Cleaning oxygen sensors ?

SLY · Jan 13, 2010

Has anyone had any luck cleaning the sensors. Only lasted about 700km. I know they don't like leaded fuel (Av or race gas) but wondering if anyone has had any luck cleaning them. Or is there a better sensor that can replace the Bosch 5 wire for a wideband.

SylvanLaker · Jan 13, 2010

I was told to clean it with a torch and a soft wire brush... I need to clean mine too..

Givemeaboost · Jan 13, 2010

I've often wondered that since these sensors go bad because of lead in the fuel would it be possible to clean one with some gun cleaning solvent or is this a different kind of lead. Ken....

zebiraross · Jan 13, 2010

Wire brush works well.

SLY · Jan 13, 2010

I have cleaned regular sensors in the past by burning them off. The difference is these wideband sensors seem to be shielded so you cannot get to the sensor surface. Also, I think the sensor is ceramic instead of metal. I might try using some carbon removing chemicals and some intake deposit remover and then put it through an ultrasonic tank. Nothing to lose at this point as it hasn't lasted very long. Just thought there might be a known method out there with so many guys running widebands and race fuel.

wienerwater · Jan 15, 2010

Spray the crap out if it, with carb/brake cleaner and get as clean as you can.Wire brush it to get anything else if you want, then take a torch to it. Get it red hot, brush more if you can or need. It is just the torch will get it hotter then the exhuast will normally, and basically you are burning it clean.
This will also work on your vehiclesO2 sensors as well.

M5- · Jan 16, 2010

The last two I toasted rattled when I took them out so I think the ceramic inside let go. I think my current one is also on the way out as it keeps flipping to full lean when I know the sled isn't going lean.

M5

Pastor · Jan 16, 2010

Mine says that if you run the snowmobile with the probe in the exhaust and without the probe being plugged into the brain and the battery hooked up (power being supplied) you will immediately ruin the probe.

I have a brand new probe that is not working because I learned this the hard way.

So I am very interested in how you would go about cleaning the probe using a torch and brush.

If you remove the probe from the unit it seems like it would be the same as having it in the exhaust but not hooked up to the brain.

Give me some deatails, steps.... etc. If you would please.

1.
2.
3.

Thank you in advance.

wienerwater · Jan 17, 2010

Not sure what the brain is doing with it all, but cleaning it off and burning any carbon buildup etc should not kill it.All you want is it to be hotter then it would normally get i in the exhaust system.

BigFish BC · Jan 17, 2010

some tips i found.
http://www.articlealley.com/article_595932_31.html

carb & brake cleaner i have heard work to.:beer;

BigFish BC · Jan 17, 2010

M5- said:
The last two I toasted rattled when I took them out so I think the ceramic inside let go. I think my current one is also on the way out as it keeps flipping to full lean when I know the sled isn't going lean.

M5

ha ha mines doing the same my ngk one lasted forever not impressed with the this one.

wienerwater · Jan 17, 2010

iamvector said:
some tips i found.
http://www.articlealley.com/article_595932_31.html

carb & brake cleaner i have heard work to.:beer;

Gee, thought I read that somewhere in here? LOL
The Bosch brand seem to also be as good as NGK, I think it will be different on many sleds as to actual mounting point, fuel type etc that will vary the life of them.

SylvanLaker · Jan 18, 2010

Has anyone had their Air / fuel sensor plug up from running AV Fuel?? JC as I am switching fuel in hopes to eliminate the sensor getting jammed up..

wienerwater · Jan 18, 2010

Have heard of basic life of sensor being shorter, again from the lead content.But then, have heard the same lifespan from race fuel, any lead will shorten the life.Thats why I set my A/F with unleaded, making sure I have no false or irregular reading beforehand.Also, did this staring with a new sensor and then switching.If it goes whacky later, I still have an idea I am in the correct range either way.

SLY · Jan 18, 2010

SylvanLaker said:
Has anyone had their Air / fuel sensor plug up from running AV Fuel?? JC as I am switching fuel in hopes to eliminate the sensor getting jammed up..

Running Av/premium and straight Av and mine is toast in under 1000km

SLY · Jan 20, 2010

Cleaned it as much as I could. Cleaned off the light deposits, cleaned it with carbon remover, cleaned it with brake cleaner, cleaned it in the ultrasonic tank between each of the other cleanings. After I was done I even tried it with the brake clean on the rag test and seemed good. Re-installed it and it works for about 30 secs, then the readings are all over the place so I guess that was a waste of time. Will try a new one tomorrow

BigFish BC · Jan 20, 2010

SLY said:
Cleaned it as much as I could. Cleaned off the light deposits, cleaned it with carbon remover, cleaned it with brake cleaner, cleaned it in the ultrasonic tank between each of the other cleanings. After I was done I even tried it with the brake clean on the rag test and seemed good. Re-installed it and it works for about 30 secs, then the readings are all over the place so I guess that was a waste of time. Will try a new one tomorrow

probably cracked the ceramic then they are toast.:beer;

SLY · Jan 20, 2010

New sensor works like a charm. While researching this sensor I found information that it's exhaust gas temp is supposed to be <1300 degrees and the sensor housing is supposed to be <900 or it will have a significant affect on the life of the sensor. The make a heatsink bung adapter but is more money than a sensor. Anyone know the temps we are at? or using a heatsink adapter?

EZmoney · Jan 20, 2010

SLY said:
Cleaned it as much as I could. Cleaned off the light deposits, cleaned it with carbon remover, cleaned it with brake cleaner, cleaned it in the ultrasonic tank between each of the other cleanings. After I was done I even tried it with the brake clean on the rag test and seemed good. Re-installed it and it works for about 30 secs, then the readings are all over the place so I guess that was a waste of time. Will try a new one tomorrow :roll eyes:

Sly i had one doing the same as what your describing here after i cleaned mine. I had to put it back in the sled just to seal the bung because i could not find a replacement in town and had to order one.When i was warming my sled up at the mountain it was reading all wrong but about 5 min. into the ride it started working and lasted almost the rest of last season.Not sure why it did that, maybe the heat and pressure in the exhaust blew the rest of the crap left on it off? If yours is easy to change out like mine is it would almost be worth trying it one more time just to see?

Cleaning oxygen sensors ?

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