it works!

jskattum606 · Oct 9, 2009

Supplicate said:
The only thing that bugs me about this build is your running boards. Did you test the spacing between the cross rails by trying to insery your booted foot? That would be a deal breaker for me, just asking to blow a knee out in a wreck.

Other then that, friggen awesome.

you just gotta be good

jskattum606 · Oct 9, 2009

Ski-Dooin it said:
I was thinkin the same thing... but it sorta looked like the main rails had something, but it will DEFINATELY need somethin or its gonna be like riding a giant slip n slide...

oh well, all easy fixes.. go out and hit all this new snow we got last night and lets see how it works!

I welded set screws on each rail, i think there is 18 on each side. Its gonna work great. And yes, i did check and my boots will not fit in the holes so no worries.

project sled almost complete

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