I
there are so many turbo nyrtos out there but you never hear of enginge failure, belt failure , chaincase etc. Whats the weak link once you turn up the boost and what should i watch for ?
Whats the weak link on turbo nytros?
- Thread starter IQ900
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N
I think it was that my cheeks hurt from permagrin!!
The sled itself never really had any issues. There was/is the odd issue with some of the turbo kits. The stock skid in the 08/09 models will not work with boost. Some people didn't like the ski's, and there was some subframes that tweaked a bit on the 08's when you hit something hard (tree/rock). IMO other than that they just work. Oh ya and my high/low beam switch is missing.
The sled itself never really had any issues. There was/is the odd issue with some of the turbo kits. The stock skid in the 08/09 models will not work with boost. Some people didn't like the ski's, and there was some subframes that tweaked a bit on the 08's when you hit something hard (tree/rock). IMO other than that they just work. Oh ya and my high/low beam switch is missing.
0
In my opinion the weak links are
The install, undoubtably, when a kit is installed buy one of the turbo guru's there are a lot less problems
The owner, mechanical sympathy and knowing what not to do is very important, some people can wreck anything
The electrical mod's, these things just are not the same level of reliability as stock
There are few exceptions like header's cracking etc depending on boost level and brand of kit but that stuff should be expected on a mod
The quality of most of the kit's out there are actually pretty good and constantly improving
The install, undoubtably, when a kit is installed buy one of the turbo guru's there are a lot less problems
The owner, mechanical sympathy and knowing what not to do is very important, some people can wreck anything
The electrical mod's, these things just are not the same level of reliability as stock
There are few exceptions like header's cracking etc depending on boost level and brand of kit but that stuff should be expected on a mod
The quality of most of the kit's out there are actually pretty good and constantly improving
L.O.F.T. Lack of F___ing Talent
Rider error. LOL
There is always something small here or there.. chains, headers, or any wear parts. it just adds up quicker when you turn the boost WAY up.
But with simple maintence and just looking over the sled once a week will take care of a lot of things..
Rider error. LOL
There is always something small here or there.. chains, headers, or any wear parts. it just adds up quicker when you turn the boost WAY up.
But with simple maintence and just looking over the sled once a week will take care of a lot of things..
T
watch for this
Fuel. Run good fuel and don't cheap out. You have to carry extra as well cause when you get into the boost your fuel will disappear fairly quickly. You need additional venting to get rid of the extra heat under the hood. Here's one little tidbit if your ever in a situation where you may be riding through wild grass , hay land ,stubble or in my case all of the above...bits and pieces of that will get thrown through the gaps around your header pipes where they pass through into the tunnel area above the track. This material will sit there and accumulate around your header and just below your fuel tank separated only by a thin piece of heat reflective material and aluminum. Eventually this material will dry out and then at some point it will be a very high risk to ignite and burn(believe me) and cause all sorts of pandimonium as you(or the builder of your turbo kit) attemp to extinguish the fire before it gets to the tank and burns the whole bloody shop down. The solution I came up with was to stuff steel wool around the pipes and into the gaps around them where they pass into the tunnel.
Fuel. Run good fuel and don't cheap out. You have to carry extra as well cause when you get into the boost your fuel will disappear fairly quickly. You need additional venting to get rid of the extra heat under the hood. Here's one little tidbit if your ever in a situation where you may be riding through wild grass , hay land ,stubble or in my case all of the above...bits and pieces of that will get thrown through the gaps around your header pipes where they pass through into the tunnel area above the track. This material will sit there and accumulate around your header and just below your fuel tank separated only by a thin piece of heat reflective material and aluminum. Eventually this material will dry out and then at some point it will be a very high risk to ignite and burn(believe me) and cause all sorts of pandimonium as you(or the builder of your turbo kit) attemp to extinguish the fire before it gets to the tank and burns the whole bloody shop down. The solution I came up with was to stuff steel wool around the pipes and into the gaps around them where they pass into the tunnel.
W
This is the #1 cause of sled failure, and it is very common.
Einstein had a theory about this phenomenon, it has to do with the thickness of the wallet and the depth of the talent being inversely propotional.
Install for sure. A poor install or someone cutting corners (even when they think they are not) will cause you nothing but trouble.
Install Issues
1. Header Bolts (use proper bolts with locking devices on them) This is the hardest place to determine a boost leak especially if you go with a mid mount.
2. Relays. Don't cheap out here. Get "Painless" relays that are water tight.
3. Electrical connections- use dielectric grease on all of them including your stock yami connections.
4. Don't do any motor work yourself even if you think you know what you are doing. These Yamis have more checks and safety features and sensors than you would believe. Ex, Lots of folks can do the cam timing but most folks don't know that the timing chain tensioner is hydraulic and run by the motor oil pressure. It also makes a very distinctive sound when it does not release correctly when you first start the sled up after doing the timing. Mess with this and you can buy some new pistons and valves and possibly a new head.
