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G4 850 Injector/TPS Wire Failure

snow4shover

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Dec 13, 2007
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Belgrade, Mt
Just wanted to let everyone know there has been reports of 850s breaking the booster injector wires (Stock OEM THROTTLE INJECTORS). The symptoms are missing or hesitation on throttle opening. You may also see an Engine light when this happens.

Anyone that needs parts to fix these problems please feel free to reach out to Dobeck Performance.

They set my local dealer (Summit Motorsports) up today with replace plugs for the injector, terminals and seals. They have ran in to 2 or 3 sleds with these issues so far. They also had 1 sled that needed to have the TPS plug repaired.

Thanks
Chris Shover
 
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madmax

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Salt lake city
Just wanted to let everyone know there has been reports of 850s breaking the booster injector wires. The symptoms are missing or hesitation on throttle opening. You may also see an Engine when this happens.

Anyone that needs parts to fix these problems please feel free to reach out to Dobeck Performance.

They set my local dealer (Summit Motorsports) up today with replace plugs for the injector, terminals and seals. They have ran in to 2 or 3 sleds with these issues so far. They also had 1 sled that need to have the TPS plug repaired.

Thanks
Chris Shover

Seen this on two sleds now. Both were the pto injector wire. One threw a check engine light the other did not. This is the engine code it throws...

 
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Blk88GT

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This is not only the mountain sleds, my friend had the same thing happen to his renegade with less than 35 miles on it.
 
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paulharris

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Dec 12, 2007
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wow, how is this happening? it ripped the wires right out, is the harness too short or something?
 

madmax

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Must be a problem in the crimping process when they manufacture the harness. Just glad it's a plug that's easy to get to and to fix.
 

snow4shover

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Belgrade, Mt
This was after I pulled on the injector connector. The problem is the zip ties that hold the harness are too tight and it pulls on the wire. The easy way to find the problem is to lightly pull on the connector and see if the insulation on the wire starts to stretch which will cause it to change color a bit.

To fix the one in the photo I proceeded to cut the wire right after the rub through. Then striped about 1/4" of wire insulation off the wire. Once this was done I pushed a new seal on and crimped on new terminals. Then clipped the zip ties which gave me enough wire to plug the injector back in.
 
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pyxle

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Jan 27, 2008
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Maple Valley, WA
Must be a problem in the crimping process when they manufacture the harness. Just glad it's a plug that's easy to get to and to fix.

I agree that it is in the crimping process. We had countless 2008 800R Powertek's with the exact same issue (could be the same wire color actually) at the RAVE solenoid connectors. CEL would illuminate and the wire was actually broken inside the insulation about 1/4" above the connector.
 

sledhead_24_7

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The 2017’s some had issues. There is some sort of service bulletin recall for that issue on the 17’s I believe.
 

Dynamo^Joe

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Happened to mine last January
https://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/1486906-850-missingstumbling/?p=22571803
The bare wires touched each other, grounding out, malfunctioning the auxiliary injector.

The wires in the picture are now stripped, ready to pull the wire prongs out of the plug to remove and replace the original wire back onto the prongs. Then put the ty-raps in a different location to prevent vibration chafing.

I also posted this Apr 25th last season
https://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/1536602-a-complete-miss-when-idleing/?p=22066121
I have had the check engine light come on twice this season.

First episode was the wiring harness going to the PTO fuel injector plug on the throttle body. Mechanic had snip the tyraps off at the plug, then cut the wires from the plug. Cut the worn-through wires off and stripped the wire ends. Pulled the prongs out of the injector plug and re-fastened them to new stripped wire ends. Shoved the prongs back in the plug - Secondary injector started to work again.

Second episode recently; My dash was beeping "check engine" and the coolant temperature gage on the left side was going blank. The whole left side of the dash screen was blanking out, repeatedly as long as I was going through bumps. If i rode the sled slowly on a flat surface, check engine light would go away; gage works again. Start going through bumps; again left side of screen shuts off - no idiot lights. I had the temperature gage running on the middle of the screen and the temperature would bounce from 40c to 55c to -40 to -44, then "check engine" (This is the second 2017 sled the mechanic has experienced the same "feature"...haha). He pulled the airbox to get to some wires on the ECU and they were worn through bare. Snipped the wires, made mechanical connections with them. My sled runs good again. Dash working.

Both situations the "zip strip" or "Ty-raps" were tight enough they were squeezing the wires and the vibration from the sled running chafed the insulation coating right off the wires.

My mechanic friend has been telling his experiences on the private corporate BRP "mechanics" forum where mechanics go to talk about how to resolve problems. I bet your local BRP mechanic might be able to identify your facts, finding them on their forum too.
 
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mntnguide

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So with this thread being revived... yesterday i had to leave my sled in the wyoming backcountry.. after riding most the day and being far from cell service and home...i hit a log but the only damage done was a bend in the front bumper, but upon starting the sled again after a courtesy roll it was throwing a check engine light and will not let the throttle engage. The code was PO 123, and after towing it till after dark and deciding we needed to leave it and come back for it this weekend, got back to a warm truck and eventually cell service to find the code relates to the TPS seeing higher than 5 volts. So im thinking maybe the ground wire pulled out or broke possibly? Anyone have experience with this and is it possible to fix in the field without a buds computer? Otherwise we will have to use block and tackle to tow it all the way out as it is not a trail system and is still a long ways from home. Appreciate any thought and input anyone might have. We have the mechanical knowledge to do it in the field, just not sure if the code will go away without a buds computer? Sled is a 2017 850 summit with silber turbo, but turbo has been flawless and this appears to be related to the TPS.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
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