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  #1  
Old 09-01-2016, 12:20 PM
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Default Installing an X3 track on my Pro RMK with chaincase (with pics)

I'm almost finished up installing an X3 track on my 2012 RMK Assault and thought I should post up some pics for anyone interested in doing the same to their sled. This sled has a chaincase. For 2013 and newer belt drive RMKs, obviously no chaincase mods necessary.

Out with the old 5.1 and in with the new X3. I picked up the track, drivers and anti-stab from Tracks USA. They had a smokin' deal going on last spring.


Strippin' the sled down:


To get the clearance necessary, you can either do a drop and roll or just get 7 tooth Avid drivers(stock is 8). I chose extrovert drivers, since they essentially eliminate ratcheting and won't ice up like the involute(stock style) drivers sometimes do. Avid has a good writeup on their site on how to install these.


The chaincase is glued on 2012 and newer chaincase sleds. There's a good thread going on the Lords adhesive used. Essentially, you heat it up from inside the tunnel until the glue 'pops' free. Definitely glue back on, but don't use a regular epoxy, unless you don't ever want to get it off again. The Lords adhesive is specifically designed to come loose at a certain temperature.

Also, when removing the front torx bolt of the chaincase, heat it well or you run the risk of breaking it.

I had a local shop weld the case for me. Not the most beautiful welding job, but it'll work. I recommend leaving the bearings in the case as it's being welded so that the bearing pockets don't go oblong from the heat. Obviously replace the bearings and seals with new ones afterward.


Ya gotta cut out the chunk shown in the pic. It's not an exact science, but basically cut from where the bolt flange ends on the bottom of the case, up to the half way mark of the bump out on top. Grind it flush and replace with a 1/8" plate or less. The new plate doesn't need to be flush with the back of the chaincase. It can bump out the plate thickness.


Pic with the chaincase reinstalled and drivers in. I highly recommend you put the drivers in BEFORE you reinstall the chaincase. By doing this, you eliminate the risk of dinging up your new drive shaft seal that you just installed on the back of the chaincase.


With extrovert drivers, you gotta cut the tips of the rails off for clearance. But when you do this, you must install an anti-stab. Does something look bent to you?


The anti-stab wheels mount where the old limiter strap bar was. I measured 3/4" from the axis of the antistab hole and cut away.


Then install the anti-stab. Trim the hyfax to fit and be sure to put a 45 degree chamfer on the front of the hyfax. I still need to trim one of the hyfax in this pic. If you have only one limiter strap, add another one.


Next up is cleaning and greasing the skid. I also put a 210# spring on the RTS. I wanted a 230# spring, but I got a good deal on the 210#. We'll see how it works.

Clutching is after that. Thinking of doing 62gm Belly Busters with stock spring in the primary, Black/Purple(160-240) spring in the secondary, with teflon washer and 60-42-36 helix. Let me know what you think about that setup.
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  #2  
Old 09-02-2016, 07:12 AM
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Dropped the skid in last night, after going thru it and greasing it up. Found one seized bearing on an upper idler.

Just a word of advice when putting in, or taking out a skid: Always put the sled on the side and let gravity help you. Don't try to put a skid in with the sled on a stand. It's nearly impossible.

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Old 09-02-2016, 08:38 AM
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Is the axys the same in that the rails need to be trimmed to run an X3 track?
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Old 09-02-2016, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sledheader View Post
Is the axys the same in that the rails need to be trimmed to run an X3 track?
Only if you buy extrovert drivers. Avid makes center drive drivers too. So you can get that, along with the center punched track. If you have a belt drive, this is all you would need for the setup:

Track: 156 x 15 x 3 Part# 9270MSE or 162 x 15 x 3 Part# 9220MSE

Drivers: 7 tooth x 3.0" pitch for Polaris center ported track
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Old 09-02-2016, 09:29 AM
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Your local welding shop needs a lot more practice on aluminum. That is just hideous! I've never laid down a bead that ugly, but If I ever did a weld that ugly, I could not / would not charge you for it.
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Old 09-02-2016, 12:57 PM
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Lol! Yeah, you can imagine my reaction when I picked it up. All excited and then.....oh......well.......I suppose that'll work........

It's a good weld, just not pretty. It's the last thing I'll be concerned about as I'm rippin' along the side of a mountain:-)
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Old 09-03-2016, 08:17 PM
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Ok, question for the X3 gurus. I went to tension the track and ran outta room. So, do I get 8" idlers or I've read a tiny bit of info about a Carl's recommendation of moving the front skid mounting hole back 3/4". Apparently, it helps trenching issues and takes up the space to allow proper tensioning of the track.

Is this still a good option or do I get bigger wheels? If I move the mount hole, does anything else need to be done to the skid to get full travel? Anybody done this? I'll call Carl's on Tuesday but hoping for a sooner answer.
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Old 09-04-2016, 11:17 AM
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Moving the front without moving the rear??

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Old 09-04-2016, 02:40 PM
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Good write-up!

Stock track was a 155 I take it (since it was an Assault), what is the 3" track length? Wondering why you ran out of room to tension it up...

So if I were to decide to go 3", and ran involute style drivers, no antistab mod necessary. I see Avid sells those.

The icing-up problem with stock drivers, I had this happen for the first time last season in sticky snow conditions, on the Dragon (riding Dragons since 2009), and it was not the involute part of it that caused me and my buddy the problem it was that center driver and probably the lack of room between it and the involute drivers... that is where the ice built up, until it got high enough to interfere with the drivers. Some people cut the center driver out and experience no ratcheting. I might still do that. The old school sleds like my 99 700 RMK and 2003 ZX Doo never iced up and they all had the involute setup.

I noticed on the 2013 and newer Pros I looked at, that the center driver is narrower, which would give the snow less to cling to. They look like your center driver. Don't know if that helped a lot, but I can say my wife's 2013 Pro was not having the same problem my buddy and my Dragons were in the same snow conditions...
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Old 09-04-2016, 02:55 PM
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Old 09-04-2016, 06:04 PM
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Old 09-04-2016, 06:05 PM
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Old 09-04-2016, 09:30 PM
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Old 09-04-2016, 11:01 PM
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Old 09-07-2016, 02:24 PM
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Old 09-20-2016, 02:48 PM
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Old 09-26-2016, 08:30 AM
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Old 09-27-2016, 09:45 AM
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Old 09-27-2016, 12:13 PM
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:39 PM
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Old 09-27-2016, 08:20 PM
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Old 10-03-2016, 11:43 AM
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Old 10-03-2016, 07:43 PM
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Old 10-05-2016, 07:21 AM
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