5. Make sure your intercooler is stout. Check the welds and check it often when riding, a crack along the weld is hard to see and will cause the sled to run like sh*t.
6. If your not running an after market tunnel with a cooler kit do not remove your radiator. These sleds turboed need to keep cool.
7. Gap your plugs properly and do not turn the sled key on and off too many times. Everytime you turn that key all the way off then back on the injectors spit fuel and you will flood it out and foul those plugs. Changing plugs on a turbo sled is not fun because of the lack of space in there.
Other stuff
8. Get subframe stiffeners put underneath the sled.
9. Upgrade your drivers
10. Get good hi-faxes and check them often. You can break a drive shaft if your hi-faxes get to metal on metal. They will stick and the power of these sleds will twist that shaft and break it. Trust me I know.
11. Upgrade your suspension and track because you will never get full enjoyment out of that power with out them.
There is plenty more but I'm tired of typing.
Install Issues
1. Header Bolts (use proper bolts with locking devices on them) This is the hardest place to determine a boost leak especially if you go with a mid mount.
2. Relays. Don't cheap out here. Get "Painless" relays that are water tight.
3. Electrical connections- use dielectric grease on all of them including your stock yami connections.
4. Don't do any motor work yourself even if you think you know what you are doing. These Yamis have more checks and safety features and sensors than you would believe. Ex, Lots of folks can do the cam timing but most folks don't know that the timing chain tensioner is hydraulic and run by the motor oil pressure. It also makes a very distinctive sound when it does not release correctly when you first start the sled up after doing the timing. Mess with this and you can buy some new pistons and valves and possibly a new head.
5. Make sure your intercooler is stout. Check the welds and check it often when riding, a crack along the weld is hard to see and will cause the sled to run like sh*t.
6. If your not running an after market tunnel with a cooler kit do not remove your radiator. These sleds turboed need to keep cool.
7. Gap your plugs properly and do not turn the sled key on and off too many times. Everytime you turn that key all the way off then back on the injectors spit fuel and you will flood it out and foul those plugs. Changing plugs on a turbo sled is not fun because of the lack of space in there.
Other stuff
8. Get subframe stiffeners put underneath the sled.
9. Upgrade your drivers
10. Get good hi-faxes and check them often. You can break a drive shaft if your hi-faxes get to metal on metal. They will stick and the power of these sleds will twist that shaft and break it. Trust me I know.
11. Upgrade your suspension and track because you will never get full enjoyment out of that power with out them.
There is plenty more but I'm tired of typing.
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the only weak link that i have found the ME. Great motor just watch you temp and you wont have any problems.. if you dont then you will have problems..
J
dont over boost and dont cheap out on fuel!
W
If you do there are some good fuel addatives out there that will help bring the octane up...
S
I think it was that my cheeks hurt from permagrin!!
The sled itself never really had any issues. There was/is the odd issue with some of the turbo kits. The stock skid in the 08/09 models will not work with boost. Some people didn't like the ski's, and there was some subframes that tweaked a bit on the 08's when you hit something hard (tree/rock). IMO other than that they just work. Oh ya and my high/low beam switch is missing.
You may know already but just in case, you can get that high/low button without buying the whole switch. The button is $10. It must be the switch position or else the way I ride, I have broken a few myself, LOL
I
nytro
thanx for all the info. I got a 2010 163 nytro with the boondocker kit being installed as we speak....
thanx for all the info. I got a 2010 163 nytro with the boondocker kit being installed as we speak....
S
I noticed the 2010 has a little extra bracing on the header too. Should help lessen the flexing at the connectors.
P
Install is weak link to a lot of turbo sleds for years
Good post Motleyone!! Sounds like you have some trouble and education is key for do it yourself guys.
There has been some really good installs done at home too and we have pick up a some good ideas as well.
Not all dealers do good installs and some are horrible!
Good feedback to us builders is important so we can address any problems.
Biggest thing would be not taking your time to do it right the first time and not asking questions when it could be very important.
There is no stupid questions only stupid people that don't ask questions!
I would rather help a guy out so he can have a great day of sledding then a unhappy guy bashing this sport.
We always try to help out any sledder with what ever supercharger or turbo kit he has.
Going to be a great winter guys and everyone is waiting for snow!
Good post Motleyone!! Sounds like you have some trouble and education is key for do it yourself guys.
There has been some really good installs done at home too and we have pick up a some good ideas as well.
Not all dealers do good installs and some are horrible!
Good feedback to us builders is important so we can address any problems.
Biggest thing would be not taking your time to do it right the first time and not asking questions when it could be very important.
There is no stupid questions only stupid people that don't ask questions!
I would rather help a guy out so he can have a great day of sledding then a unhappy guy bashing this sport.
We always try to help out any sledder with what ever supercharger or turbo kit he has.
Going to be a great winter guys and everyone is waiting for snow!
the boondocker kit is a good kit. but the box they run i think personally isnt the best.
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